Sump and overflow questions

[Discusdude7]

Just bought a 90 gallon tank. I decided to get it not drilled since lfs wants 100 bucks just to have it drilled. So the Bottom of the tank is tampered so I can't drill it but the sides are untampered. Is it possible to drill a tank on the side for the sump? Also what is the risk factor of a flood I get an overflow box?

[sdrexler078]

I have a box but I wish I would have drilled it. And yes you can drill the sides there's a bunch of how to videos on YouTube for drilling yourself. And there's no risk if you have a big enough sump and the return pipe needs a little hole in it so it doesnt syphon back.

[Discusdude7]

I have a box but I wish I would have drilled it. And yes you can drill the sides there's a bunch of how to videos on YouTube for drilling yourself. And there's no risk if you have a big enough sump and the return pipe needs a little hole in it so it doesnt syphon back.

How big is "big enough"? What size would you suggest for this tank size? Can you elaborate on this "hole"? Thanks

[joanstone]

A good site to check out for drilling your tank is Glass-holes.com
They have a good how to video. The hole being referred to doesn't have to be big, it's just there to break the siphon in the return pipe/tube if the power goes out or the pump is turned off. It has nothing to do with the holes being drilled in the actual tank. You do have to make sure it never clogs up, that happened to me once, not good.

[kareen]

I got a kit from Glass-holes to drille my 120gl I watched the video and I did it. The over flow works good

[Discusdude7]

Is there an advantage to having the hole drilled in the bottom vs. the back?

[sdrexler078]

I don't know how big is big enough for yours I didn't even know mine I just had to play around with water levels to find out what worked best and didn't overflow. And glass-holes is a good site they have everything you'll need for drilling. I think on the bottom just allows for less debree to get stuck there but I could be wrong but I've seen plenty that had holes in the side that worked great and didn't build up debree.

[joanstone]

There are pros and cons to each. My 220 came "reef ready" with two back corner overflows and the holes are in the bottom. I have spent plenty of time cursing it as it can be almost impossible to get the plumbing right. Food and detritus also collect in the bottom of the overflows. It also limits your sump choices because you have more limited clearance. I have drilled several of my own other tanks as well. Those, I drilled on the back up near the top. Since the bottom of your tank is tempered anyway, I would check out the kits from glass holes or check out other peoples configurations online. Maybe uarujoey has some DIY videos too.

[Discusdude7]

There are pros and cons to each. My 220 came "reef ready" with two back corner overflows and the holes are in the bottom. I have spent plenty of time cursing it as it can be almost impossible to get the plumbing right. Food and detritus also collect in the bottom of the overflows. It also limits your sump choices because you have more limited clearance. I have drilled several of my own other tanks as well. Those, I drilled on the back up near the top. Since the bottom of your tank is tempered anyway, I would check out the kits from glass holes or check out other peoples configurations online. Maybe uarujoey has some DIY videos too.

The tank isn't here yet so I can still call and tell them to drill the bottom for some extra $$. So do you prefer having it drilled in the bottom or the back? How hard was it to get the plumbing right? This is my first Time attempting a sump and I don't wanna screw this up..:)

EDIT : forgot to add that when they drill it they will add the back corner overflows like you have.

[joanstone]

Probably depends on how deep your tank is. Mine is deep, therefore I can't reach to the bottom where the fittings are inside the overflows. The way my stand is contributes. You need to make sure there's enough room around the external fittings to work with them. My overflows are set up so that all four pipes are overflows instead of two overflows and two returns. Right now, I have a Rotkeil severum in one of the overflows and there is no way I can get him out. It's just too tight (that side has stand pipes that are bigger). He's been in there for a few weeks now, not sure what to do. I know what you mean about getting it right, it's a big deal. I'm looking into having a new tank made this Spring and I'm not sure what I will even do. They have been making overflows like this for a long time, so I get it. Your experience would most likely be better than mine. What do the people making your tank say about it?

[Discusdude7]

Probably depends on how deep your tank is. Mine is deep, therefore I can't reach to the bottom where the fittings are inside the overflows. The way my stand is contributes. You need to make sure there's enough room around the external fittings to work with them. My overflows are set up so that all four pipes are overflows instead of two overflows and two returns. Right now, I have a Rotkeil severum in one of the overflows and there is no way I can get him out. It's just too tight (that side has stand pipes that are bigger). He's been in there for a few weeks now, not sure what to do. I know what you mean about getting it right, it's a big deal. I'm looking into having a new tank made this Spring and I'm not sure what I will even do. They have been making overflows like this for a long time, so I get it. Your experience would most likely be better than mine. What do the people making your tank say about it?

The tank is a 90 gallon so the dimensions are 48X18X24 so 24 inches deep. If you could, would you have gotten the tank drilled in the back instead?and that sucks that you got a fish stuck in there, how big is he? So the tanks you have drilled in the back were easier to plumb/maintain right? The lfs that I'm getting the tank from said that getting it drilled at the bottom was the way to go and it makes everything easier..don't know how much truth is in that. Thanks

[joanstone]

One thing that is definitely easier with the bottom drilled is dealing with a background. Another pro is that the plumbing doesn't get in the way of anything else if you wanted to add anything later like a HOB filter for any reason. My 120 that is drilled in the back isn't hooked to a sump now, but the bulkheads are in the way for filters so they have to be hung on the sides. I think my main problem with the 220 with corner overflows has been the way the stand is made. My tank is built into the wall and the way the stand was made has made it very awkward. The thought of messing with it gives me nightmares. I think if it is done properly, you'll be fine. I am going to really search to see other people's set ups, but the guy I have talked to about my potential build says the same as your LFS, that the bottom is the way to go.

[Discusdude7]

One thing that is definitely easier with the bottom drilled is dealing with a background. Another pro is that the plumbing doesn't get in the way of anything else if you wanted to add anything later like a HOB filter for any reason. My 120 that is drilled in the back isn't hooked to a sump now, but the bulkheads are in the way for filters so they have to be hung on the sides. I think my main problem with the 220 with corner overflows has been the way the stand is made. My tank is built into the wall and the way the stand was made has made it very awkward. The thought of messing with it gives me nightmares. I think if it is done properly, you'll be fine. I am going to really search to see other people's set ups, but the guy I have talked to about my potential build says the same as your LFS, that the bottom is the way to go.

Joan-thank you very much. I will also take precautions so that my fish don't get stuck

[DiscusLoverJeff]

I took my 30 gal sump to my local glass shop and they drilled it for me for $15.00. Did not have have to make a mess, by the drill bit. And it was done right, Lol.

[Discusdude7]

My lfs wants $100 to drill the bottom and add the corner overfliws

[Discusdude7]

If the sump was turned off how would I prevent water from overflowing the sump and flooding the house?(my understanding is that the water is gravity fed from the tank into the sump?)
Also when you drill a tank for the corner overflows there will be two holes correct?

[DiscusAB]

The hole, the hole...

Re-read post #2

[joanstone]

You need to make sure that you leave enough room in the sump to accommodate the water that will siphon down when the power supply is off. If your tank is coming already done with overflows and the required plumbing, it should be fine (I would just verify everything with them). The water will stop once it reaches the top of the overflow pipe. There are holes drilled in the top of my pipes. I don't use my overflows for my return as they were intended. I have two separate returns going directly into the tank, so I need holes in the return lines to break the siphon. Are they doing two corner overflows, one corner or one middle? Wherever they have an overflow, there will be two holes most likely. I don't imagine you need two overflows on a 90. You could google reef ready 90 gallon aquarium and look at images, see what you like the look of.

[Discusdude7]

So how big of a sump for a 90 gallon? How big of a sump for a 120?

[joanstone]

I always get as big as I can fit. I'm using a 6' long 100 gallon tank for my 220's sump. It's got dividers made with Poret foam and lots of aerated, moving K1 media. I also add reactors or whatever on occasion so for me the bigger the better. The overflows drain into each end and the water goes through media/floss for mechanical filtration. The middle chamber is where the return pumps are (I have two) so the water is drawn through layers of Poret foam from each side. I often throw a reactor in there with Purigen. So basically, three sections. It's easy to set up.

[Discusdude7]

I always get as big as I can fit. I'm using a 6' long 100 gallon tank for my 220's sump. It's got dividers made with Poret foam and lots of aerated, moving K1 media. I also add reactors or whatever on occasion so for me the bigger the better. The overflows drain into each end and the water goes through media/floss for mechanical filtration. The middle chamber is where the return pumps are (I have two) so the water is drawn through layers of Poret foam from each side. I often throw a reactor in there with Purigen. So basically, three sections. It's easy to set up.

What would you say the MINIMUM size would be for a 90 gallon and for a 120 and still have enough filteration?

[DiscusAB]

90g = 29g
220g = 75g

Simply answer.

[Discusdude7]

90g = 29g
220g = 75g

Simply answer.

Thanks. What bout a 120?

[joanstone]

The way I look at it is that if you didn't have a sump, you would be using either multiple HOB filters or a canister filter. Look at how small those are. They are filled with media and nothing more. Therefore, any sump really is a benefit if you are adding more water, media etc. I think you should make it big enough to justify the extra expense, etc though. I probably wouldn't bother to use a sump unless it was 20 or really 30 gallons. Even if you used a 30 gallon sump on a 220, it's giving you more potential filtration capacity and benefit than a canister filter. I've got 2 Aquaclear 110s on my 120 right now. With the right layout and media, a sump of any size would be more beneficial than those. I wouldn't put anything smaller than a 30 gallon sump on a 120 probably. I ran my 220 with a 55 gallon tank as a sump for a long time. I swapped it out for a 100 gallon tank sump a while ago because I had the 100 g. tank sitting around. It doesn't hold more media, just more water.

[Discusdude7]

The way I look at it is that if you didn't have a sump, you would be using either multiple HOB filters or a canister filter. Look at how small those are. They are filled with media and nothing more. Therefore, any sump really is a benefit if you are adding more water, media etc. I think you should make it big enough to justify the extra expense, etc though. I probably wouldn't bother to use a sump unless it was 20 or really 30 gallons. Even if you used a 30 gallon sump on a 220, it's giving you more potential filtration capacity and benefit than a canister filter. I've got 2 Aquaclear 110s on my 120 right now. With the right layout and media, a sump of any size would be more beneficial than those. I wouldn't put anything smaller than a 30 gallon sump on a 120 probably. I ran my 220 with a 55 gallon tank as a sump for a long time. I swapped it out for a 100 gallon tank sump a while ago because I had the 100 g. tank sitting around. It doesn't hold more media, just more water.

Thanks. I will probably get a 40 breeder or 55 at the next $ per gallon sale. Do you recommend getting a 30 Inch or 24 inch tall stand?

[joanstone]

If you can get a 55, it would be a lot easier to configure if you are going to have sections and use foam. A 40 breeder is a nice tank, but it's dimensions are not really conducive to using as a sump. I'd probably go with a 30" stand. It will give you more room/clearance for your sump and the height it would put your tank at might make for better viewing. I have a 75 on a home made 22" stand and unless you're sitting down it's tough to see the fish. You should probably measure everything out for where you're going to put it and see how it looks and how easy it will be to work in.

[Discusdude7]

If you can get a 55, it would be a lot easier to configure if you are going to have sections and use foam. A 40 breeder is a nice tank, but it's dimensions are not really conducive to using as a sump. I'd probably go with a 30" stand. It will give you more room/clearance for your sump and the height it would put your tank at might make for better viewing. I have a 75 on a home made 22" stand and unless you're sitting down it's tough to see the fish. You should probably measure everything out for where you're going to put it and see how it looks and how easy it will be to work in.

Thanks...Is it possible to make a DIY Refugium in part of the sump?

[joanstone]

Yes, just have one of your compartments be one. I would go to a site like swisstropicals.com and look at the Poret foam. Get the right number of appropriate size pieces to make as many sections as you want in your sump. For example, two pieces of foam would give you 3 compartments which would be fine. I would do one with something like moving K1 media and and your heater(s) the other could be a refugium if you want. The center section would be your return. It only needs to be big enough to house your return pump(s) and any reactor, etc you might want to put in. I use the white plastic lighting grid available at hardware stores to make my dividers. You don't really have to, but I find it holds the foam in place so that it doesn't get drawn toward the center of the sump. I just hold those in place with some gobs of aquarium safe silicone.