bubbles with water changes harmful?

[tpl*co]

I love my new python, but I notice that it airates the water a lot. I have tiny bubbles (OK, which cruner sang that song?) all over the aquarium, bubbling up from the plants and even some sticking on the fish. Is this harmful? My tetras, bristlenose and loaches love it but the jury is out on the discus (of course they get a lot of bubbles sticking on them). Any way I can tone down the bubble formation?

[oodi]

Don Ho!!! :D

I wouldn't worry about the bubbles... they won't harm the discus.

Judi
:)

[Larry Grenier]

I was going to say Don Lee :-)

[Barb Newell]

Do you age your water?

Barb

[jeep]

The bubbles are most likely Co2. A result of non-aged water???

[Milleruszk]

Are you mixing hot and cold tap water? I also get the "bubbles" when I use tap water. So far I have not had any problem with the bubbles. In fact last week I changed about 1/2 the water and filled up the tank with straight tap and my pair spawned that evening.

Tom

[DarkDiscus]

I have the same deal - though not so many as to actually cover the fish - and they don't mind in the least!

John

[jeep]

In my case I have noticed a peeling of the slime coat, although the discus don't react in a bad way...

[Don_Lee]

I cannot imagine the bubbles would be any problem...
Larry, are you picking on me??? LOL, :D

Don

[Larry Grenier]

Sorry Don... it just popped into my head

[Don_Lee]

LOL Larry.........I forgive you. But beware.........;)

[tpl*co]

I turn on the "fill" of the python so it is warm tap water, not aged. It comes out of a single handle faucet of the laundry sink. It seems to churn up the water pretty well (especially since I have the 100 foot one).

[goldengatediscus]

I refill my tank with water directly from the faucet. During the winter, there seems to be more CO2 in the water, (more bubbles). If I do a 50% water change, the fish don't seem to mind, but if I do a major water change like 75% or more, the bubbles stick on to the fish, and the slime coat peels off. It takes them about 30 minutes before they are back to normal, so I try not to change more than 50% at a time if I don't want to stress them.
Brigitte

[JeffreyRichard]

Most often this effect is the results of excessive gasses in water ... usually in the winter. It seems the colder the water, the more the dissolved gasses remain in suspension throughout your water system.

This can actually be harmful to your fish. I have experienced more than a handful of deaths attributed to bloat caused by severe gill irritation, which was the result of excessive gas bubble in the water ...I had a vet/biologist do a autopsy of some specimens ... this was her conclusion.

The solution is to de-gas the water ... either through aging or agitation. I USED to have an operational 1000 gallon vat which I fill with tap water using a float valve (which sprayed the water thus agitating it) and then using a Iwaki pump to circulate the water into my drip system. Fairly complicated and large scale, but solved the problem.

One could set up something on a smaller scale using 50 gallon drums or large stock tanks, and pumping water out of these. If you circulate the water several time through a column filled with bioballs or something similar, this will degas the water quickly.

[Spices]

In tribute to the "I have tiny bubbles" tune, I would say Ole' Blue Eyes (or maybe Mae West). ;)

I've seen these bubbles you're referring to. And I agree they are excessive gases that can cause bloating. Since I don't have a way to store water, I use pail buckets (3 gallons and two 5 gallons) to fill water and pour from one container to another. This releases the gases and then I pour slowly into the tank which further again removes the gases. All straight from tap water.
*A*

[Anonapersona]

exerpt from the Puregold site;

"GAS BUBBLE DISEASE
SYMPTOM: bubbles under the skin anywhere, but usually in the fins.

Gas bubble disease happens when the water is full of supersaturated gases. The fish swim into the area where the water is saturated (usually with nitrogen) and takes the gas up across the gills.

It is most often seen when water from deep wells is run directly into ponds or tanks. In the deep well, the water is colder (more gas is dissolved) and under pressure (more gas is dissolved). In tanks, the fine bubbles are seen on the tank walls and everything else and is obvious.

In ponds, a small leak in big pumps that suck air into the stream of water an also create supersaturated conditions, as can swimming pool type sand filters.

Inside, aging water with an airstone degasses well water. For ponds, spraying the water into the air or using degassing columns (running the water over lava rock in a PVC pipe). "

[gators111]

Nevermind the bubbles

Why are you filling up your tank with water straight from the tap?

That water is way too unstable to be putting straight into a discus tank. Ph will change as the co2 offgases. And the temp drop isn't good either. Not to mention the chlorine/chloramines going into the system, even if it is for just a minute or two.

Furthermore, I doubt that the ph is anywhere near 6, and that the gh is <5. Please, go get some water containers and age your water, either through aeration or time.

[JeffreyRichard]

Nevermind the bubbles

Why are you filling up your tank with water straight from the tap?

That water is way too unstable to be putting straight into a discus tank. Ph will change as the co2 offgases. And the temp drop isn't good either. Not to mention the chlorine/chloramines going into the system, even if it is for just a minute or two.

Furthermore, I doubt that the ph is anywhere near 6, and that the gh is <5. Please, go get some water containers and age your water, either through aeration or time.

The stability of tap water depends entirely on the water you are using. My tap water has very little CO2 in it, and has NO chlorine ... I'm at the end of the line coming from the water treatment facility. I also have relatively soft, but alkaline water. (pH9.5 out of the tap, 120 ppm). My pH drops when it sits. Other systems differ ... some have no buffering capacity so there will be a big pH swings

[RyanH]

I have to agree with Jeffrey here. Everybody's water is different. Aging water is necessary in many instances... but not all. It is usually a recommended practice for new people in the hobby until they are comfortable with their water chemistry and their fish.

My tap water shifts from 7.2 to 7.3 or 7.4 after 24 hours of heavy aeration. Sometimes it won't move at all. This is an insignificant shift in pH IMO and does not warrant aging. However, in my previous residence, if I hadn't aged my water it could have killed my fish because the pH dropped that much.

People need to get familiar with their own water before deciding what is best for them. Buy a good test kit or meter and use it often. Call your water treatment plant and request a detailed parameter sheet on your water. They will usually do this for you for free. If you have a well, have your water checked at a lab. Basically, do your homework.

JMHO
-Ryan

[Anonapersona]

Ditto here, my water is 7.8 from the tap, 8.0 aged, 7.9 in the fish tank, so tap water is closer in pH to the tank than aged water.

I do 50% water changes every other day on the discus tanks using tap water.

[goldengatediscus]

Some people just don't have the space to store and age water overnight. Yes, that is probably the best way to do a water change, but a lot of folks add straight tap water into the tanks with dechlorinator. The fish just have to deal with it! But, I agree with Jeffrey.

[tpl*co]

Thanks, that's my problem, If I have 2 tanks and daily changes, where do I store the water??? (plus having all that water just sitting there taking space without fish in it!). I do test and my water is around 4.5 gh with the pH around 7.6. I haven't tested it within 24 hours of direct from tap to sitting out of tap though. Before I had the python, I did the bucket brigade and didn't have this problem. It also says on the python that it aerates the water (boy does it ever), so maybe it is something the python is just doing? I'm also using a different tap than I used before for water changes, could this make a difference? I also make sure that the temp is the same as the tank. Before I start adding water, I put my Prime directly in the tank and then direct the new water in the same area.

[Tiptoptank]

I just started doing staight tap water last week and also noticed the intant pearling crazyness that incured. MY Ph went from 6.8 to 6.4t, to 7.0 then back to 6.8 which is nothing. I just keep enough crushed coral in the filter to rectify any problems

[Carol_Roberts]

6.4 in the tank to 7.0 in the tank is a pretty big swing . . . .

[GEM]

HI SLOW THE RATE OFF FLOW OF WATER FROM THE PYTHON AND SEE IF THAT TAKES CARE OF SOME OF THE BUBBLES.




GORDON

[David N]

I go straight from the tap. Bubbles are definately worse in the winter. If I do more than 50% change the fish lose a little slime coat but the fish are fine within 10 to 20 minutes. I don't think the python has anything to do with bubbles since the bubbles are dissolved gas. I have 6 tanks going and change 50% three times a week. NYC tap water for those that want to know. Also, wouldn't have room for big storage vats of water.
David N

[Audrey]

My angels and discus (not kept together) peck at the tiny bubbles after a water change, must think they are food. LOL

[Mr. Limpet]

I can't believe no one got the answer yet.
It was Don Ho.
His trademark song.
Didn't anybody see the Brady Bunch Reunion a few months ago?

As far as Bubbles. I think you guys covered all the bases.
Topm each his own, once you figure it out.

Paul.

[Audrey]

Oodi got the answer right. Second post, under your original one.

Oodi is the winner!!!!! Way ta go, Oodi!!

[Mr. Limpet]

Sorry Oodi!!
I even looked back through a second time to see if anyone got it, I guess I need either more coffee, or to pay a little closer attention. Or I need to find those darn glasses of mine.
Humbly, Mr.Limpet.