View Full Version : A month in the game....
spartyblaze
01-08-2003, 01:48 PM
Okay, I've been caring for a blue turqoise for a month yesterday, and am pleased to help that hours on simply discus.com has made it a much easier experience.
Although I have yet to go to a bare bottom tank (I know, I know it's preferred but I can't bring myself to get rid of my aquascape just yet) My fish looks happier every day, and I've been giving him 25% fresh water every evening. My method is:
In the morning fill a bucket w HOT water and a thermometer, add Prime to it and wait till the evening, at which point I drain the tank and replace with fresh water.
I know many people in the forums use aeration and heating units for their aged water and I'm wondering what the potential dangers are of my method. I've been searching for a way to create a drip system with a 10g or something, but I lack the room for any extra tanks at this point. Any suggestions?
As always, all opinions are appreciated.
Ryan
Oh yea, my setup:
20g w/standard lighting
Floralite substrate
1 Rio 50 Internal Filter
1 Penguin Mini HOB - sponge intake, for bio
UGF powered by 2 High powered air pumps - I think I should remove the UGF's and go with sponge filters, as most user seem to do - What do you think about that? Should I keep the UGF and add sponge or do away with it and replace with sponge?
1 aeration stone
PH: 7.5
No traceable nitrates/ammonia/nitrites
Ralph
01-08-2003, 04:26 PM
I'll give this a try.
You are right about the UGF, I think that they are losing favor with all aquarist. The water agitation is also hard on CO2 levels for the plants. (Put you fish in another tank until the process of changing your tank is over).
Your WC method sound fine, a 25% daily change is well within most acceptable ranges. Most people use aeration to remove chlorine from their tap water but some use Prime. I've never heard anything about negative longterm effects. You should be fine.
How old is your discus? Is there just one? Most discus keepers recommend a minimum of four or five, for social interaction. I know it means a bigger tank, a lot of us here though have gone through those same steps.
Keep up on the water changes and feed him well and keep reading!
Ut-oh another Ryan on board. ;)
Welcome to Simply Sparty! :wave:
I see we have another Discus addict in the making. With that thought... I predict you too will be part of the bb gang eventually. I have not tried the drip system yet but stick around as I am sure you will get the answers you desire....
Take care and enjoy....
Julz :)
Smokey
01-08-2003, 05:18 PM
Howdy spartyblaze ;
Your method of ageing the replacement water sounds o.k.. Perhaps, if you could add a small airstone, to provide a water current; this will elimated "cold water settling" and ensure the Prime is throughly mixed. Also, CO2 will be driven off.
Concerning the UFG..... DANGER !!!!!. One cannot simply unplug the air supply. All the bacteria and " MUNG " which is in the "UFG" will result in a "DEADLY SOUP"! IMO, you will have to remove the gravel, plate, and CLEAN...Clean.. Which means you may loose your good "NITRIFING BACTERIA".
However; you will remove all the little things that go "BUMP-IN-THE-NIGHT". UGF are notorious for spawing worms and some types of copieds(spelling?).
Defiently the addition of air driven sponge filters will support all you nitrifing/oxygen needs.
P.S.- the sponge intake on the Penguin - I believe this is more efficient as a mechanical filter than bio-logical.
Ralph has covered some very important points to seriously consider.
You are on the right track, Ryan. Good luck
Smokey
spartyblaze
01-08-2003, 06:02 PM
Yes, I agree with the UGF removal thing. I've kept Africans for about 6 years now, and believe it or not this is the first UGF that I've ever tried (only because the tank was given to me w/the UGF and I figured "what the hell, I'll try it") Now onto removing it, I've researched fairly well what to do, and I'm sure the next time I find a few minutes to undertake a project like this, I'll carefully get her out of there.
I realize that the discus social interaction is dependant on each other, but this being my first venture into the art, I decided to keep it to one fish that so that I could put into the extra tank I had at the time (I have a 55 or a 40 tall that most likely wil soon succomb to these beautiful creatures, but will have to find good homes for a group of Tangs that I've grown to love over the past years, and we all know it's hard to pass your babies along to someone else).
By any chance is the social activity of the discus similar to that of the tropheus? I KNOW that a single tropheus species in a mixed tank has little chance of long term survial, but I'm not sure if the discus carries the same personna. If this is true, I should put my backup plan into a little higher gear.
Also some of you mentioned putting the fish into another tank while doing water changes. This seems like it would stress the fish to be yanked from his enviornment daily. Is this true? I haven't noticed any strange behavior during or after WC's, but does everyone reccomend this practice? I'm not sure of the exact age of my fish, but his body length is about 2 1/2 - 3" and I don't think he'd hold up too well if I slapped him into a 'warzone' of red zebras, johannis and neets - even if it was for a few minutes while I freshened his water.
Smokey
01-08-2003, 07:05 PM
(Put you fish in another tank until the process of changing your tank is over).
I believe Ralph meant to transfer the discus when you rebuild the 20 G.... Not durning W/C's.
I totally agree, that the discus will have to be put into another container, while you "STRIP" THE 20g. Just syphon off some water and trans fer the discus. It is for only a short period of time!!!
Ralph
01-08-2003, 07:14 PM
Smokey is right, I meant while you take out the UGF and redo your tank.
The survival rate of a lone discus would depend on the individual discus and it's age. A young one like yours would certainly do better in a small school. I don't know if it is an emergency situation, but maybe the sooner, the better.
Ryan, you have received good advice here, but I would like to add---If your water suply has chloramine, then you will need a dechlorinator and prime is the best IMO.
Your "aged" water method is definitely lacking. Aeration, or some type of circulation is needed to keep the water from being stagnant----bacteria will grow. Depending on how you have gotten the hot water may also be flawed. If it was from the hot water heater, then you could possibly have more than a trace of copper in it. ( not good at all )
IME, a single fish like a sheltered only child, will not interact well at a later time when others are placed with them. The one problem you won't have aggression unless the Turquoise is into self-mutilation. The fish will decide the tank is its domain and typically rough up any new kids on the block!
The UGF has got to go! They clog up and soon --major problems but you figured this one out yourself. Take Care, joe
law15
01-09-2003, 04:58 PM
Good luck Ryan-
Like you, I am a novice with only three more weeks experience than you! I can't believe how addicted I have become to these fish. My wife thinks I'm crazy and the kids know better than to run near the tank. I have visited this site many times before I got my discus, thanks to all you veterans out there for your knowledge. ;)
vBulletin® v3.6.10, Copyright ©2000-2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.