small discus hatchery , ready to throw in the towel , due to gill flukes !

[klr-dude]

hello all
i have operated a small hatchery for 30 years off and on .
since i have well water i was rather successful , after a few years pause i started up again .
initially i had some nice spawns and all was well , until i bought some new brood stock from a reputable supplier .
since my quarantine tank was not big enough a was forced to put them in without quarantine ,(yes i know it was stupid )
after having some actually spawning thing got real bad , about a month after i bought the fish i had all of a sudden oodinium , skinflukes and gill flukes .(dactilogyrus &gyrodactilus ).
the oodinium was treated with heat , no problem.
skin flukes we gone after one treatment of prazi pro .
however it seems nothing will kill the gill flukes .
i have been at it for half a year so far .
i have tried every treatment so far and NOTHING kills them .
PP so strong it was stressful for the discus did nothing .
salt , nothing
formalin malachite green had some success but is no longet available in canada .
i tried prazi pro double strength , nothing
i bought prazi powder 100%pure , nothing
double strength , nothing .
triple strength , nothing .
dissolved in vodka , nothing
even prazi dissolved in DMSO double the strength administered with half the water in the tanks did not kill the flukes .
not after , one hr. 2 hrs. 6 hrs 12 hrs 24 hrs .
confirmed by sacrificing juveniles and a post mortem examination .(you can't miss flukes under a microscope)
it does not kill the flukes whatsoever and adult flukes survive which means that follow up treatment are already a failure before i started .
i have some flubanol but it's 20 years old by now , since i never had to use it , also unavailable in canada anymore .
i'm at the end of my tether and start thinking about a humane way to wipe out my whole operation , i don't want to sell any of the discus that have these flukes , that would be irresponsible .
i just about read every article about gill flukes , but if there is anybody that is aware of a successful treatment i would like to get in contact .


sorry for the long post but , i felt it was better to spell it all out beforehand .

thanks .

[Megalodon]

Find an aquatic vet. Some flukes need organophosphates.

[klr-dude]

thank you for your response .
i was loath to use organophosphates since i read it was toxic to discus .


"A treatment of malachite and formalin may also be effective in combating Monogenea but the higher doses are most generally needed in order to be effective. Fluke-tabs are also effective in treating for Monogenea. They contain organophosphates which are effective in killing flukes but flukes eventually build up a resistance to them. Fluke-tabs should not be used on Discus and Catfish; they are toxic to those types of fish."

i cut and past this from an article i read .

do you personalty have experience with this treatment ?

thank you !

my vet knows virtually nothing about fish and i don't know where to go for an aquatic vet where i live .

[klr-dude]

did anybody here ever use fluke tabs .

i read that they are toxic to discus .


Organophosphates certainly do eliminate monogenetic trematodes, (e.g.: Flukes), with varying effectiveness, but it is known that these Monogeneans can and DO develop resistance to the compounds. The unique, carbamate-pesticide portion of this compound is the important adjunct that enhances it's parasiticidal effect.

Do not use on tropical fish from the Amazon River. Discuses are particularly sensitive. There is significant toxicity of the Carbamates to certain fish, most notably discus and Catfish, who may be affected adversely.

[100fuegos]

It may be worth to give Wormer Plus (http://wormerplus.co.uk/) a try, it is Flubendzole based. Best results when disolved in DMSO or simple 96 % isopropyl alcohol.

[klr-dude]

thank you for your reply .
i have flubanol 5% but like i said it's 20 years old , it might have lost it's properties .
i did not find a place in north america that sells it but it can be shipped out of the U.K.
does anybody know what the shelf life of flubanol is ?
does anybody know a source for flubanol in the U.S. or canada ?

[Megalodon]

my vet knows virtually nothing about fish and i don't know where to go for an aquatic vet where i live .

Try here first:

https://www.aquavetmed.info/index.cfm?PID=6

[klr-dude]

thank all of you for the replies .
100fuegos suggested to look into wormer plus , a flubendazole based med.

i talked to an other discus enthusiast here in ontario and lo and behold he told me about an aquarium supply store not even 3 minutes away from me , and i never heard of them before , according to their website they have it in stock .

i will try this and let you guys know .

hope this works for me .

some other member thought maybe copper would be the way to go , i have no experience with that at all but it could be my fall back treatment if this fails .

either way i will give updates as i go .

[bluelagoon]

I live in Canada and have to buy some meds here.And are much cheaper than in Canada...http://www.jehmco.com/html/medications.html And here a little more expensive..http://angelsplus.com/Meds.htm

[klr-dude]

i just bought some "wormer plus" from an aquarium supply store close by my house .

https://angelfins.ca/

they just moved in a new facility so things were not yet organised , they seem to have a lot of med's and food stuff .
check out their web page !

[klr-dude]

update :
i did some massive water changes 2 x 90% and scrubbed all my tanks and the filter system to get rid of the praziquantel which did not work and had build up on all surfaces .
i then ran a 2ppm. dose of PP .to clean my system .
this morning i dosed wormer plus , a flubendazole based medication and only 10 hrs later there is a remarkable improvement .
i'm cautiously optimistic that this actually does something .
none of my juveniles shows the typical signs of flukes and no signs that the medication is bothering them either .
do i finally see the end of this scourge ?

[sayid]

The trick is that you have to break the life cycle of the gill fluke ,2 ppm of PP for about 4 hours ( depends on your bioload ) will kill the fluke in the tank and the fish but their eggs will survive , i got some success with 2 ppm on day 1 ,day 4 ,day 8 ,day 12 ,day 16 and day 20 also treat all your equipment ,net,bucket etc with 20 ppm separately to stop cross contamination.

[smsimcik]

The trick is that you have to break the life cycle of the gill fluke ,2 ppm of PP for about 4 hours ( depends on your bioload ) will kill the fluke in the tank and the fish but their eggs will survive , i got some success with 2 ppm on day 1 ,day 4 ,day 8 ,day 12 ,day 16 and day 20 also treat all your equipment ,net,bucket etc with 20 ppm separately to stop cross contamination.

You're on the right track Sayid. It takes multiple doses of an oxidizer like PP or formalin over a long period to wipe out flukes completely. Treating a few times with any fluke medication only knocks down the fluke population for a few days. It doesn't cure the problem for good.

Andrew Soh's treatment for flukes is the only one I've ever found to be effective in curing a fluke infestation. It's described in this old thread, post#5. http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showthread.php?75687-gill-flukes-and-operculum&p=593409#post593409

[sayid]

You're on the right track Sayid. It takes multiple doses of an oxidizer like PP or formalin over a long period to wipe out flukes completely. Treating a few times with any fluke medication only knocks down the fluke population for a few days. It doesn't cure the problem for good.

Andrew Soh's treatment for flukes is the only one I've ever found to be effective in curing a fluke infestation. It's described in this old thread, post#5. http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showthread.php?75687-gill-flukes-and-operculum&p=593409#post593409

spot on Steve

Well i decided to go through the PP treatment along Andrew soh method, i did 2mg/l of PP on day 1, 4 , 7 ,11,14 in 20 g Q tank for 4 hours simultaneously treated the display tank with 20 mg/l of PP with all the equipment e.g hoses ,nets buckets etc to make sure that there is no cross contamination ,i gave minimum food and w/c of 90% every day ,i left the canister fillter on all the time but had couple of air stone on all the time ,there was a lot of oxidation in form of brown slug on the first few times but gradually both the display tank and the fish got cleaner and cleaner ,also i added 0.5 ml of normal salt to the tank after the w/c to take care of possible ammonia also help replenish the slime coat and stop possible infection , i am surprised how smooth it has gone ,i have not even experienced any stress ,after day 14 all my fish are breathing much much slower with much less effort ,i am going to increase the feed slowly and add the extra salt for 30 days more .i have treated the plants and the wood in a separate tank for 30 days and will gradually introduce it to the display tank.
I am extremely happy with the outcome even though it is still too soon to judge .
If any body has any comment/ question please let me know .

[jimg]

I tried for a couple years every suggested treatment and none worked except the kursuri wormer plus. but, for it to wipe out the flukes i had to use it ,if I remember right, once every 3 - 4 weeks for at least 8 months. no need to remove filters just large wc after a few days. i do not like pp treatments on fish.

[jimg]

just want to add too. I wouldn't treat small fish get rid of all that have it, clean up the parents then try again. maybe keep a couple to scope later on to see how treatment is going

[smsimcik]

I tried for a couple years every suggested treatment and none worked except the kursuri wormer plus. but, for it to wipe out the flukes i had to use it ,if I remember right, once every 3 - 4 weeks for at least 8 months. no need to remove filters just large wc after a few days. i do not like pp treatments on fish.

If you had luck with Kursuri Plus wormer, you were very lucky. It's nothing more than flubendazole and a buffer. There have been several articles in the veterinary journals in recent years about certain fluke populations becoming resistant to flubenbazole along with prazi and some of the organophosphtes. Those drugs have been on the market for so long, repeated treatments with them have allowed some flukes to develop resistance to them.
Oxidizers like PP and formalin are the only treatments flukes can't become resistant too.

[jimg]

i would not consider it lucky i have extensively gone through years of using different methods the one that works the least was pp which only burns the gills. i scoped for my results and also sent quite a few discus to various vets and university of fla lab,
if an oxidizer can melt a fluke imagine what it can do to the sensitive gill membranes. i can't tell you the many different methods I have had people come up with using like dmso with meds,cocktails of all sorts as well as many home mixtures none worked for me and I also tried different doses and durations of pp to know it don't work.

[smsimcik]

Ok dude, have it your way. Lol.

Andrew Soh is the one who came up with the treatment with oxidizers and tank disinfection, not me. It's not a 1 or 2 time treatment with PP. Go back and read the link I provided earlier that descibes his protocol. I'm pretty sure he has more knowledge and experience eraticating flukes than you and me put together.
Over the years I too have tried many treatments including flubendazole, ivermectin, fenbendazole, levamisole, organophosphates, praziquantel and dmso. The most effective was Andrew's method in that the flukes were never a problem after that. All the drugs I listed only gave temporary relief even after multiple repeated doses.

You are right that oxidizers can burn gills but they don't have to if dosed properly (2-4ppm). That's why Andrew recommends a salt treatment and a rest period after dosing with oxidizers. Even if the gills are damaged, they can quickly heal.
I have used his treatment method on my own discus and did not lose a single discus to gill damage or anything else.

I'm also a veterinarian and I have successfully treated several of my clients' discus using Andrew's method with minimal gill damage and no fish deaths.
I can't tell you how much time and money my clients have wasted over the years treating a tank a few times with Prazi Pro or Kursuri Plus wormer only to have flukes come back in a few weeks.

[jimg]

look "dude" LOL... I gave my advise from what has proven to work for me and that i do not like using pp or have ever seen it work, for me, i don't care what you read from anyone or anywhere I was giving my personal proven experience did not ask for you to stick your nose in an argue because you THINK your advise is better. I scoped after all treatments including andrew sohs, have you?, I doubt you know for a fact yours are fluke free . never met a real vet that follows what he read in a fish book lol! just the reason I don't post here, every time you do got some idiot with nothing better to do than argue about what thinks

[smsimcik]

Damn you're touchy.
If you don't want to use PP don't. Just because PP didn't work for you doesn't mean no one else should ever use it.
I was just relating my proven personal experience, same as you. I just wanted to share my experience and info with some of the newer folks here. I can see you're not interested in learning anything new, but maybe others here will give Soh's method a look.
And yes I do know how to use a microscope and know for a fact the fish are pretty much fluke free after they have been treated using Soh's method. At least they show no more symptoms, which is pretty much the goal.

[sayid]

I have used PP as well as kusuri and sterazin ( formalin based )and a few others, my understanding of the problem is that the fluke is not very difficult to eliminate but the difficulty is that the eggs will hatch in the mean time you will get cross contamination , so any of the above chemicals will kill the fluke but Andrew soh's method is about how to minimize cross contamination, eggs problems ,minimize gill damage but people have to under stand that they are dealing with poisons and these treatments are not walk in the park for the fish but if done carefully you might be lucky and get rid of flukes .
In my experience Andrew soh's method is the most effective approach.

[smsimcik]

Yes Sayid, adult flukes are relatively easy to kill. Provided you are using a drug they haven't developed resistance to. It's the hard-to-kill eggs that that cause problems with recurrence.

[klr-dude]

well guys
after 2 weeks of dosing wormer plus , it is clear that this does not work either .
so i am closing my system down and wonder how to kill all my fish in the most humane manner .
there is about 100 of them .
i have exhausted all options .
i also have my system for sale , 37 tanks , central filtration ,cost about $20,000.- to build .

[brewmaster15]

well guys
after 2 weeks of dosing wormer plus , it is clear that this does not work either .
so i am closing my system down and wonder how to kill all my fish in the most humane manner .
there is about 100 of them .
i have exhausted all options .
i also have my system for sale , 37 tanks , central filtration ,cost about $20,000.- to build .

Flukes can be very hard to eradicate. Frustrating as all heck. In most cases though discus will carry them asymptomatic unless there is a heavy infestation or they are fry.

It sounds like youve tried everything but I wonder if you tried a simple salt dip to new clean tanks. Much like with pp flukes can not become immune to Salt. They can not become immune to salt's osmotic effects nor pps oxidizing. Salt dips are probably the most over looked and most useful tool for external parasites. They are labor intensive but if your fish are valuable to you it may be worth trying.

Also you are in Canada?...Have you contacted University of Guelph? maybe they can help.Hobbyists here in the past have gotten help there.

My last suggestion. If you have truly tried all these treatments and they dont work you have got to have the some seriously tough flukes.Its not at all common for resistence to everything to occur like this.Resistence has been reported to various things but mechanical killers like pp or salt dips is just not something resistence is likely in. More likely is an insufficient treatment regime...so I would look closer there... but still another option for you even if all this is a fact and you have super bugs is to artificially hatch your pairs eggs. Start your hatchery over without losing your current stock. Its the number one benefit of artificial rearing. It also will let you restock quickly.

Some thoughts as Id hate to see you throw in the towel over a nuisance parasite like flukes.

hth,
Al

[jimg]

may be possible your main problem is not flukes, but that's what you are seeing scoping. when they are weakened by other means it is possible flukes will take advantage. If you did the fluke treatments, either of them, and saw a break in whatever they are doing to make you feel flukes are whats bothering them, ie erratic swimming darting, scripting against objects etc, for a short while then I would think your right about flukes, but if it made no improvement that lasted a few weeks or so I would look at something else effecting them. I agree will Al on the salt dips I have always had my greatest success with 3% salt dips for unknown problems like things I could never find bacteria wise or scoping. I would think some other type of protists or whatever, I never had just salt dip eradicate flukes like wormer plus did, but possible. I have sucsessfully quite a few times treated the darting ,flashing, swimming upside down in circles etc with salt dips, even dime size wild altums. The only thing I see a task is to treat all of them with salt dips. maybe like I mentioned earlier keep just the parents lose the rest start over in clean tanks after each treatment. I would do 3% salt dips every other day for at least 3 treatments them into cleaned tanks no filters just massive 2X daily water changes if you see improvement go on to wormer plus for about 8 months like the directions suggest. just curious didn't you see improvements with the formalin?

[klr-dude]

i heard that salt does not kill gill flukes .
so what is the point , transferring the fish with flukes from tank to tank ?
i don't get it .

[klr-dude]

you can't buy formalin in canada anymore , neither can you buy malachite green .
i used what i had and that was it .
too bad , our government is protecting us from ourselves .
BTW gill flukes are hard to miss , in the last 6 months i have never seen a juvenile without them and i sacrificed about 80 by now .
like i said in my original post they had life flukes before during and after 1 hr., 2hrs ., 6hrs , 12hrs , 24 hrs.
just skin scrapes shows nothing , but the gills are inundated .
i just now noticed a slight reduction in flukes by dosing 10 times the flubendasole , you can't see the back of the tanks anymore so much of the powder is in the water , oddly enough i had 2 pair spawning ,....figure that !
i'm starting to wonder if all those medications actually have any active ingredient .
i might be medicating with talcum powder ,.....who knows ?

[Altum Nut]

Sorry your having this issue klr-dude. You should talk to Jarmila at AngelFins in Guelph and see if she has a contact with University Of Guelph as Al recommended. Jarmila carries meds https://angelfins.ca/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=11&zenid=905ecd9e1c615e74fa7a46e1979c2a0f

Hope you sort out your issues without having to close shop.

...Ralph

[jimg]

my point is maybe the flukes may very well be there but that might not be what is the majority of the problem. I'm suggesting something else is bothering them. they can have flukes all their lives and never show symptoms. Is it really bothering the fish or bothering you that you know they're there? I'm meaning doing the dips them transferring them into clean tanks to see if you can knock down whatever else may be affecting them. then deal with the flukes in long term treatments which will be needed. many times too when we treat the fish we expect to see no flukes within a couple days when they meds may not actually kill them instantly like bee spray. I never studied exactly how each med works, maybe some treatment sterilize the parasites so they live but can't reproduce or you may be seeing newly hatched parasites. that is what I like the long treatments. short treatments may not kill the tougher ones but longer treatments will. again I wouldn't waste time with the juveniles I'd be sure their gill are severely damaged and other organs from the meds.

[klr-dude]

Sorry your having this issue klr-dude. You should talk to Jarmila at AngelFins in Guelph and see if she has a contact with University Of Guelph as Al recommended. Jarmila carries meds https://angelfins.ca/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=11&zenid=905ecd9e1c615e74fa7a46e1979c2a0f

Hope you sort out your issues without having to close shop.

...Ralph

i used to have a good relationship with the university of guelph , heck i knew some of the guys by name , they did some microscopy for me , nothing major , 5-10 min. of their time and i brought them sometimes coffee and doughnuts .
but apparently there has been progress at the university of guelph .
now they don't even want to talk to you ,"we don't do work for the public anymore " although they have no problem taking the public's tax money .
so screw them !
i never want to talk to these jack asses anymore , they are a waste of time .
as far as i'm concerned they can defund the whole lot .

[klr-dude]

thank you for your comment and you are right that it bothers me more than the fish , there is no question about it .
however it bothers me to such an extend that i can't get rid of these little fookers , i would not have a cat or dog in my house if they had flees or lice .
there is no other things that i know of , my water is perfect , they are actually beautiful fish any discus lover will see that at first glance .
the thing is i have build this state of the art facility to do some breeding for my own recreation and now all the juveniles are stunted and in poor health and it bothers me .
i did not go trough this just to have a few adults swim around , if i can't breed them it is not my hobby anymore , if you know what i mean , you go trough all that work , see them spawning fanning the eggs take care of their fry , you do your water changes grow baby brine shrimp in short a lot of work and dedication and 4 weeks after they are all swimming with their gills out and clearly suffering and that pisses me off , i don't want it to sound to bitter .
i actually killed all the fish in my quarantine tank already to make space , and i am running bleach through it , but i'm not sure how to get any fish clean before i put them in .
buying new stock is not an option , that is how i got it in the first place . :(

[smsimcik]

i heard that salt does not kill gill flukes .
so what is the point , transferring the fish with flukes from tank to tank ?
i don't get it .

Not sure were you heard that. Salt at .3% (2.4 teaspoons/gal of water) as a long term bath will absolutely kill adult flukes. You can also use a 3% salt solution (24 teaspoons/gal of water) as a dip for a few minutes.
Salt won't kill eggs. That's why you have to treat for adult flukes, move the fish to a clean, sterile tank, and then nuke everything in the old tank.
And you have to repeat this process every week or so for about 6 treatments.
It's the whole theory behind Andrew Soh's treatment and why it works so well.
Here's the link once again to his fluke treatment in case you want to review it.

http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showthread.php?75687-gill-flukes-and-operculum&p=593409#post593409

[sayid]

Not sure were you heard that. Salt at .3% (2.4 teaspoons/gal of water) as a long term bath will absolutely kill adult flukes. You can also use a 3% salt solution (24 teaspoons/gal of water) as a dip for a few minutes.
Salt won't kill eggs. That's why you have to treat for adult flukes, move the fish to a clean, sterile tank, and then nuke everything in the old tank.
And you have to repeat this process every week or so for about 6 treatments.
It's the whole theory behind Andrew Soh's treatment and why it works so well.
Here's the link once again to his fluke treatment in case you want to review it.

http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showthread.php?75687-gill-flukes-and-operculum&p=593409#post593409

+1
I have done exactly that 7 month ago and so far no sign of any fluke.

[sayid]

Correction ;
I meant i did andrew soh's method using PP and so far very happy.

[klr-dude]

Not sure were you heard that. Salt at .3% (2.4 teaspoons/gal of water) as a long term bath will absolutely kill adult flukes. You can also use a 3% salt solution (24 teaspoons/gal of water) as a dip for a few minutes.
Salt won't kill eggs. That's why you have to treat for adult flukes, move the fish to a clean, sterile tank, and then nuke everything in the old tank.
And you have to repeat this process every week or so for about 6 treatments.
It's the whole theory behind Andrew Soh's treatment and why it works so well.
Here's the link once again to his fluke treatment in case you want to review it.

http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showthread.php?75687-gill-flukes-and-operculum&p=593409#post593409

thank you for your input unfortunately i used up my last PP this morning and since i live in a socialist country (canada )i cant buy that anymore either .
what i did is i went to the farm supply store and told them i wanted to buy 20 liters (5 gal.) of formaldehyde for the o'll cow farm , no problem whatsoever , good thing i have a country site address .
sooooo , now i have formaldehyde 37% , i could use this to sterilize the system while the fish are in their temporary sterile tank .
also salt is not prohibited yet .
i have two grow out tanks 450 liters each and i can install 2 sponge filters and a heater as a clean tank .
i have 22 adult fish (11 pair ) and about 50 nice juveniles that i really want to keep for future breeding .
it will be crowded but i can do 50% water change 2 times per day .
i'm undecided what would be better use formaldehyde or bleach to clean the fluke eggs out of my system , your opinion would be appreciated , since i can not find what kills the eggs with certainty .
bleach would be hard to get rid off i suppose .

[smsimcik]

Bleach would be my choice to sterilize your tanks and equipment. It's not that hard to get rid of. Just rinse everything with water and let air dry for a few days to allow the chlorine to evaporate. You can also use a dechlorinator when you refill the tanks if you are worried about residual chlorine.
Formaldehyde probably would work on fluke eggs but I'm not sure what the dosage would be. Be careful handling it. It can burn your skin and mucous membranes. It's also carcinogenic. I'm surprised you can get formaldehyde in the socialist republic of Canada but can't get PP. Formaldehyde 37% is relatively more dangerous than PP to handle. In the US, formaldehyde is much more difficult to obtain than PP.
Good luck with your treatment. You sound like you have a really nice breeding operation going and are dedicated to preserving it. You should try to post pictures if you get a chance.

[klr-dude]

Bleach would be my choice to sterilize your tanks and equipment. It's not that hard to get rid of. Just rinse everything with water and let air dry for a few days to allow the chlorine to evaporate. You can also use a dechlorinator when you refill the tanks if you are worried about residual chlorine.
Formaldehyde probably would work on fluke eggs but I'm not sure what the dosage would be. Be careful handling it. It can burn your skin and mucous membranes. It's also carcinogenic. I'm surprised you can get formaldehyde in the socialist republic of Canada but can't get PP. Formaldehyde 37% is relatively more dangerous than PP to handle. In the US, formaldehyde is much more difficult to obtain than PP.
Good luck with your treatment. You sound like you have a really nice breeding operation going and are dedicated to preserving it. You should try to post pictures if you get a chance.

yes it is a nice system , everybody that has seen it says it's one of the best they have seen .
i dont know how to post pictures .
i can ask somebody else i guess .
like i said i told them i was a dairy farmer , insane that you cant buy 16 aunces in the aquarium store but 20 liters (5 gal )is ok .

[Emanresu]

Just curious, any final results? Were you able to rid flukes from your system? If so, what was effective?

Thanks,

-E

[klr-dude]

Just curious, any final results? Were you able to rid flukes from your system? If so, what was effective?

Thanks,

-E

yes , i got rid of them by dosing the whole system with potassium permanganate .
i took all the survivors and put them in a few large tanks , 4 days later i transferred them to the next tank ect.
meanwhile i ran a massive dose though my system for a few hrs. and neutralized it with hydrogen peroxide .
it took 5 months before i had a successful spawn and now i'm building my stock back up .

[LizStreithorst]

I'm glad you had success. I love PP for flukes.

[Emanresu]

yes , i got rid of them by dosing the whole system with potassium permanganate .
i took all the survivors and put them in a few large tanks , 4 days later i transferred them to the next tank ect.
meanwhile i ran a massive dose though my system for a few hrs. and neutralized it with hydrogen peroxide .
it took 5 months before i had a successful spawn and now i'm building my stock back up .

Thank you for your response! I just got some PP to start treating for flukes as well. I assume the discus got a PP bath as well as all the tanks? Thankfully, I have the ability to tank swap as needed.

[klr-dude]

Thank you for your response! I just got some PP to start treating for flukes as well. I assume the discus got a PP bath as well as all the tanks? Thankfully, I have the ability to tank swap as needed.

hi
gabriel posada from watley discus has a nice video about it .
do not overdose and repeat every week for several weeks , this should get rid of them .
https://i.ytimg.com/an_webp/uSnfElvMjQo/mqdefault_6s.webp?du=3000&sqp=CNDmmOgF&rs=AOn4CLCsdGc95WReJ5jIo6GhW3EB5NDykw
hope the link works for you !

[Artur]

How many times have you treated them and then moved to next tank to eradicate flukes?

[Artur]

yes , i got rid of them by dosing the whole system with potassium permanganate .
i took all the survivors and put them in a few large tanks , 4 days later i transferred them to the next tank ect.
meanwhile i ran a massive dose though my system for a few hrs. and neutralized it with hydrogen peroxide .
it took 5 months before i had a successful spawn and now i'm building my stock back up .

How many times have you treated them and then moved to next tank to eradicate flukes?