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GulfCoastDiscus
12-10-2003, 12:25 AM
Hello Friends,
I am moving to a brand new house at the end of the month and would like to know the best way to insulate the aluminum door of the garage. The deed restriction does not allow garage to be converted to any other use, so inclosing is out.

I thought about putting the exterior styro insulation but doesn't it need air space between the metal door and insulation for it to work?
Living in Texas, I kinda like the idea of being able to open the garage door and letting in the natural heat in the summer but in the winter it gets a little chilly sometimes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Dan

Carol_Roberts
12-10-2003, 12:43 AM
I bet you could cut styrofoam panels to fit the garage door and still allow it to open

Steve_Warner
12-10-2003, 01:17 AM
Hi all,
Dan, I did my two doors myself with a few 4 X 8 sheets of 1 inch foam board from H.D. I cut them into the proper sizes after measuring (THRICE) and they fit in good. If I had a section that had a break in it or something, I just split the foam into two or three pieces and wedged them in. It does a great job of insulating my garage and stays in the door very well. I don't have any pieces fall ever. I checked the temp guages on my dual readout digi thermo in the garage. One sensor is on the unit hanging on my wall in the garage, one sensor is on a tethered cord outside. The outside temp now(9pm) in Vegas is 40.3 F, the indoor temp is 73.9 F. It stays pretty warm in there, especially with car engine heat. HTH

Steve

Steve_Warner
12-10-2003, 01:18 AM
closeup of a door panel

GulfCoastDiscus
12-10-2003, 01:37 AM
Thanks Steve. That looks nice and clean. Where did you buy those styrofoam. The ones I see at HD are 1/2" thick and color pink.

Again thanks,
Dan

Steve_Warner
12-10-2003, 01:54 AM
Hi all,
Dan, HD has these as well. Ask an employee where the 4 X 8' foam board sheets are in varying thickness(near lumber area, I believe). I paid about 8 bucks a sheet if I remember correctly. I used a fish filet knife to cut the pieces, as a razor blade or box cuttter wasn't good enough and the foam splintered. The filet knife worked like a charm ;)


Steve

daninthesand
12-10-2003, 03:23 AM
A filet knife! Of course what a great idea!

I did exactly the same thing to insulate my garage doors too. In my case I used that pink stuff (Styrofoam SM, also in blue) which has a higher R rating (insulating factor) than the same thickness of the regular styrofoam. Its a few bucks more per sheet, but I find it easier to work with and cut.

Once you cut a piece to size, don't try and fit it into and behind the door support beams as one single large piece. Cut it in half and stuff each half in. The two pieces will fit exactly tight to each other with no air psace for cold to get through.

In my case I used a trick I learnt a long time ago....I take a wide bladed putty knife (3" or so) and use a grinder or file to sharpen one of the SIDE edges: from the working edge up to the handle. The wide blade makes for a nice stiff cutting tool, and the thinness of it goes through the foam cleanly. And sharpening the blade on the side does not render the tool useless for its normal use as a putty knife.

But if you have a filet knife just use that!

HTH.

Daniel

GulfCoastDiscus
12-10-2003, 08:59 AM
Thank you Daniel and Steve. Terrific ideas.

My only question is that I thought that for insulation to work well there has to be a layer of air between the exterior wall and the insulating material? Another thing what did you guys do with the egde of the garage door. Doesn't cold air seeps into the garage? Did you still have to add a space heater in the winter and a/c unit in the summer?
I know all these questions. Thank you for all ya'll help. In my current home I enclose the garage with no problems. Enclosing added an additional wall to put tanks in. With the new garage, did you guys use that area?

dan

daninthesand
12-10-2003, 11:17 AM
Dan

The need for an airspace betwen the outside wall and the insulation becomes important in cases where humidity buildup may be a problem AND the insulating material is rendered inneffective IF it gets wet. For example: In an attic where you are using the traditional fiberglass "wool" in a narrow area that might have humidity buildup (usually due to poor vapour barrier). You need the airspace to ventilate the insulation to keep it dry.

In our case the vapour barrier IS the insulation, and there's no worry about humidity reducing the insulating value of the foam board. It does not lose its R value regardless of how wet it is. So the air space is not needed.

For the seam between the garage door and the door frame I used a product available at most diy home hardware places (home depot) made exactly for that purpose. Its a self adhesive roll of foam tape (looks like a grey sponge) that is about 1/4 inch thick and 1 1/4 inches wide. Simply cut the stuff to length, remove the backing and press it into place on the door frame where the door rests against the frame. The foam tape is available in different widths and thicknesses. If your house is new then hopefully the space between the door and frame is narrow and you can get away with the thinner stuff. Most garage doors come away from the frame as the door opens. So when it closess it gets closer and should tightly butt against the foam for a nice tight seal.

Also if your garage door has no weather seal at the bottom against the floor, you should get a seal for that too. ALso available at home depot.

For heat I use a 220v construction heater in the winter months to keep the garage just above freezing (keeps the paint and other products from being ruined). If I actually go in there to work, i just turn up the heat untill i leave. Obviously there's no fish in there!

My garage is well insulated so I don't need to cool it in the summer. Its usually colder in there than outside.

HTH

Daniel

GulfCoastDiscus
12-10-2003, 12:19 PM
Thank you mucho Daniel. Great advice. Now I have on install a sink and water line, run some electrical wires. I have a lot work ahead of me. It's a beautiful two car garage with windows already installed. I would love to have a sky light for natural lighting but deed restriction won't allow it. :( I'll post pics of the progress. Thanks again

dan

daninthesand
12-10-2003, 12:22 PM
Glad to help. :)

Daniel

jeep
12-10-2003, 12:23 PM
The foil backed air bubble insulation is great. I can't remember what you call it, but the foil re-directs heat back into the room while the air in the bubbles is a great insulation barrier. At 1/4" thick, it has the insulation value of 10" of fiberglass insulation.

Brian

GulfCoastDiscus
12-10-2003, 02:04 PM
Hi Jeep,
By any chance you know where I can get a hold of this foil back air bubble. Does HD or Loews sell this item. I might try to use this material along with the styro.

Thanks

Dan

daninthesand
12-10-2003, 02:18 PM
Home depot does carry that foil stuff. I chose not to use it for two reasons. Cost and difficulty of application. The stuff I saw seemed difficult to apply. My doors are metal and would not accept screws or nails without them poke through to the outside.

But if you use the foam first and then applied the foil bubble wrap to the styrofoam, that might be easier and provide a great combined insulating factor!

Daniel

jeep
12-10-2003, 02:48 PM
The HD in my area does not carry the stuff. I got it at Lowes in a roll about 22" wide by 16' long. It cost $12.

I would use double sided tape to attach it or use the foam like Dan said.

The insulaution R-factor is fantastic with this stuff. I line my tanks with it.

GulfCoastDiscus
12-10-2003, 03:21 PM
What about if I sandwich the foil between the metal door and the foam? This way the foam will hold the the foil in place. It might just work.

Thank you guys. You guys are great ;) ;)

jeep
12-10-2003, 04:01 PM
Dan, the only way the foil insulation will be effective is if you eliminate all air-flow by sealing all four sides. This would mean using tape whether you use the foam board or not.

My only concern with using double sided tape is if you move and want to remove the tape. Kinda hard to get it all off...

Actually, come to think of it, if this will only be used as a fishroom and door won't be opened, then just seal the entire garage door in a large sheet of black or dark plastic. My guess is the door is already insulated. Seal it in plastic and you'll have your air insulation barrier and zero airflow.

daninthesand
12-10-2003, 05:50 PM
12 dollars?!?!? Yikes! Obviously not the stuff I was thinking about. The stuff I saw would have cost over 100 bucks just to do one garage door....


If I find the foil you are talking about, I'd use that for sure. Cheaper than styrofoam.

What is this stuff called exactly?

Daniel