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View Full Version : What is required to build shelving for three 20-29 gallon tanks



OC Discus
02-27-2014, 11:03 PM
I've seen pics of fishrooms here with shelves with breeding tanks stacked 3 or 4 high. What type wood and screws are required to hold the weight? Any links to your projects would be appreciated. I have space for 3 sets of 3 shelves each that could accommodate 9 tanks. I will probably start with one set for now and add the others later.

What about shelving to hold the weight of 55 g tanks three high? Would plain 2x4's with long screws hold the weight?

Larry Bugg
02-27-2014, 11:59 PM
2x4's and use deck screws.

OC Discus
02-28-2014, 12:09 AM
Thanks Larry.

Do you attach the shelves directly to the legs, or put braces on the legs for the shelves? And do you use plywood shelving or sit the tank directly on the 2x4s?

Also, how many tanks high do you go?

treemanone2003
02-28-2014, 01:28 AM
OC-

I don't know how to copy and paste from mobile device but search "Breeding System." Nick Klimkowski as he's recently posted a thread that has a lot of the info you may be searching for. I think his were only 29 g but it may lead to a good rough start that you could tweak for a larger setup.

Skip
02-28-2014, 10:12 AM
Thanks Larry.

Do you attach the shelves directly to the legs, or put braces on the legs for the shelves? And do you use plywood shelving or sit the tank directly on the 2x4s?

Also, how many tanks high do you go?

its all up to you, on how you want to design your rack for your tanks

OC Discus
02-28-2014, 10:36 AM
Thanks Skip. My concern is requirements to hold the weight of 29 and 55 g tanks- thickness of wood, braces, screws.


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OC Discus
02-28-2014, 10:37 AM
Thanks Tree. I ll check that out.


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Skip
02-28-2014, 10:58 AM
Thanks Skip. My concern is requirements to hold the weight of 29 and 55 g tanks- thickness of wood, braces, screws.

as Larry said.. 2x4 and deck screws..

hans has 65 gallon tanks.. on 2x4 at corners with a little block with 2 screws on each of the blocks on corners..

search thru HANS threads about new fish house.. he took lots of pics.. its easy,

Larry Bugg
02-28-2014, 11:22 AM
This photo will give you an idea of what I do. All my stands are built like this except for the 220 stand. I used 2x6's for that. They are pretty simply but they will hold the weight. I have up to 75's on these stands. They are built where they could be 3 high but I don't. When I first built the fish room they were built to hold 3 high but I don't like having a tank close to the ground. The fish normally don't like it and they are much harder to clean. I don't use any kind of decking. The tanks sit right on the 2x4's. I don't see any need for plywood or any kind of decking. The 2x4's are what are holding the weight. Some kind of decking is just going to catch water when I overflow the tank, lol. Some people use a piece of insulation under the tank to hold heat witch is a good idea. I have used these stands for 4 years now without any issue.

http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx56/Bugman30040/IMG_4487.jpg (http://s741.photobucket.com/user/Bugman30040/media/IMG_4487.jpg.html)

OC Discus
02-28-2014, 11:33 AM
Thanks guys. I'm getting the picture.


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DiscusLoverJeff
02-28-2014, 02:49 PM
I would pay a little more and get treated lumber so you don't get any warping later on from a possible water spill.

Skip
02-28-2014, 03:19 PM
I would pay a little more and get treated lumber so you don't get any warping later on from a possible water spill.
http://www.epa.gov/oppad001/reregistration/cca/cca_consumer_safety.htm


Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA):
Consumer Safety Information Sheet: Inorganic Arsenical Pressure-Treated Wood

Consumer Information:

This wood has been preserved by pressure-treatment with an EPA-registered pesticide containing inorganic arsenic to protect it from insect attack and decay. Wood treated with inorganic arsenic should be used only where such protection is important.

Inorganic arsenic penetrates deeply into and remains in the pressure-treated wood for a long time. However, some chemical may migrate from treated wood into surrounding soil over time and may also be dislodged from the wood surface upon contact with skin. Exposure to inorganic arsenic may present certain hazards. Therefore, the following precautions should be taken both when handling the treated wood and in determining where to use or dispose of the treated wood.

Use-Site Precautions:

All sawdust and construction debris should be cleaned up and disposed of after construction.

Do not use treated wood under circumstances where the preservative may become a component of food or animal feed. Examples of such sites would be use of mulch from recycled arsenic-treated wood, cutting boards, counter tops, animal bedding, and structures or containers for storing animal feed or human food.

Only treated wood that is visibly clean and free of surface residue should be used for patios, decks and walkways.

Do not use treated wood for construction of those portions of beehives which may come into contact with honey.

Treated wood should not be used where it may come into direct or indirect contact with drinking water, except for uses involving incidental contact such as docks and bridges.
Handling Precautions:

Treated wood should not be burned in open fires or in stoves, fireplaces, or residential boilers because toxic chemicals may be produced as part of the smoke and ashes. Treated wood from commercial or industrial use (e.g., construction sites) may be burned only in commercial or industrial incinerators or boilers in accordance with state and Federal regulations. CCA-treated wood can be disposed of with regular municipal trash (i.e., municipal solid waste, not yard waste) in many areas. However, state or local laws may be stricter than federal requirements. For more information, please contact the waste management agency for your state.

Avoid frequent or prolonged inhalation of sawdust from treated wood. When sawing, sanding, and machining treated wood, wear a dust mask. Whenever possible, these operations should be performed outdoors to avoid indoor accumulations or airborne sawdust from treated wood.

When power-sawing and machining, wear goggles to protect eyes from flying particles.

Wear gloves when working with the wood. After working with the wood, and before eating, drinking, toileting, and use of tobacco products, wash exposed areas thoroughly.

Because preservatives or sawdust may accumulate on clothes, they should be laundered before reuse. Wash work clothes separately from other household clothing.

this is from EPA>.

i personally would not ever use PTW inside that house.. if you are soaking your rack to cause water damage.. you are doing something wrong.. getting water on PTW and it falls into tanks below.. imo, would be a risk i would not take..

so if you chose PTW>. just know that there are HARMFUL Chemicals in there and you must handle with care.. for your pets and family.. ie kids..

OC Discus
02-28-2014, 03:42 PM
Wow


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afriend
02-28-2014, 05:56 PM
OC Discus,

I would recommend using 1/4 inch carriage bolts with washers and nuts instead of deck screws. I think this approach will end up with much tighter and stronger joints. Carriage bolts are available in lengths greater than 8 inch. Just clamp the pieces together, predrill slightly less than 1/4 inch and drive them in with a hammer. Done this with shelving in the past and the joints turn out super strong. In those areas where the rounded head of the carriage bolt might protrude and cause a problem, just counter sink it slightly.

Lumber is generally classified as structural or non-structural. Structural lumber is intended for applications where high loads are required. If you will tell me the number of gallons for each aquarium, the required spacing, and the type of structural wood you have available in your area, I can tell you if the lumber is rated to carry the load.

Paul

Larry Bugg
02-28-2014, 06:53 PM
I would not use pressure treated lumber either for the very reason Skip mentioned. I thought about it when I first started to build the racks and was told very strongly not to do it.

OC Discus
02-28-2014, 08:39 PM
Thanks for the tips guys.

Paul, my sizes will probably vary. I've never grown out a group of fry, but when my first pair starts spawning, I will either put them in my 20g long or get a 29g. At that point I might upgrade my 55 g display to at least a 90 and use the 55 for a grow out tank. The first step will probably be a 55g above a 20g that is already set up. So the first frame will just hold the 55 g with the legs straddling the 20 g w/stand. If that is not stable enough I may remove the stand and build the frame to hold both tanks with 55 on bottom and 20 on top. At the point I need a new tank, it will likely be a 29g for the pair and leaving the 20g for qt, so the top shelf should be able to hold a 20 or 29g.

afriend
02-28-2014, 09:31 PM
Thanks for the tips guys.

Paul, my sizes will probably vary. I've never grown out a group of fry, but when my first pair starts spawning, I will either put them in my 20g long or get a 29g. At that point I might upgrade my 55 g display to at least a 90 and use the 55 for a grow out tank. The first step will probably be a 55g above a 20g that is already set up. So the first frame will just hold the 55 g with the legs straddling the 20 g w/stand. If that is not stable enough I may remove the stand and build the frame to hold both tanks with 55 on bottom and 20 on top. At the point I need a new tank, it will likely be a 29g for the pair and leaving the 20g for qt, so the top shelf should be able to hold a 20 or 29g.

OC Discus,

Is this shelf going to be free standing, or can it be supported by attaching it to a wall? I will need a sketch with dimensions showing all possible combinations of the arrangement of tanks. PM me and I'll provide you with my email address where you can send the sketch.

Also, I need to know the type of structural lumber and grade available where you intend to purchase. Example Douglas Fir or Southern Yellow Pine or whatever, #1, #2, #3 etc. This can be Home Depot, Lowes, or whatever. Call or visit and ask the lumber manager. You will be using 2X4 or 2X6.

Paul

OC Discus
02-28-2014, 09:41 PM
Thanks Paul,

I'm not that far along in my planning yet. I'll post more when I know for certain.

nc0gnet0
03-01-2014, 01:23 AM
What is required to build shelving for three 20-29 gallon tanks

6 cynder blocks and a couple of 2x8's

OC Discus
03-01-2014, 10:21 AM
6 cynder blocks and a couple of 2x8's


Now that's thinking Rick- Quick and Easy. I like that.

jsalas623
03-01-2014, 12:48 PM
I built my racks like the ones on Ted's videos: http://tedsfishroom.com/2011/04/20/aquarium-racks-in-a-fish-room/