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Lance_Krueger
02-04-2007, 12:17 AM
Okay, I thought I had this all planned out. Was going to have a breeder rack for my discus pairs, that holds two shelves of seven bare bottom 29 gallon tanks (total of 14 twenty nine gallon tanks). Each tank is drilled for a 1 inch bulkhead, and has an overflow attached to it. I've heard so much positive about using a central, wet/dry system on a breeder rack for discus, I was going to hook each breeder tank into a central system for just the breeder rack. Cary does it, Jason Niemi highly recommended it. But with a wet/dry, you're still left with nitrates, which you would have to keep low with water changes, I know. A friend of mine that used to be into discus, and is now into saltwater told me that I needed to look into freshwater refugiums. He told me they are the rage in saltwater tanks, and how they will allow you to go even a step further and have an even more natural filter to give the breeders and the fry even better water quality.
So here's my idea. I've got fourteen 29 gallon tanks, which comes out to about 400 gallons of water in the breeder tanks. Then, I'm going to build a sump beneath the rack, which will be 96 inches Long x 36 inches Wide x 12 inches High, which will be about 180 gallons. The total system (which includes all breeder tanks and sump) will be right around 600 gallons of water. I was thinking about making part of the sump a refugium, where I would have fast growing stem plants, and/or some floating plants. Since this is a breeder setup and I'll be keeping the microsiemens at 60-100 with R/O, the Ph will be acidic, so there will be ammonium instead of ammonia. So I've read that these plants will suck up the ammonium and the nitrate, which should give excellent water quality. I've been doing a lot of searching on the saltwater forums about refugiums and natural filtration, but this is saltwater info, not freshwater. Supposedly a lot of the info is interchangeable, but there are few scraps of info on people that have done this in freshwater, much less with discus, and no info especially on a large breeder discus rack like what I'm planning. I'm trying to figure out some of this stuff in my head before plunging into this and making some expensive mistakes, so here are some questions for you plant gurus:
1. How large should the refugium be? In the saltwater info I've been reading up on, they say 10-20 percent of the display tanks space, but I didn't know if that was right for freshwater. How large should I make the refugium, considering I'm making this huge sump homemade, and can make the refugium any size? Should I forget about a separate refugium, and just let the plants be in the entire sump? The saltwater guys say it has to be separate for the following reason in question #2.
2. The saltwater guys also say that the flow through the refugium should be about one turn per hour. In other words, if you have a 10 gallon refugium, the water flowing into it should be choked down to about 10 gallons per hour, with the remaining water going into the sump. Any thoughts on this?
3. I was thinking about using fast growing stem plants (maybe like Milfoil, Hornwort, water sprite, or anachris) in the refugium. Are there any recommendations for which of these stem plants (or any others I didn't mention) that would do good in the acidic, 82 degree discus waters? Also, do I need to plant these in some sort of substrate, or can they just float around in the water column of the refugium? If I need a substrate, what would you recommend?
4. Any thoughts on Deep Sand Beds (DSB's) in the freshwater refugium? It's supposed to rid the water of nitrates, but if the plants do this, then why would I need it? Or do they work hand-in-hand?
5. I also thought about using some floating plants, since they are supposedly great for taking up nutrients. I was thinking about water lettuce, or hyacinth, or duckweed. Would these be better than stem plants, or used in combination with stem plants, or would stem plants alone be the best? Which floating plants would work the best in the acidic, 82 degree discus water in my breeding rack? Obviously with floating plants, I would not need any kind of substrate, right?
6. I would want this plant scrubber filter to be as simple and low maintenance and low tech as possible. I don't want to dose anything (I figured the fish waste should be enough), and want to have the most basic (i.e. cheap) of lighting, but will get whatever the amount of lighting I need. Would this work? Or would I just be killing the plants by this setup?
7. Regarding lighting, should I have this going 24 hours a day, or just for half the day? The saltwater guys want you to have the light over your refugium going during the night hours, when the main display tanks light is off. They say that without a refugium, the PH drops during the night since the corals and live rock are producing CO2 at night (I think). With a refugium run in a reverse lighting cycle to the main tank, the Ph stays consistent, since the refugium combats the CO2 since it's absorbing any CO2 produced in the main tank during the night.
So, with my breeder setup, I will have no live rock, or coral, and not even a sponge filter running in each bare-bottom breeder tank. So should I run the light's 24 hours a day so the plants continuously produce oxygen and consume the ammonium and nitrate? Or are there problems for the plants doing this? One concern I have is algae may take over, but in a refugium, supposedly algae is a good thing because it is supposedly very good at eating up the nutrients too. Or should I run the lights only at night, or only during the day? If so, why?
8. I had originally thought of this as a central wet/dry setup. But now that I'm thinking about doing this natural veggie filter, is there a need for bio balls and a trickle tower? Or can I just use the plants as my 24 hour a day filter? The thing I want for this breeder setup is very good quality water, that is very consistent for the babies.
9. The way I've got this thing figured out, I have the capability of setting it up to do daily, automatic water changes of about 25% (by draining the sump). What I was concerned about is will this cause problems for the plants, since the water will have so few nutrients in it? Will the plants survive with 25% water changes with very pure R/O water?
10. One of the advantages of the refugium that the saltwater guys really love is that in their refugiums, they have all kinds of invertebrates living in the refugium that would normally get eaten in the display tank. These little critters, like shrimp and worms, and all kinds of critters are having baby's in the refugium, which flow into the display tank, and feed the corals. I thought this would be cool for my baby discus to have other kinds of live food available to them in the breeder tanks while on the backs of the parents. I would think about it as a 24 hour a day feeding setup. Better, I would think than putting baby brine shrimp in several times per day. So my question is, what kind of critters would I want to have in my refugium, to keep the plants healthy and to create a food source for my discus fry? I've read about Singapore, Cherry, Ghost, Glass and Amano Shrimp, and even Malaysian Trumpet Snails, freshwater clams and zebra mussels. Some have even mentioned blackworms and tubifex, but I don't know about those since the latter are known as disease carriers. I would think these last few would be good if you had a substrate, and I'm not sure if I need a substrate for what I'm doing here. Any thoughts on what might be good in my refugium to feed my discus babies?
I know these questions are long, but I tried to number them to make it easy to separate. Please let me know any thoughts. All info is appreciated.
Lance Krueger

Lance_Krueger
02-08-2007, 12:59 AM
So no one out there with any suggestions for this setup I describe? Please let me know your thoughts, on any part of this. :-)
Thanks,
Lance Krueger

kingborris
02-08-2007, 11:59 AM
Hi,

I run a kind of hydroponic plant scrubber on my display tank. its a bit different from what you describe, but the idea is the same... plants remove the unwanted nutrients.

I would use mainly floating plants, such as water lettuce and amazon frogbit (avoid duckweed. its a great nutrient sponge but a total PITA.. gets everywhere). floaters have direct access to atmospheric CO2, which speeds growth enormously. semi floaters (hornwart etc) will also work, and dont need to be planted. I would opt for no substrate at all. you may need to add the odd bit of iron to keep the plants strong, but that will be a 'suck it and see' situation and will in part depend on the nutrient content of what you are feeding.

The main thing you will need to provide is lighting. how much will depend on the design of your sump, and whether you go for floaters or a mix of both. i'd use Power Compact bulbs to provide the light as they are cheap and efficient.

if pH stability is an issue, it may be worth diving the system into two equally sized parts, and light each side for alternating 12hrs photoperiods. even floating plants will take CO2 from the water column, and thus raise pH at lights on. plants also respire at lights off, producing Co2 and lowering pH. most planted tanks with soft water crash at night. running two will offset this issue, as while one is using Co2 the other will produce it. It also means you have nitrate take up 24/7. I'm not too sure what would happen with a single 24hr photoperiod. most tropical aquatic plants have evolved for 10-12hrs of light pretty much constantly throughout the year (equatorial regions and the refractive /reflective properties of water / air boundries)

I would avoid a DSB. they can be pretty unstable in FW from what i've read, and the hydrogen sulphide (and subsequently sulphuric acid) that can be produced in anaerobic conditions wont do your fish any favours.


what ever you go for. i would have a decent sized biological filtration setup there as well. whtehr this is bioballs, sponges, expanded ceramics is immaterial. just make sure your system can be supported by this alone, just in case the plants die off for some reason (i've had a tank full of water lettuce die off within a week, no idea why). if the plants are doing well, then the loading on the biofilter will be reduced, but its still there should the system need it.

as for critters, the main problem will be the return pump mashing stuff up, but that may not be an issue. daphnia might be a good option, but daphnia need either green water or a ready supply of pulverised algae (spirulina or algae wafers work well... mash them up with water and squeeze through a fine mesh, like pantyhose material). green water would mean you cant see your breeders though ;). after a while you will probably pick up all manner of fauna. copepods, worms etc. what of this will make it through to the main tanks i dont know. avoid malaysian trumpet snails unless you have substrate. they love to burrow and can do a right number on the impellors of pumps if your not careful.

here is a rough outline of the kind of thing i'd do. yellow = lights, grey = biofilter media, brown = mechanical media, green = plants

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f135/kingborris/plantysump-2.jpg

hope thats of some help!

CliffsDiscus
02-08-2007, 12:05 PM
Lance,
Try the algae scrubber, it works great.

Cliff

Lance_Krueger
02-08-2007, 12:39 PM
Cliffsdiscus,
Are you talking an Adey type Algae scrubber? Can you add anything to this? Have you ever made one? If so, what was the setup? What kind of algae? Did you use a wave pattern with a bucket, or just flowed water over the algae? How large should it be? Any extra info would be helpful.
Thanks,
Lance Krueger

Lance_Krueger
02-08-2007, 01:00 PM
KingBorris,
Thank you so much for all the info. I really appreciate it.
I was thinking about using one type of plant, but maybe I should try a few different kinds, and see which thrives the best. What's the difference between frogbit and duckweed?
I was thinking no substrate, since it will be easier for me to clean the poop and mulm from the bottom of the sump.
Are there indicators to help me know if I need iron? Do the leaves yellow or something like that I'd need to watch for? I know next to nothing about plants.
Regarding PC's, I was thinking about using the full spectrum Vita-Lites, which are 5500K and have a CRI rating of 91. I've heard this is a good bulb. Any thoughts?
That's a great idea about splitting the two in half. I hadn't thought about that. Instead of having two separate refugiums (requiring two separate feed lines and two separate drain lines, could you have one large refugium, and just light the two halves separately? I was thinking you could have an opaque "blind" between the two, so light only hits one half of it, and then a timer would turn on the light from the other side, so you'd have alternating light cycles? That way you'd have one pool of water covered in plants, but the divider would be from the water line to up above the sump to keep light from shining on the other half. Don't know if this makes sense or not.
I think that's a good idea regarding having the wet/dry set up big enough to filter the whole system in case something happens to the plants. Heck, I've never kept plants, so I may not have any live. So, I need something that's going to be filtering the water, whether the plants survive or not. Good idea.
In that case, I don't want daphnia, as I want the water clear. Maybe green water and daphnia would be good for the baby's, but I couldn't keep an eye on them to know what's going on and if they're having problems, so I don't think this would be a good option.
Can you tell me what copepods are? Would I need to seed them with a culture? Would they turn into any flying insects or anything that would prey on my fry?
Yah, since I'm not going to go with any substrate, I would have no need for the Malaysian Trumpet snails. I think I'll try to stay away from any snails all together. And thank you for the picture. Very helpful.
Thanks again for your most helpful information. I greatly appreciate it!!!
Lance Krueger

kingborris
02-08-2007, 01:26 PM
hi Lance,

yup, plants will generally let you know what they are missing, as their growth will be stunted. yellowing often indicates low iron as you suggest. pin holes would indicate lack of potassium etc.

the bulbs sound ideal. you wont need a high colour temp, as the lights will just be for plants, rather than for viewing.

i think one sump with a light partition would work well (kind of what i had in mind anyway). that way, you could experiment and remove the partition and have 24/7 lighting, or 12 /12, or 18/18 etc. best plan is to play about and see how your plants fair. the more they grow, the more nutrients they will absorb.

you can probably do daphnia with the crushed algae wafer method, rather than green water. it creates some fine particlates, but nothing discus fry wouldnt eat anyway!

as for copepods. not sure how you'd get a starter culter TBH. i know marine keepers grow them in their fuges.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copepod

Cyclops may be another option. AFAIK, none of these are predatious at all (or at least, nowhere near big enough to bother fry)

HTH

JeffreyRichard
02-08-2007, 02:41 PM
Posted this on the Planted Tank forum ...

An interesting thread and concept ... I also breed discus (and angelfish), plus keep planted tanks, reef tank and a pond. I think your best source of inspiration and solution may come from the pond arena. Vegi filters are an established practice for keeping koi and goldfish ponds. What I've found is that Water Hyacants and Water Celery are efficient nitrogen consumers. Both thrive in my pond and bog ... water celery in particular is a nuesence in that it overruns my Iris'. Water Hyacants float in the pond, water celery grows in the pea gravel of my bog filter and in my Rubbermaid 100 gallon stock tank filter. Perhaps if you set up a sump/filter using a 100 gallon Rubbermaid stock tank, filling with a substrate such as pea gravel or lava rocks (biological filter medium) and grow Water Celery on this, and the use this in a central filtration setup, you'll have an effective vegi/biofilter. Add a second tank with just Water Hyacants and this could be very effective. Keep in mind, however, these plants require STRONG light, but they are both recognized as effective nitrogen removers/consumers. You really need to have volume if your going to filter a number of tanks. That is why I recommend the Stock Tank sumps. Plus, they are sturdy, easy to clean and you can pick them up relatively cheap if you look around.

You might want to consider adding free-floating Hygrophila to you tanks ... I have cuttings from my 55 "show" tank that have literally tanken over two 70 gallon growout tanks ... I illuminate these tanks with shoplights with 40 watt full spectrum bulbs, and the stuff grows like crazy. Even though I rarely test my water parameters (maybe 10 years ago???), I have to believe this stuff also consumes nitrogen.

Let me know if you pursue this avenue ... I'd be interested to know how you make out.

Lance_Krueger
02-08-2007, 04:47 PM
KingBorris,
Great ideas. The partition light blocker idea of playing with different proportions of light is another interesting idea. Not something I'd want to build into the refugium, but something easily movable and changeable.
Lance

Lance_Krueger
02-08-2007, 04:53 PM
Jeff Richard,
Wow, you have a lot of diversity in your fishkeeping. I'd like to have more than just discus, but I'm just so obsessed with them. Can't bring myself to committing a tank to anything else. But once my fishroom is full, it's full. So I'll have to expand to a planted tank in the house, and maybe a reef tank too. And then a pond for the yard. Since I live here at the bottom tip of Texas, down by Mexico, in the warm temperatures, I've thought about a discus pond. Wouldn't that be cool! I'd like it big enough so I could swim with them. I've actually dreamed of installing a full scale swimming pool, and having it for discus. Wife doesn't think that's a great idea, so I guess we need a swimming pool for the kids and a pond for me. One day....
Actually, a lot of the searching I've done on the internet has been to pond sites. I've seen the veggie filters there, and how they use lava rock and pea gravel in Rubbermaid stock tanks, but with my setup, I really don't have the room for it. I actually thought about doing a veggie filter outside the fishroom, in the great outdoors. Wouldn't have to worry about lighting, since the sun is the best light of all. I would just have to have a separate pump to send water to the outside veggie filter. I have a window in my garage/fishroom right by the breeder rack which I could crack open and run a feed and return hose to and from the veggie filter. Would make a nice garden feature. I've also heard them called bog gardens. I was just concerned about temperature fluctuations since it would be outside. Especially during winter. But down here in deep South Texas, we don't have all that bad of a winter. But I may need to heat the veggie filter during the winter, which isn't a big deal, I guess. The concept I am describing above is for a sump built directly beneath my breeder rack. Thus the 8 foot by 3 foot footprint of the sump, which is the footprint of my pallet rack that my breeder tanks are on. I only have 8 foot ceilings, so I have a top rack of seven 29 gallon breeder tanks, and a bottom rack which is about waist high to me. So below this bottom shelf of tanks is about 17 1/2 inches of space. So I figured I'd make the sump to where I have a few inches of working room, so I'm thinking the water level will be about 12 inches in the sump/refugium. But, if I want to take this a step further, I could always plumb in an outside stock tank veggie filter as you describe. But I think I'll just start out with this under the rack setup first. I think it may be overkill as is. Should this be successful, I may do it for my growout tanks and my adult tanks.
I think I understand how the reef setups work better now, because their bio filtration is in the sand and live rock, as you mention. So my biological filtration will need to be in my wet/dry trickle filters, which I'm planning to have as overhead bio towers above my breeder tanks. Since my sump is so shallow, and I have such limited space, I didn't have any height to put properly working bio towers. So I figured I'd put them in unused space above and behind the breeder tanks. Then the water from the bio towers will just flow into the tanks and through gravity head to the refugium and sump. One pump will run the whole deal.
Thank you so much for the info you provided. Very helpful info.
And yes, I will make sure to post my setup, when I get it done. Maybe it will get the ideas flowing through people's minds, and someone can improve on my test setup. We'll all learn from that!
All the best,
Lance Krueger

kingborris
02-09-2007, 05:39 AM
i guess my hydroponics system is a kind of vegi filter built into the tank... check it out http://www.tropicalfish.site5.com/tfc/showthread.php?t=79757

Lance_Krueger
02-09-2007, 12:42 PM
KB,
Wow, wow, WOW! is all I can say. That is an extremely impressive setup. Thank you so much for sharing! I bookmarked this page for future reference. Neat idea with the hydroponics section at the top.
Lance


i guess my hydroponics system is a kind of vegi filter built into the tank... check it out http://www.tropicalfish.site5.com/tfc/showthread.php?t=79757

Polar_Bear
02-09-2007, 02:59 PM
I have somewhat of a hybrid between Lance's and KB's systems. I haven't posted because it was literally just set up on Tuesday. The display tank is a 125 gallon, the refugium is a 55 gallon. Both are planted with the lights on for 12 hours each at opposite ends of the day (the 55 is on while the 125 is off) both are high light, CO2 injected. There are also two 55 gallon barrels and a 25 gallon final sump on the system.
Pictures;
1. Display Tank
2. 55 gallon barrels
3. Refugium
4. Final sump, which houses most of the heaters and 2 return pumps

So far, so good. btw this is also a drip system which recieves about 72 gallons a day of fresh water

Lance_Krueger
02-09-2007, 04:29 PM
Polar Bear,
Very interesting setup. Since you just set this up, and I can't ask too much about the long term about it, what was your reasoning behind doing each stage of this setup?
From what I can see in the photos, out of your display flows the water to the 55 gallon glass refugium, right? Or does the water flow to the two blue plastic drums, and then to the glass refugium? What is in the plastic barrels? Biological media (like bio balls, or something like that?), or what? And what are the blue barrels used for in this design, and how does the water flow through them? Do you have a substrate in the glass 55 refugium? What is it planted with? Is it lit? If so, how much? And was there a reason you used this size refugium, or was it just a tank you happened to have on hand, and size was not a consideration? Does all the water flow through the 55 that's coming from the display tank, or do you only channel some of the water through it (i.e. low flow)?
What is the final sump used for? What's in it, how is it designed? It looks to me that this is where you add CO2 and heat the water that's about to be returned to the display.
Please understand, I'm just trying to understand some of the logic of why you did what you did with this awesome setup. And why you didn't set things up another way. Or was all this just happenstance? Please share your thoughts, as this could be very helpful to me in trying to reason out why I should and shouldn't set things up in certain ways with my setup. Would be greatly appreciated.
Also, thanks so much for the pics, you have a very impressive planted discus tank there!
Lance Krueger