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Mustanggtandgsxr
01-13-2016, 11:38 AM
Hello All,

Im new to the hobby and have purchased 6 beautiful Discus for my 125 Gallon aquarium. I want to be ready incase anything happens and need to act fast. What are some of the most common meds that I hope to never use, but should have incase something went wrong.

DISEASE QUESTIONNAIRE


Problem

1. Please explain the problems with your fish. When did you notice the problems and did anything unusual happen that you think started them? No problem, they are shy and dark now because they are new and still acclimating. They are starting to eat fine. The lights are still bothering them, but Im sure it will take time. Any tips on what to look for?

2. Symptoms (i.e. turning dark, excess slime, not eating, clamped fins, flashing, darting, clamped gills, white/yellow/green poop, hiding, headstanding or tailstanding, white on tips of fins, rotting or fungus, blisters/white zits on fish, bloated, cloudy eyes, wounds). Dark, Hiding


3. What medications/ treatments have you already tried and what were the results. Include dosage and duration of treatment. none



Tank/Water

4. Tank size and ages, numbers and sizes of fish. 125 gallon, discus are anywhere from 2.5 to 6 inches, I have 6 discus(2 wilds), 10 cory cats, 8 neon tetras. I feed 3 times a day sometimes 4 if I can. I work 10hrs a day.


5. Water change regime (What percentage and how often). 50% every other day, I use Prime


6. How long has tank been running? Is it bare bottom? If you have substrate, what type and how deep is it? tanks has been running for 2 months, 100lbs of Pool Filter Sand substrate about 1.5 inch deep


7. Do you age your water? If you do for how long and what is the ph swing. No I do not age my water, and no ph swing. My ph is the same as the tap.


8. Parameters and water source; 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrites, 5 Nitrates, water from the tap and I use Prime


Note: Water Parameters are important in diagnosing problems within a tank. If you don't own test kits for the following information, you can purchase them, test your parameters and post this info as soon as possible.



- temp __84.5___

- ph __7.6___

- ammonia reading __0__

- nitrite reading __0__

- nitrate reading __5__

What type of water or combinations of water sources do you use? If it is an RO/tap/well water mix, please list percentages in the mix.

- well water ____

- municipal water _X___

- RO water ____


9. Any new fish, plants or inverts added recently. only new fish are the discus. I removed angels, mollies, bala shark before adding them to the tank.


10. Include any pictures or videos you have which shows the symptoms. If you can't add them to this post, please provide a link to them. no pics of the wilds cause they are really hiding.

Thanks!!!!!!

Mustanggtandgsxr
01-14-2016, 12:42 AM
I guess this question is pointless. If something is wrong, the best thing to do is up water changes, find out whats the cause, and fix it? If the issue is not resolved or getting better then you medicate? Is that right?

nc0gnet0
01-14-2016, 12:49 AM
The best medicine to keep is not a medicine at all, but it is a hospital tank, bare bottom of sufficient size. After that, a lot would depend on what is readily available to you...........................

bamzam
01-14-2016, 12:54 AM
A local breeder suggested I always have some metro on hand. It came in handy once, and I'm glad I did.

http://store.nationalfishpharm.com/Metronidazole-Powder-59582.Item.html

Mustanggtandgsxr
01-14-2016, 12:57 PM
I have 40gal breeder with a 80gal sponge filter and heater set at 84, bare bottom as you can see. Is this a good hospital tank? If not what do you recommend? Thanks 9340993410

nc0gnet0
01-14-2016, 01:01 PM
That is a perfect hospital tank. Just don't fill it with fish!

Meshelly
01-14-2016, 02:26 PM
Maybe I can't see it very well, but it looks like you could use to paint the bottom of that hospital tank. ;)

warblad79
01-14-2016, 02:40 PM
Sick fish don't care if painted or not. You will need to turn off the lights anyway during quarantine. So fish don't see the paint when it's dark. You guys giving ridiculous advice, just like Rick mention that's perfect for quarantine tank

Lighthouse7
01-14-2016, 03:01 PM
I don't think painting bottom or also back comes under "ridiculous advice" - Lighthouse

Mustanggtandgsxr
01-14-2016, 03:29 PM
Can someone explain why I would have to paint the bottom even if it wasn't a hospital tank?

Mustanggtandgsxr
01-14-2016, 03:33 PM
That is a perfect hospital tank. Just don't fill it with fish!

Thanks. Yea I'm just waiting for it to cycle now. Been adding food. I read somewhere that hospital tanks don't need to be cycled? Is that correct. Just set up when needed?

Mustanggtandgsxr
01-14-2016, 03:34 PM
Sick fish don't care if painted or not. You will need to turn off the lights anyway during quarantine. So fish don't see the paint when it's dark. You guys giving ridiculous advice, just like Rick mention that's perfect for quarantine tank


Is paint a requirement if it wasn't? Just curious

discuspaul
01-14-2016, 03:37 PM
Cycling is not needed - just change lots of water every day when in use. When not in use, you don't want to be inconvenienced by having to maintain ammonia to keep the cycle intact.

Pardal
01-14-2016, 03:38 PM
Tony
When you paint the bottom or put little sand , fish don't see their reflection when swimming, same approach when you paint, or put some back ground , what it does is create a calming effect.

warblad79
01-14-2016, 03:40 PM
painting it is never a requirement for hospital tank because the light has to be off anyway. So what's the point of painting it but I do know for sure in breeding tank.

Mustanggtandgsxr
01-14-2016, 03:59 PM
Thanks everyone. I'm trying to have everything ready. I'm reading all I can and learning as much as possible so that my fish stay healthy. I appreciate everyone that has helped me so far and future help as well.

Pardal
01-14-2016, 04:10 PM
Medications should be use when necessary and some of us has learn through out years to make an educated guess, As one can never be certain until a pathogen has being positively identified by microscope.
However many of us do deworm and treat for parasites like fluke.
This is a quick view to my quarantine method is kind an a guide as I don't do always the same but is more or less. You can read others on the quarantine section.
When you received a new fish , just give them clean water , feed them the next morning, and do daily WCs, after of few days to a week depend how they arrived and how fast they acclimatized .
the second week but the first one of treatment I personally treat with metro first.(preferable in the food like FDBW if they are eating well as they should)
three days rest
third week I treat with praziquantel preferable prazi pro because dilute better.
three days rest
fourth week I treat with Flubendazole or levamisol.(in the food preferable for Flubendazole)
Now observation for a whole week with clean water daily WCs . I don't treat for antibiotics if not necessary.
At the end of my quarantine I give the fish a light pink PP bath for three hours. I usually do it for the fish they are going to join with to. (so everyone start in a clean).
So yes you should keep medications the difference is to use it as prophylactic measure or disease treatment.
Again when the fish are eating I put the med in their food instead of the water that is for metro and Flubendazole.

Pardal
01-14-2016, 04:29 PM
painting it is never a requirement for hospital tank because the light has to be off anyway. So what's the point of painting it but I do know for sure in breeding tank.

How about this Painting is Highly Recommended!
Light need to be on for proper observation at one point.

warblad79
01-14-2016, 04:43 PM
How about this Painting is Highly Recommended!
Light need to be on for proper observation at one point.

Agree, highly recommended but not required.

Surfnturf
01-15-2016, 11:04 PM
Epsom salt is good to have though technically not a med.

Mustanggtandgsxr
01-17-2016, 12:31 AM
Any type of Epsom salt or is there a specific one? Thanks