Easy to upgrade RO gdp capacity?

[Bruce]

Okay, big goof. Long story short - got the highest capacity RO Home Depot had to offer. Big mistake, only 10gpd, but I'm already using it and can't return it.

What's the easiest way to upgrade the capacity of the RO module? Its a GE model but can I just swap in a higher rated membrane from another maker? I don't see a sizing system, so should I assume that home-use models are of standard size? If I have to, I wouldn't mind getting a new proprietary module container, as they don't seem very expensive, but would I need to?

Relatedly; I notice that some 50gpd and 100 gpd membranes of the same make cost nearly the same. Would there be any reason why I shouldn't get the highest capacity which would fit in my current container?

Thanks for your patient help. I should have conducted some research on this forum before jumping into RO.



PS: why are flow restrictors used and do I need one? My household pressure is about 43psi. Conversely, do I need a pressure pump?

[Amadhunter]

Look in one of RandalB's posts, shoot him an e mail. He's the RO guru, and has great prices.
He just sent me an upgrad kit for mine, to 150gpd, for an RO unit I originally bought from him. :)

[RandalB]

Ooops! Missed this one, They are usually posted in my home, the water works section...

No problem though.

Bruce: in answer to your questions:

Okay, big goof. Long story short - got the highest capacity RO Home Depot had to offer. Big mistake, only 10gpd, but I'm already using it and can't return it.

>> You sure about that?

What's the easiest way to upgrade the capacity of the RO module? Its a GE model but can I just swap in a higher rated membrane from another maker? I don't see a sizing system, so should I assume that home-use models are of standard size? If I have to, I wouldn't mind getting a new proprietary module container, as they don't seem very expensive, but would I need to?

>> Switch the membrane and flow restrictor. Most household RO units use the same size membranes. Post a picture of yours and I can tell you if it's standard or not. You are correct, a new membrane housing is not that expensive.

Relatedly; I notice that some 50gpd and 100 gpd membranes of the same make cost nearly the same. Would there be any reason why I shouldn't get the highest capacity which would fit in my current container?

>> They cost almost exactly the same at wholesale. The only reason that you wouldn't want to get a 100GPD is the fact that they are less efficient than the smaller sizes. The 75 GPD membrane rejects 96-99% nominal, while the 100 does 90-95% nominal

Thanks for your patient help. I should have conducted some research on this forum before jumping into RO.

>> Unfortunately, Yes.

PS: why are flow restrictors used and do I need one? My household pressure is about 43psi. Conversely, do I need a pressure pump?

>> The flow restrictor has a critical function. It allows pressure to build inside the membrane housing while allowing some water to continue to flow through. This allows the RO unit to function while removing the concentrated water at the same time. If you didn't have the flow restrictor, the membrane would be destroyed within several days.

43 PSI is below rated pressure for most RO membranes, you will get less than rated water production from the unit with that pressure. Most Household RO units are rated from 50-65PSI. You probably don't need a booster, but it would increase the efficiency of your RO unit and save you $$ if you pay for your tapwater...

Post a picture of the unit, and I'll let you know if you can get away with a larger membrane.

>> One additional thing, some of the GE units that HD sell have a SINGLE prefilter! this will cause you problems in the long run if you are going to be using the unit a lot. They reduce the prefiltration capacity to 3500 Gallons at 4 PPM chlorine...

HTH,
RandalB

[Bruce]

Ooops! Missed this one, They are usually posted in my home, the water works section...

No problem though.

Bruce: in answer to your questions:

Okay, big goof. Long story short - got the highest capacity RO Home Depot had to offer. Big mistake, only 10gpd, but I'm already using it and can't return it.

>> You sure about that?

What's the easiest way to upgrade the capacity of the RO module? Its a GE model but can I just swap in a higher rated membrane from another maker? I don't see a sizing system, so should I assume that home-use models are of standard size? If I have to, I wouldn't mind getting a new proprietary module container, as they don't seem very expensive, but would I need to?

>> Switch the membrane and flow restrictor. Most household RO units use the same size membranes. Post a picture of yours and I can tell you if it's standard or not. You are correct, a new membrane housing is not that expensive.

Relatedly; I notice that some 50gpd and 100 gpd membranes of the same make cost nearly the same. Would there be any reason why I shouldn't get the highest capacity which would fit in my current container?

>> They cost almost exactly the same at wholesale. The only reason that you wouldn't want to get a 100GPD is the fact that they are less efficient than the smaller sizes. The 75 GPD membrane rejects 96-99% nominal, while the 100 does 90-95% nominal

Thanks for your patient help. I should have conducted some research on this forum before jumping into RO.

>> Unfortunately, Yes.

PS: why are flow restrictors used and do I need one? My household pressure is about 43psi. Conversely, do I need a pressure pump?

>> The flow restrictor has a critical function. It allows pressure to build inside the membrane housing while allowing some water to continue to flow through. This allows the RO unit to function while removing the concentrated water at the same time. If you didn't have the flow restrictor, the membrane would be destroyed within several days.

43 PSI is below rated pressure for most RO membranes, you will get less than rated water production from the unit with that pressure. Most Household RO units are rated from 50-65PSI. You probably don't need a booster, but it would increase the efficiency of your RO unit and save you $$ if you pay for your tapwater...

Post a picture of the unit, and I'll let you know if you can get away with a larger membrane.

>> One additional thing, some of the GE units that HD sell have a SINGLE prefilter! this will cause you problems in the long run if you are going to be using the unit a lot. They reduce the prefiltration capacity to 3500 Gallons at 4 PPM chlorine...

HTH,
RandalB


Thanks for your help Randal.
Here's a commercial pict of the RO membrane and it is indeed rated at 10gpd. I guess for a small family's drinking and cooking water, its plenty. Its a 3 stage model with the same identical combination-sediment/carbon filter (sediment cartridge containing activated carbon) for both the pre-filter and postfilter. It didn't make sense to me so I ordered a few oem connectors and rigged it up so that incoming water passes through both filters consecutively in an effort to reduce the chloramine and sediment levels (I've verified my water company uses chloramine) before it hits the membrane. The paperwork mentions chlorine maximum of 2.0ppm, but does't say whether that the amount the membrane will tolerate, or the amount the unit will pass through to output. Am I in the right direction? If its better to use a separate sediment cartridge followed by a carbon block cartridge, I can install those in place of the original cartridges as they become clogged. Does the membrane look like a universally interchangeable model?

While the above information would be useful to know, a new development might motivate me to purchase a more elaborate and efficient RO unit anyhow. My wife is a few months into her first pregnancy and read some scary labels on public water fountains in various parts of eastern Canada and New England while on vacation last month. It said that expecting mothers shouldn't drink from it because of high nitrates leading to the possibility of creating a "It's Alive" type of baby. She suddenly insisted yesterday that from now on she will only drink purified bottled water. She's not interested in my test kits but is willing to drink from an undersink RO unit (as opposed to drinking my "fishwater"). At this point, since my RO kit came w/ all the undersink fittings, drinking faucet and pressure container w/ shutoff, I think it makes more sense to re-convert my RO back to the original configuration to work under the sink and get a high capacity model just for the aquarium.

After looking into a few sites, Randal, it looks like you have an irresistable slate of offers, and everyone only has good things to say about their RO experience w/ you. I'm the impulsive type - so will it really still take 10-14 workdays to receive a unit from you? I'm a teacher and I start work soon, so it would be nice if it was possible to get it by the 20th. I'd like to order from you if I would be able to get it soon enough.

Thanks.
"Bruce"

PS. Randal, do you carry the level control combination shutoff switch and valve for the Aquatech 8800 pump, or would it be quicker if I order myself from elsewhere?

[RandalB]

Thanks for your help Randal.
Here's a commercial pict of the RO membrane and it is indeed rated at 10gpd. I guess for a small family's drinking and cooking water, its plenty. Its a 3 stage model with the same identical combination-sediment/carbon filter (sediment cartridge containing activated carbon) for both the pre-filter and postfilter. It didn't make sense to me so I ordered a few oem connectors and rigged it up so that incoming water passes through both filters consecutively in an effort to reduce the chloramine and sediment levels (I've verified my water company uses chloramine) before it hits the membrane. The paperwork mentions chlorine maximum of 2.0ppm, but does't say whether that the amount the membrane will tolerate, or the amount the unit will pass through to output. Am I in the right direction? If its better to use a separate sediment cartridge followed by a carbon block cartridge, I can install those in place of the original cartridges as they become clogged. Does the membrane look like a universally interchangeable model?
>> The membrane won't tolerate any chlorine... and it looks like a standard size. What are the measurements of it?

While the above information would be useful to know, a new development might motivate me to purchase a more elaborate and efficient RO unit anyhow. My wife is a few months into her first pregnancy and read some scary labels on public water fountains in various parts of eastern Canada and New England while on vacation last month. It said that expecting mothers shouldn't drink from it because of high nitrates leading to the possibility of creating a "It's Alive" type of baby. She suddenly insisted yesterday that from now on she will only drink purified bottled water. She's not interested in my test kits but is willing to drink from an undersink RO unit (as opposed to drinking my "fishwater"). At this point, since my RO kit came w/ all the undersink fittings, drinking faucet and pressure container w/ shutoff, I think it makes more sense to re-convert my RO back to the original configuration to work under the sink and get a high capacity model just for the aquarium.

>> Sounds like a good idea, but you can still increase the membrane size and still use the unit as an undersink drinking water source. That's what I do.. All it takes is a check valve, a "T" fitting and a Ball Valve.

After looking into a few sites, Randal, it looks like you have an irresistable slate of offers, and everyone only has good things to say about their RO experience w/ you. I'm the impulsive type - so will it really still take 10-14 workdays to receive a unit from you? I'm a teacher and I start work soon, so it would be nice if it was possible to get it by the 20th. I'd like to order from you if I would be able to get it soon enough.

>> That would all depend on where I am shipping it and how much you want to spend on shipping. Canadian shipping tends to take longer for some reason. I can usually get a unit in the mail within 2 days of getting the order. Figure an RO unit and Booster combo weighs 27 Lbs. It would cost plenty to next day or 2nd day it to Canada.

PS. Randal, do you carry the level control combination shutoff switch and valve for the Aquatech 8800 pump, or would it be quicker if I order myself from elsewhere?

I carry all those components and I am more than happy to work you up a package deal on them.

RandalB

[mench]

Ok Randal...flow restrictor.....where on the unit would it be located?Also on the membranes that I get from you there is a little plascit thingie with a small ,small hohe about 6 inches in length,that comes with the membrane...what the heck is it and what do I do whith it/
Thanks

Mench

[RandalB]

Mench,
The flow restrictor is usually in 1 of 3 places:

1) In the waste water fitting on the membrane housing
2) On the waste water line as a cylinder with a fitting on either end
3) In the flush valve

That little plastic thingy in with your membranes is a precision flow restrictor, you replace the existing one with it. The existing one will either look like #2 or will be a small plastic piece with a small hole in the center.

RandalB

[mench]

Thanks Randal,now could ya post a pic for us who can't seem to find it LOL

Mench

[RandalB]

Here's a pic of the type I use:

http://forum.simplydiscus.com//index.php?board=5;action=display;threadid=7886;sta rt=30

Second pic on the page

I don't use the other types but I have an example of the cylinder with fittings type somewhere in my rat's nest of an office (I replaced it for a buddy of mine with the right size after the E-bay seller he bought it from used the wrong one) I'll try to post a picture of it later today...

I don't have an example of the other type around so can't help you there...

As far as finding it goes,
Check the Waste Water fitting on the Membrane housing, check the waste line for the cylinder type and if the unit has a flush valve, it will be in the bypass section.

HTH,
RandalB

As far as finding it goes,