PVC diy Hang on Back Overflow

[Mattgrizzlybear]

I have a question for those who use non drilled overflows as my 125 gallon cannot be drilled. I am trying to stay on a budget and overflow boxes are a bit pricy so i am looking into a diy hang on back overflow. I have looked at UrJoey/The King of Diy's diy overflow and am considering doing that. For those who have it, what works and what doesn't? Any help is appreciated, thanks!

[Las Vegas]

I saw those vids also. I was thinking of doing that also with a drip system. But I thought it was too much trouble plus those type of overflows, I don't think they are reliable. I saw where they started using double systems because the single pipe system fails from time to time. So that just doesn't sit well with me. I decided not to put holes in my new tank and stay with canister pump and HOB. But I'm considering trying the Hamburgh filtration. It looks really easy and I can adjust it to the canister pump or HOB.

[rickztahone]

Is your back panel tempered glass?

[Mattgrizzlybear]

Is your back panel tempered glass?
The sticker says "do not drill glass enclosure" but im not sure if thats the whole thing or just bottom panel.

[rickztahone]

The sticker says "do not drill glass enclosure" but im not sure if thats the whole thing or just bottom panel.

Typically it is just the bottom pane. You can check by wearing a pair of sunglasses aND an led light. Check out youtube for the actual process. Drilling would be the best option really

[Iowa_Discus]

I also did not want to drill my tanks, so I made an overflow based on Joey's (updated) model. He has an older version and a newer, I went with the newer. I have four, 20 gallon tanks all hooked into the same sump using the same overflow design. The PVC components are 1/2'' and the inflow/outflow in-tank PVC chamber (or, weir) is 3'' PVC. It works well, but only after a lot of trial and error. Avoid my mistakes:

1. DO NOT drill a hole in the weir for a suction cup, or for any other reason, even though Joey does it. Without going into detail, trust me that a) a suction cup doesn't even work to keep it in place if the water level inside gets lower than the water level in the tank, and b) any water entering that hole is serious trouble in the case of a power outage. To keep the weir in place, lodge another, smaller piece of PVC (3/4'' or 1'' works fine) between it and the top rim of the aquarium, maybe attaching it with a rubber band to the outgoing overflow PVC. This has worked very well for me. Make sure there is enough space so that the water level is always visible from outside the tank. This is important because if the system isn't working, you will need a few seconds to get everything turned off. If the water level is above the black aquarium rim, you won't have any warning that there's trouble until your aquarium overflows over the sides.
2. Seal the connection between the PVC cap and weir with your aquarium sealant of choice. I can't emphasize enough that the weir compartment should be waterproof. You only want water overflowing into it and not being able to get in any other way.
3. Joey claims that with the Tom's Aqua-lifter, the system is foolproof in the case of a power failure. I have found this to be true, as long as the PVC outflow is 1/2'' or larger, the in-tank PVC compartment has a large diameter and there is a significant drop from the tank into the sump. I have another tank hooked up using 1/2'' PVC with a small drop, and I have to prime it every time I turn it back on because the Aqua-lifter needs help. After a long break between uses, I would highly recommend priming the system, no matter what.
4. I would highly recommend gluing all the PVC components together, if a few components come apart the system will dump the excess contents of the sump on the floor, and your water pump will run dry. If you don't use glue, and I don't know why you wouldn't glue for a 125 that presumably will be in operation for a long time, make sure you have quick and open access to the back of the tank where the overflow runs to the sump.
5. I put an airstone with a high rate of air right next to the inflow/outflow PVC, which helps the water overflow into the weir. It also provides good aeration that was lost when I took out the sponge filters (I don't need them with all the bio-filtration in the sump).
6. The aqua-lifter tubing does need to be replaced every few weeks, especially if it's near a strong light source.

That's all I can think of right now. Like I said , I've been using it for months very successfully (after the trial & error period). Be prepared to stay close to the system the first few times you use it to ensure you don't find more design bugs. When it works, it's great. When it goes bad, it's really bad. Drilling would be a much safer long-term option.

94074

[Mattgrizzlybear]

I also did not want to drill my tanks, so I made an overflow based on Joey's (updated) model. He has an older version and a newer, I went with the newer. I have four, 20 gallon tanks all hooked into the same sump using the same overflow design. The PVC components are 1/2'' and the inflow/outflow in-tank PVC chamber (or, weir) is 3'' PVC. It works well, but only after a lot of trial and error. Avoid my mistakes:

1. DO NOT drill a hole in the weir for a suction cup, or for any other reason, even though Joey does it. Without going into detail, trust me that a) a suction cup doesn't even work to keep it in place if the water level inside gets lower than the water level in the tank, and b) any water entering that hole is serious trouble in the case of a power outage. To keep the weir in place, lodge another, smaller piece of PVC (3/4'' or 1'' works fine) between it and the top rim of the aquarium, maybe attaching it with a rubber band to the outgoing overflow PVC. This has worked very well for me. Make sure there is enough space so that the water level is always visible from outside the tank. This is important because if the system isn't working, you will need a few seconds to get everything turned off. If the water level is above the black aquarium rim, you won't have any warning that there's trouble until your aquarium overflows over the sides.
2. Seal the connection between the PVC cap and weir with your aquarium sealant of choice. I can't emphasize enough that the weir compartment should be waterproof. You only want water overflowing into it and not being able to get in any other way.
3. Joey claims that with the Tom's Aqua-lifter, the system is foolproof in the case of a power failure. I have found this to be true, as long as the PVC outflow is 1/2'' or larger, the in-tank PVC compartment has a large diameter and there is a significant drop from the tank into the sump. I have another tank hooked up using 1/2'' PVC with a small drop, and I have to prime it every time I turn it back on because the Aqua-lifter needs help. After a long break between uses, I would highly recommend priming the system, no matter what.
4. I would highly recommend gluing all the PVC components together, if a few components come apart the system will dump the excess contents of the sump on the floor, and your water pump will run dry. If you don't use glue, and I don't know why you wouldn't glue for a 125 that presumably will be in operation for a long time, make sure you have quick and open access to the back of the tank where the overflow runs to the sump.
5. I put an airstone with a high rate of air right next to the inflow/outflow PVC, which helps the water overflow into the weir. It also provides good aeration that was lost when I took out the sponge filters (I don't need them with all the bio-filtration in the sump).
6. The aqua-lifter tubing does need to be replaced every few weeks, especially if it's near a strong light source.

That's all I can think of right now. Like I said , I've been using it for months very successfully (after the trial & error period). Be prepared to stay close to the system the first few times you use it to ensure you don't find more design bugs. When it works, it's great. When it goes bad, it's really bad. Drilling would be a much safer long-term option.

94074

Thank you for the help! How long have you had the set up? Thanks again!

[Iowa_Discus]

No problem, happy to help. My system has been working problem-free for about a month. A couple weeks of trial & error before that.

[dpboyer]

I use Joey's original design on my 55g (fully tempered glass so no way to drill), but I don't use it as a typical overflow, I use it to drain the tank during water changes (I have a valve and the output directs to my drain system)... it has held prime for over 2 weeks at a stretch (with no use during those 2 weeks)... I have had it setup this way for about 6 months and it only lost prime one time and the was due to me getting an air stone to close to the intake and pumping air into the system.

[Mattgrizzlybear]

I use Joey's original design on my 55g (fully tempered glass so no way to drill), but I don't use it as a typical overflow, I use it to drain the tank during water changes (I have a valve and the output directs to my drain system)... it has held prime for over 2 weeks at a stretch (with no use during those 2 weeks)... I have had it setup this way for about 6 months and it only lost prime one time and the was due to me getting an air stone to close to the intake and pumping air into the system.

What do you use for your filter? Another overflow or something else?

[dpboyer]

What do you use for your filter? Another overflow or something else?

I use an aquaclear 70 and a sponge filter... the 55g is being used as a grow out tank for some angels.
Once I get some other stuff moved around and situated in the fish room, I will probably move to a sump with a 1" overflow based on Joey's design.