Measuring Device?

[K.Fawson]

PH,KH,GH, what measuring device should I use for a more accurate measurement? Right now I use Mardel 5 in 1 test strip and I really don't
know exactly what the measurements are or do I really need to be that specific?

[pcsb23]

Hi,
If I'm teaching you to suck eggs please accept my apology now! However here goes...

Firstly I don't know of the Mardel 5in1 strip so can't comment on that.

The reason fro testing is to understand your water and its parameters. The reason to do this is to provide stable water conditions for your discus. Stability is far more imprtant than having this ph or that hardness. Fluctuating water conditions create stres for the fish which lowers their immune system which leads to disease, which..... well you get the picture.

Now before we start to worry about GH & KH it is better to measure Ammonia NH3 and Nitrites NO2 and PH. These are the bare basics of things to minitor. I would also add a Chlorine/Chloramin test to that for your tap water or just use Prime!!

NH3 is toxic to fish and can be lethal at relatively small levels as is NO2 but not quite as deadly. Forgive me if you already know this but just in case eh?

Now to answer the PH/GH/KH bit...

Ph measure the water acidity or alkalinity, 7 is neutral neither acid nor alkaline, less than 7 is acid, more than 7 is alkaline. Now a change of ph of 1, say from 7 to 6 is a ten fold increase in acidity, ie a big change!

GH measure General Hardness (calcium and magnesium) and KH measure Carbonate hardness (bicarbonates). Togeher they are a measure of the waters hardness.

If your fish become unwell knowing your water params will assist greatly in treating the fish and should always be posted when asking for help.

Certain treatments can be dangerous at low ph and hardness for example.

To accurately (as far as we are concerned) measure them requires the appropriate test kit, I have used and can recommend both the Sera test kit and the Hagen kits. Also normally we only need to know hardness as ppm and not the various bits that constitute it so there are meters that can tell us this to quite a high degree of accuracy. The same applies to ph. I use a meter for ph and hardness but before treating I check with the test kits for the hardness make up.

Normally the meters need period calibration but it isn't difficult. Some hardness meters measure microsiems, to convert this to ppm divide by two or just work in ms. I use a Hanna combo meter which measure ph, hardness as microsiemens and ppm and tempindegrees f or c. It also auto corrects for temperature - good bit of kit.

Sorry for the long answer but hope it helps!!
Paul.

[K.Fawson]

It seems there is so much to check when it come to the make up of the water, I was trying to find a quick and easy way to measure the water chemistry in my tanks and my storage barrel. Thanks for the info Paul.

[pcsb23]

To be honest, once I know the basic of my water I do the rest with a PH meter and the conductivity meter, which in may case is one meter. I am taking it as given that the tank is fully cycled, ie no nitrites or ammonia. I only measure the ph to make sure the water has ged properly as I use RO water it seems to force more co2 in it and gives massive ph swings.

I only do the full test routine once a month or if I feel there is a problem developing.

hth,
Paul.

[Cosmo]

Some good info there from Paul... Thanks Paul :)

Bottom line, as stated above, when you are setting up a new aquarium, changing filters.. anything that may effect the bio balance, it's a REALLY good idea to test for ammonia, nitriites, and nitrates.

Once your tank is stable and you're familiar with your water chemistry, you basically just want to insure the water you add during WCs is stable and the ph, hardness, and temp are similar to the water it's replacing so as not to stress your fish..

I also use Hanna meters and only check the ph and tds (and temp) as a general rule.. since I use exclusively RO, I know exactly what the composition of the water is as I "create" it by adding hardness and KH and minerals during the reconstitution process.

Make sure you heat and aerate your storage tank water... the aeration will drive out the C02 and stabilize the water, and the heater will... well, heat the water to the correct temp lol

Jim

PS.. I use Prime "just in case" since my water supply contains chloramines which may result in ammonia slipping through into the storage bin.. better safe than sorry :)

[K.Fawson]

Right now I use straight RO water and add Discus Esentials and RO Right, should I be adding Prime also or just prime?(what is prime?)

Kay

[pcsb23]

Right now I use straight RO water and add Discus Esentials and RO Right, should I be adding Prime also or just prime?(what is prime?)

Kay
Kay,
What you are doing is fne, keep using the RO Right (re-mineraliser) and Discus Essentials (trace elements).
Prime is a water conditioner that basically locks up chlorine and chloramines. If vere you have an emergency and need to use tap water then Prime or similar MUST be used, its worth having a bottle on standby just in case!!
Paul.

[K.Fawson]

Paul,
Do you know if Discus Essentials or RO right affect the PH of the watter?
I seem to have 2 different readings from my tanks and my storage barrel.

[pcsb23]

Paul,
Do you know if Discus Essentials or RO right affect the PH of the watter?
I seem to have 2 different readings from my tanks and my storage barrel.
Certainly RO Right will to some degree, taking it towards neutral from acid or maybe slightly alkaline. not sure about discus essentials.

One of the reasons you may be getting different radings could be due to off gassing of co2. Water straight from an ro unit will usually be around 5.6ish ph. Try this, take some straight ro water diirectluy from the unit into a clean bucket. Measure the ph (around 5.5 to 6 I'm guessing) run an airstone in there on full. measure it again an hour or two later and it will be higher (6.8+ depending on original make up of minerals etc...) Thats the effect disolved co2 has. Depending on how much re-min you use depends where the ph ends up.
hth,
Paul.