Filtration preferences

[DejaBlue]

When I first found my interest for Discus, there were no websites like this!
As I find myself digging out my old equipment for another round of Discus keeping, I want to have the freshest information I can find to retool my stuff.

So far, all I am commited to is a 55 gallon glass tank and stand!

In the past I had good luck with systems which were probably not the best to get the most from this fish...maybe the fine posters found here can provide me with a good overview of prefered setups, etc.
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[Carol_Roberts]

Simple is best. I like 55 gallons for a grow out tank.

I use an Aqua Clear 500. You can purchase these for $38.95 at http://www.aquacave.com/Aqua%20Clear.htm The AC500 comes with a big sponge and carbon. Don't use the carbon. Instead purchase another AC500 sponge for about $4.79.

I highly reccommend a prefilter sponge on the intake tube of the AC500. You can make this yourself from any fine pore sponge. Just slip it over the intake tube to prevent uneaten food and feces from being drawn into the AC500. Rinse the prefilter sponge everyday under the faucet to remove debris.

Right now there isn't a consensus on the best heater. Many of us have had failures with our ebo jaggers. I still have some ebos, Tronics and am trying two of the new Stainless steel Via Aqua heaters. This Pro Heat with the LCD temperature display will be the next one I try. It's $44.95 http://www.aquacave.com/FreePage21.htm

Aqua Cave is a sponsor of this site and has a banner at the bottom of the page. They also carry sponge filters if you prefer them to power filters.

For grow outs I reccomend a bare bottom tank. My babies are all in pH 7.8 and GH 11. You don't need to worry about soft water unitl they are adults and you want eggs to hatch. You don't want to try to match my water parameters or water parameters you've rad in a book. Your tap water is probably just fine. You may have to age it (that means to agitate it so the pH stabilizes) and warm it in a storage barrel. Pond pumps and hoses will save your back during the daily water changes.

p.s. There is tons of information here. Read through the water section next.

[DejaBlue]

Thanks for your response.
The good news is that I already have an AC500.
The last time I used it I had removed the carbon, but replaced it with a bag of peat...is that a good idea?

I will decide what substrate to use over time...what is the time frame for cycling in your opinion?

[Carol_Roberts]

Peat isn't needed.
I like the sponges - rinse and reuse for ever (or almost forever).

Fishless cycle using pure ammonia at 5ppm takes 4 - 6 weeks (same as with dither fish, but don't have to worry about pathogens). There are some new starter cultures on the market that may speed up process if they are fresh. If you are interested in the fishless cycle let me know and I'll explain it for you.

[DejaBlue]

Hey...less is more, and that's cool by me!
I would appreciate your info on the fishless cycle.
I did plan to have Cardinals or Neons just to please my kid! ;D

[Carol_Roberts]

Buy pure ammonia (no lemon scent or sudsy) from a store (like Walmart). Also buy ammonia, nitrIte and nitrAte test kits.

Set up tank, filter and heater. Fill with dechlorinated water. Add enough ammonia to tank to read 4 or 5 ppm on the test kit.

Test the tank every few days. AS the ammonia drops add a bit. Keep it between 3 - 5 ppm. More is not better. After a couple of weeks ammonia will drop and nitrIte will rise. Continue testing water every few days. Keep a bit of ammonia in tank to feed growing bacteria colony. Don't over do it. When nitIte spikes and starts dropping you will begin to register nitrAte and cycle is nearly complete. Nitrates will be sky high so prior to adding fish do a 90% water change with DECHLORINATED water.

[jeep]

I just bought a Pro Heat I from Albert and I love it. It's better than any glass heater I've had. The only draw-back is that the temp. guage is very easy to adjust and could easily get knocked out of position. That in itself could justify the added cost of the Pro Heat II.

Too soon to rate over-all durability...

[DejaBlue]

I will definately be shopping for a great heater. My other points of interest will be testing equipment. I am tempted by a digital electronic sort of tester...any feedback on their effectiveness?

I realize also that Cardinal Tetras are a seasonal fish...does anyone know of a breeder of these fish?

[jeep]

Hanna Instruments make a really nice "all in one" meter for about $130.

Ted sells them, or at least he did.

http://forum.simplydiscus.com//index...d=5644;start=0

[dm]

I think a few Cardinals are bred in Florida but most are wild caught. You would probably be hard pressed to find domestic Cardinals. Neons might be a little easier. Also Cardinals can be hard to acclamate because of the diference of their natural habitat and the lfs. I have had better luck waiting until the tank is 2/3 sold to make sure they are ok, then carefully acclamating them to your tank.

[TnMark]

Regarding heaters, I have 2 Via Aqua 300 watt stainless steel heaters in my 135 gallon and for 3 months they have kept the water temp at a steady 84 degrees. I think they were abot $25 each on Ebay..

[cajunland]

I noticed Carol saying don't use carbon? Is there a problem I don't know about? The filters for my emperior 400 come with carbon built in?

[RyanH]

Carbon absorbs impurities in the water and eventually, when full, will tend to leach those impurities right back into the tank. What sucks is that you don't know exactly when this will occur. Your best bet is to rely on water changes to remove impurities because then you know for sure that they won't come back to haunt you.

hth
-Ryan

[Alight]

Whether Ryan's statement about release of impurities is true, or whether carbon removes essential trace elements, no one knows, but there is a correlation between carbon use and the appearance of hole in the head disease in Oscars and Discus.

I have had the experience twice (the second time because I forgot carbon was in the filter) where Discus began to develop pin holes in the snout and even one on the side of the head before I pulled out the carbon. The holes promptly healed over after I did (1 month later, all gone).

For this reason, most of us do not use carbon filtration.

[cajunland]

pin holes I thought mine had been running into the wood
So when I get new filters I should break open the plastic back and shake out the carbon?