PDA

View Full Version : Tank Valve



LEM504
02-25-2004, 03:50 AM
Tank shut-off.
I have moved up, from buckets, to hoses for the water changes.
Hose out the back door to the lawn, with a vacuum attachment, for drain.
Holding tank, with stock tank shut off valve. Pre mix hot and cold, treat for chlorine,
Let the pump run for a while, and re-fill the tanks.

( The Stock Tank Shut Off idea is from the website )

Tried hooking the fill hose in the tanks. Something always happens, and water on the floor! Thought about overflow pipes - more hoses.

Here is my solution. Anyone out there with a better idea - Iím all ears!

Stock Tank Shut off valve ( float valve ) - that clamps on the tank. Just move it from one tank to the next, when it quits. No wet floors.

Photo number one is the cheap one I use on the holding tank. The other is a plastic model with anti-siphon. ( the black pipe sticking out the top ). Both mount the same way, with metal brackets. I donít like the anti-siphon. It is the weak link in the pipe, sticks up too far, and blows water out the bleed hole. There is no way to eliminate the black pipe, as the valve is contained in it.

My homemade bracket, is made from a plastic cutting board, from Wal-mart.
Metal brackets that came with the valve are thrown out -
All of my tanks are glass. The white plastic between the two ears, hooks under the top lip of the tanks. ( to prevent the valve body from floating )
The front ( outside ) ear, is held with two loose screws, that gives a hinge effect.
The thumb nut clamps the two ears on the tank.

Note on the cutting board - Donít think any glue will stick to it. It will hold sheet metal screws. Fine machine threads will probably fail. It cuts and drills very easy.

Might be risky on a curved glass tank ( bow front ). The wide lips on a plexi-glass tank, will need a different approach.

Photo #3 shows the ears open. #4 shows them closed.

The whole trick, is figuring out how high to mount the valve, to get the right level in the tanks. ( try it on something outside, to get an idea where the shut off level is. Ií sure that every one of these is different )

Larry

LEM504
02-25-2004, 03:51 AM
Cheap valve

LEM504
02-25-2004, 03:52 AM
Mounted on tank

LEM504
02-25-2004, 03:54 AM
Jaws - ears open

LEM504
02-25-2004, 03:56 AM
Bottom of float valve

LEM504
02-26-2004, 11:41 AM
Another note on the Stock Tank Valves.
After three trips to the feed store, I found the best valve was also the cheapest!

The ones with the metal base are made of Aluminum. Looks like they will corrode and get ugly fast.

The ones with the Anti-Siphon pipe on the top are not needed. I ran into clearance problems with my stacked tanks. Other than that, they work fine. The Anti-Siphon is NOT needed, as the inlet is a couple inches above the water level, so there is no way they can back siphon. If you get the one with the anti-siphon, and it blows water out the bleed holes on the black pipe, a couple of wraps of black electrical tape will solve that.

Best one is the cheapest! About $7.00

Larry

LEM504
03-11-2004, 04:15 AM
I discovered today, that Python Hoses Will NOT handle house water pressure! Everything worked great until the valve cut the flow. Hose expanded to about three times normal. Was about to blow, when I shut if off.
Keep a close eye - if you try it!

Condition - Water house pressure one end.
Valve closed on the other end
Warm water ( about 90 deg )

Larry

ODwyerPW
03-12-2004, 01:00 PM
Larry,
Thank you for the post. I like it.