Components for an auto-fill RO Reservoir?

[Tres]

Can anyone tell me please what hardware components are required to build a dependable system which will automatically refill and keep my RO reservoir/barrel topped off at all times? I hadn't found a previous thread on this, and am not sure what is required and if it has to be an electronic system of electronic float switches/solenoids/etc (potentially expensive and complicated) or if there are mechanical float switches/etc which can accomplish this dependably and hands-free just as easily? Please advise!

I have two systems as such to build, one of which needs to certainly be sure not to fail and flood my new oak floors!

(I bought a cheap RO auto shut-off float switch off an auction site, but it turns out it only stops the RO water flow and the discharge water keeps flowing down the drain unless the supply is shut off which is a significant waste of water).

[Wes]

A (asov) automatic shut off valve and a float switch.


" ASOV - Automatic - Shut - Off - Valve

Replaces existing ASOV in most systems and can be added to older systems that do not automatically shut down. You will need a float valve or a pressure tank to provide back pressure on the pure water side. This back pressure will then stop the input water from coming into the system. "


http://theh2oguru.com/accessories/ro-unit-parts/asov.html

http://theh2oguru.com/accessories/ro-unit-parts/float-valve.html

http://theh2oguru.com/media/pdf_files/t/y/typhoon_iii_illustration.pdf

[nc0gnet0]

Ones like the one Wes posted work OK in a standard 55 gallon drum setup, but everyone I have had eventually fails. ON my setup with the storage tank a considerable distance from the RO unit, I find this set up the most fail safe:

normally closed float switch (any will work-just make sure you don't get the more common "normally open" model
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Normally-Closed-Float-Switch-EBNCFS/205618024


You want to then plumb in one of these to the input line to the RO unit.
"normally open" Solenoid valve

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151314136256?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

you then plug in the solenoid valve into the piggy back plug on the float, and plug that into an outlet. If your running RO booster pumps as well, you would plug these into the back of the float switch as well, and not only when your RO container is full, not only will it shut off the water, but shut of the pumps as well.

-Rick

[Tres]

Thanks, perhaps I'm being daft but I'm not clear on the relationship between the Float Valve and the Automatic Shut Off Valve.

Is the FV supposed to be connected directly to the body of the ASOV in order to stop the flow? I looked at the ASOV sheet but it wasn't clear what it is operated/triggered by. It seems a little over-complicated than necessary perhaps to have to use double valve, while I thought you might have just wanted a single valve on the incoming feed before it even gets to any part of the filter. (Or is that too difficult to control as it's under greater pressure on that side of the membrane?)

Have you used these yourself by the way and found them to be very reliable, or do you still sometimes find them to be leaking?

Many thanks!

[Tres]

Thanks, perhaps I'm being daft but I'm not clear on the relationship between the Float Valve and the Automatic Shut Off Valve.

Is the FV supposed to be connected directly to the body of the ASOV in order to stop the flow? I looked at the ASOV sheet but it wasn't clear what it is operated/triggered by. It seems a little over-complicated than necessary perhaps to have to use double valve, while I thought you might have just wanted a single valve on the incoming feed before it even gets to any part of the filter. (Or is that too difficult to control as it's under greater pressure on that side of the membrane?)

Have you used these yourself by the way and found them to be very reliable, or do you still sometimes find them to be leaking?

Many thanks!

Ah, I read it again and realized the ASOV operates on the principle of back-pressure which is created by the float valve at the point of entry for water in the RO reservoir.

[DJW]

As a backup in case the float valve fails, you can install a bulkhead/overflow near the top of the barrel. This has to be plumbed to the house drain or to the yard, which for some won't be easy.

[Tres]

Ones like the one Wes posted work OK in a standard 55 gallon drum setup, but everyone I have had eventually fails. ON my setup with the storage tank a considerable distance from the RO unit, I find this set up the most fail safe:

normally closed float switch (any will work-just make sure you don't get the more common "normally open" model
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Normally-Closed-Float-Switch-EBNCFS/205618024


You want to then plumb in one of these to the input line to the RO unit.
"normally open" Solenoid valve

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151314136256?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

you then plug in the solenoid valve into the piggy back plug on the float, and plug that into an outlet. If your running RO booster pumps as well, you would plug these into the back of the float switch as well, and not only when your RO container is full, not only will it shut off the water, but shut of the pumps as well.

-Rick

That sounds like a good option certainly for my in-house reservoir, although if I did go with it in the utility room as well then I'd want to use the 12 volt solenoid and wire the power into the next room instead. With this system, have you had any experience with or can you think of any potential risks or scenarios that could result in a failure and flood?

I'm getting all sorts of ideas however for what else i could use these for, including creating a push-button water change system, if I could figure out what sort of button(s) could trigger a drain-down and then refill sequence...

[DonMD]

As a backup in case the float valve fails, you can install a bulkhead/overflow near the top of the barrel. This has to be plumbed to the house drain or to the yard, which for some won't be easy.

In my opinion this is absolutely necessary to avoid any future flooding.

[Cosmo]

What Wes gave you works fine, so long as your water pressure isn't too great. If you're going to add a booster pump (increase output and decrease TDS) you'd want to also get the electronic shut off valves that go with them.

http://www.amazon.com/Aquatec-8800-water-booster-Transformer/dp/B00ENPZE5Y

scroll down and you'll see the electronic shut offs you'd need to both shut down the RO and turn off the pump.

If your RO unit is less than 100gpd then you'd want the Aquatec 6800 instead of the 8800

The float switch in Wes's link works great, better than the KENT one.

[Keith Perkins]

In my opinion this is absolutely necessary to avoid any future flooding.

Yea, dang cheap insurance. I haven't used them yet in 5 years on my RO reservoirs, but I sure have used the ones on my aging barrels.

[Tres]

As a backup in case the float valve fails, you can install a bulkhead/overflow near the top of the barrel. This has to be plumbed to the house drain or to the yard, which for some won't be easy.

And fortunately I put in a floor drain and raised threshold in my utility room for precisely that reason, and had a drain put in by my tank to be able to overflow my tank and reservoir to that. :)

[DonMD]

And fortunately I put in a floor drain and raised threshold in my utility room for precisely that reason, and had a drain put in by my tank to be able to overflow my tank and reservoir to that. :)

Thinking ahead always pays off.

[Wes]

Thinking ahead always pays off.


And keeps your feet dry.:sun:

[DJW]

How about one of these?

http://www.amazon.com/Ideal-Security-SK676BL-Detector-Sensor/dp/B00V4V1GJ8/ref=sr_1_1/189-7517439-5178954?ie=UTF8&qid=1456073738&sr=8-1&keywords=overflow+alarm

Uaru DIY Joey has a youtube video where he makes a water alarm out of a fire alarm:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfgUPBApY7s

[nc0gnet0]

How about one of these?

http://www.amazon.com/Ideal-Security-SK676BL-Detector-Sensor/dp/B00V4V1GJ8/ref=sr_1_1/189-7517439-5178954?ie=UTF8&qid=1456073738&sr=8-1&keywords=overflow+alarm

Uaru DIY Joey has a youtube video where he makes a water alarm out of a fire alarm:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfgUPBApY7s

And if your not home? lol

[DJW]

And if you aint home:

http://www.amazon.com/PumpAlarm-com-S-PB-Cellular-Water-Alarm/dp/B00DZ0YM60

[nc0gnet0]

And if you aint home:

http://www.amazon.com/PumpAlarm-com-S-PB-Cellular-Water-Alarm/dp/B00DZ0YM60


LOL, Calls you up to tell you your coming home to a mess........lol.

[Tres]

This is the auto-dialer water leak and power loss alarm that I had been looking at getting, and when I had talked to the company they said these two units can both be plugged in to work together.

https://www.ultrasecuredirect.com/mains-power-failure-alarms/kp-mini-adjustable-gsm-power-failure-008-1690-p439.html
KP GSM MINI MAINS POWER FAILURE ALARM
Manufacturer: Ultra Secure Direct Reference 008-1690
Great value GSM Mains Power Failure Alarm System, it will send up to 5 text messages to key-holders in the event of a power failure (after the predetermined time period has elapsed).

https://www.ultrasecuredirect.com/wireless-indoor-alarms/gsm-wireless-alarms-/kp-mini-gsm-wireless-alarm-system/kp-mini-wireless-gsm-flood-alarm-system--005-0940-p447.html
KP MINI WIRELESS GSM FLOOD ALARM SYSTEM
Manufacturer: Ultra Secure Direct Reference 005-0940
Affordable KP Mini Wireless GSM Flood Alarm, supplied with a Wireless Water Sensor, Remote Control & Wired Siren, can be used on its own or as a base kit to build a far more comprehensive Wireless GSM Alarm.

I believe with this type of alarm you don't need any depth of water to trigger the alarm, (unlike the one in the link above). And any significant wetness on the floor would be enough to complete the electrical signal to trigger the alarm. I also wouldn't want something that would let off a screaming siren any time I spill a tiny bit of water while doing maintenance, but wouldn't be bothered to just get a text if that happens meanwhile.