Quarentine on a shoestring?

[markwill]

This has come up in a seperate (unrelated) thread so I thought I'd create a specific thread. I've also hunted through the quarentine information in the beginners sticky links - but can't find any answer to this specific question. So, here goes...

How closely should a quarentine tank mirror that of the tank in which discus will eventually be located? For example, I just spent too much (!) on a new 72 gallon "showtank". Things are going reasonably well but now I am interested - thanks to the prompting of others here - in setting up a quarentine tank. But cost is something of an issue after the expenditure of the last month or so. So, what is the minimum that would realistically do the trick?

What size tank would do the trick, on the assumption that the largest single group I would ever want to quarentine would be, say, 6 discus, with 5" probably being the largest (I doubt I would ever buy 6 that large at once)?

Do I need anything other than a heater and a filter (I was thinking of one of the smaller Aquaclear filters)?

To what degree does a discus notice / get stressed by a switch from a completely bare tank to the showtank in which they will eventually live.

I am concerned about the cost of all the "peripheral" equipment associated with a quarentine tank - seperate hoses, net, etc, etc. It all adds up. For example, I age my water for my show tank in a 33 gallon barrel (works great). Do I need to do this all over again, albeit with a smaller barrel, just to make sure the "water regime" in the quarentine tank is the same as the show tank? This could be the "deal breaker" from a wife perspective - I already take up a lot of space! :-(

Anyway, logistical advice very welcome. How do I implement quarentine on a shoestring, without compromising it's value?

Thanks.

Mark

[Howie_W]

Hi Mark,

I completly understand your dilemma.

One thing to keep in mind; A second tank designed to be used for quarantine and/or a hospital tank is a short term set-up. Once it has served it's purpose, it can be broken down, and placed out of the way until you need it again.

You don need much; tank, sponge filter, air pump, heater, and thermometer. When it comes to fish keeping, you always need to be prepared. Having extra sponges, heaters, etc. is also a must in the event of equipment failure or an emergency.


Howie

[brewmaster15]

Hi,
A Qt tank needs only clean water, heater and cycled filter. Air driven sponge filters are fine. 20 gal tanks work great for single adult fish, or small groupsof juvies. For a group of 5-6 young adults or adults..I would go with a 55 gal tank....Buy used.

The tank does not need to mirror the permanent tank in any way..The less things in it the better. There will not be a stress issue in the move...I flip fish from tank to tank all the time. :)

separate hoses and buckets... hardware store...for about $6.00 are necessary, water storage...you can use the same you are using...or set up a rubbermaid pail as temp system..again cheap.


Remember the idea is to give the fish time to adjust without exposing your existing stock to a pathogen. and to treat if needed for anything serious....always remember to maintain separation of new stock from your stock.

hth,
al

[markwill]

Hi Mark,

I completly understand your dilemma.

One thing to keep in mind; A second tank designed to be used for quarantine and/or a hospital tank is a short term set-up. Once it has served it's purpose, it can be broken down, and placed out of the way until you need it again.

You don need much; tank, sponge filter, air pump, heater, and thermometer. When it comes to fish keeping, you always need to be prepared. Having extra sponges, heaters, etc. is also a must in the event of equipment failure or an emergency.


Howie
Thanks Howie. So, how would I put a new tank "into production"? I am particularly interested in the old issue of ensuring the filter is "cycled". So, let's say I decide today that I want new fish. Setting up the tank from fresh will, presumably, take a few weeks just to get the water right, yes? I assume that taking water from the show tank kinda defeats the purpose, doesn't it (the possibility introducing bad stuff in "reverse").

In terms of backup, my current tank has two heaters and two filters. One of the filters is a cannister and I plan to sell that (mainly because we are vulnerable to extended power cuts in the winter and the possibility of intruducing toxic bacteria after a power cut concerns me). I am thinking that nice, simple Aquaclears (which are pretty cheap) may be my "standard" filter.

Thanks again.

Mark

[Howie_W]

Mark,

I usually keep extra sponge filters running in all my tanks. When i need to set-up a new tank I just pull one of the sponges and presto, I'm good to go.

I've also been running bio wheels for many years...like sponges, they last forever, and the wheels can be transfered to a new tank as eaily as a sponge.


Howie

[markwill]

Mark,

I usually keep extra sponge filters running in all my tanks. When i need to set-up a new tank I just pull one of the sponges and presto, I'm good to go.

I've also been running bio wheels for many years...like sponges, they last forever, and the wheels can be transfered to a new tank as eaily as a sponge.

Howie
Thanks - we should just do Instant Messenger at this rate :-)

I'm a tad confused about moving sponges between tanks. Doesn't that introduce the possibility of moving parasites, etc between tanks? I thought the whole point of the quarentine/hospital tank was to keep them as seperate as possible.

Mark

[Howie_W]

The main purpose for quarantine is to avoid and/or reduce the risk of introducing new parasites into your existing set-up. At the same time it allows you the opportunity to acclimate new arrivals to your water conditions, observe their health, and administer any basic medications if needed . If you have a filter that's been running for a long period of time in an existing healthy environment you should be fine.


Howie

[Carol_Roberts]

Good advice everyone :)

[markwill]

Good advice, indeed. One question I had that I don't think has been answered yet is just what size tank I need? Assuming the aforementioned maximum of size "average sized" discus what can I get away with here? Without shooting myself in the foot (and having to buy something else later), I want to keep costs as low as possible.

Thanks.

Mark

[brewmaster15]

20 gal tanks work great for single adult fish, or small groupsof juvies. For a group of 5-6 young adults or adults..I would go with a 55 gal tank....Buy used. ;) :)

-al

[Carol_Roberts]

I use 29's or 55's

[markwill]

;) :)

-alOoopsss! Missed that somehow. Thanks :-)

[Howie_W]

A 55 gallon tank is a good size for quarantine, and a 29 gallon is a good size hospital tank.

The bigger the tank, the easier it is to maintain.

In addition, if you have any interest in planted show tanks, it helps to have separate quarantine tanks for them as well, not only for introducing community fish but also for new plant arrivals.


Howie