need some advice on lighting/canopy design

[Mike_T]

i'm currently building a custom stand for a 150. i need to draw up plans for the canopy soon and want to make sure i accomodate for the proper lighting setup and mounting. any advice on design, mounting, placement, and/or lighting setup would be greatly appreciated.

i haven't bought any lighting stuff yet, but this tank will be a heavily planted discus tank with CO2.

thanks for reading,

-mike

[greyhoundfan]

I don't have any design ideas... but I would go to a LFS and bring your digital camera with you. If you some canopies you like ask them to open it up and snap some shots of it.

Just tell them you need the pics to see if the decor will match your house..

[Ed13]

i'm currently building a custom stand for a 150. i need to draw up plans for the canopy soon and want to make sure i accomodate for the proper lighting setup and mounting. any advice on design, mounting, placement, and/or lighting setup would be greatly appreciated.

i haven't bought any lighting stuff yet, but this tank will be a heavily planted discus tank with CO2.

thanks for reading,

-mike
Well Mike,I'm afraid you'll need to get a more precise gameplan on of what you want/need in the light and design in order for us to help you out. For example flourescent lights will be more adequate for a canopy following a dutch setup. It is easiest to know what you'll need to put inside the canopy first and then designed accordingly. Of course easthethics will need to match the stand and you'll need access to feed etc and a way to remove it easily or hold it up while you work

Since you are not sure yet I'll think of it as an all light(from low to very high needs) high tech set up

So option 1
-2 x 150w Double ended Metal halides on an Lumenarc type reflectors running ADA 8,000k bulbs as a first choice, Second choice Iwasaki 6500K or any 10000k bulbs. Supplemental light could be in the form of 1-2 80w HOT5 with either 3000k-6500k rating, preferably on Ice caps ballast and their single parabolic reflectors


-A HOT5 only setup. Various 60" 80w bulbs, or various 48" 54ws, or an array of 36" 39w bulbs all on individual reflectors and prefferably Ice cap ballasts.

- Or a combo of Normal output flourescents, either PC's or linears of T8 or T12


Third option is the cheapest, second option is very efficient(in output and longevity), and the first will probably be the better looking in my opinion while the last two options will let you change the "effect" by playing with different bulbs. Of course you can always modified the otions here to suit your needs, I was just needlessly specific!lol:D


If you want a commercial fixture instead of retro kits let me know too

[Apistomaster]

HO T-5 lamps have the advantages of compactness, intensity, wide selection of spectrum, long life, cool running temps. and high efficiency.

[Mike_T]

once i can determine the best type of lighting for my needs, the canopy will be built to accommodate the lighting setup. i'm fine with staying with low light plants but i would like to have lots of them.

HO T-5 lamps sound good to me. what are some good sources? what are the drawbacks to these lights?

thanks much,

-mike

[Dissident]

Build it yourself, good call.
Having done so myself for HT Planted tanks here are just a couple suggestions that i learned from trial and error:

Quick and easy disconnects for the lighting for easy removal of the canopy system for planting, moving plants, substrate ferts, etc.
Mount ballests outside the canopy or in the stand.
If you use HID lighting be sure to have plenty of ventilation, they get HOT.
Make access to the tank through the canopy able to accommodate you being able to reach well into the tank.
Make sure the back of the canopy can accommodate and and all equipment you will have hanging over the top back of the tank.
Paint the inside white.
Frame it with 2x2 furring strips and use 1/4 inch panels (consider pressure treated 2x2 as long as there will be NO contact with the water). This will keep it light weight and easy to remove. On a 150gal maybe to it in 2 sections so you don't need a friend to help take it off like I do with my 110gal.

[Harriett]

Adding to what has already been said, I would say
1. Think out possible warpage of the canopy parts---what can warp will warp over time. Do not use solid wood for the canopy top, it may twist between the moisture and the heat from lights [mine has]--use high grade plywood. Consider carefully how the 2 x 2s or 2 x ?s [whatever] lay, so that components are in the least likely to warp position in the canopy.
2. Consider ventilation of the moisture/heat under there with venting hole patterns on the sides or lid, and whether/where you will want to use fans, as well.
3. Of course use waterproof glue
4. Use marine waterproofing or polyurethene on all wood surfaces.
5. Consider whether you want to attach the lights directly to the canopy or put in brackets and mount your lights on the underside of a shelf that can slide in and out the back of the canopy for tweaking/maintenance of the canopy.

Best regards
Harriett

[loggerbomb]

I like the shelf idea. I found this site (http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/management/darkdep_DIY_Stand_and_Canopy_Part_4.html) about a guy doing his own canopy.

Myself, I need to find a better light source. The tank I bought came with a rather nice canopy, but it only holds 2 40 watt bulbs, where as I'd like to at least double that number.

[Harriett]

Have you considered looking at A H Supply? The canopy I built for my big tank is 6 ft. long and I have 4 96w CF bulbs AH Supply bright lite sets attached to the shelf in the canopy with on/off switches for the front lights and the back lights. They have THE most reflective reflectors [?] I've ever seen, so the light really bounces down into the tank to get to the plants. With water displaced by the 3 inches of substrate more or less, that gives me about 2.4wpg. The bulbs last a long time--close to a year.
Best regards
Harriett