multiple tank filtering question..

[MRQuad]

guys, i am planning on setting up a 5 (29g) tank.. The one problem I don't have a good solution for yet is an economical way to filter them all. I was
considering a single wet-dry filter, but have no idea how to start and how the plumbing works, as i don't have experience in doing the plumbing..

this is a similar question that i got it off from the internet and edit some of it.. if you know some links, please, post it here, for my reference..

thanks!

[Graham]

It's fairly simple...all tanks overflow through a stand pipe of some kind down into a single large pipe that leads to main sump, The water then flows through mechanical and then bio-media to the pump.

The pump sends it back to the tanks via a single pipe thats tapped with valves above each tank.

This is a very simple sketch of what it would look like

[MRQuad]

It's fairly simple...all tanks overflow through a stand pipe of some kind down into a single large pipe that leads to main sump, The water then flows through mechanical and then bio-media to the pump.

The pump sends it back to the tanks via a single pipe thats tapped with valves above each tank.

This is a very simple sketch of what it would look like

thank you very very much sir.. that is really nice.. i will consider this, but if you have some more ideas, please throw it in..

[KDodds]

One problem with this method is that all tanks are in the same open loop. If one becomes infected, all become infected. Are you going with bare bottomed tanks in a breeding set up, or will you have more "community" tanks with substrate?

[MostlyDiscus]

I run a system that is central runs along the same lines as Graham's diaGraham. I have an open ended sump with a Laguna pond filter box that all of the water flows down and through. Felt prefilter with egg creat underneath the felt and under that large sponges. The sponges act as a mirco bio filter. The water flows to the next chamber with bio ball then another chamber with a large peat bag then out the Laguna and into the sump. Pump takes it back to the tanks via pvc and valves. JMO but I just dont worry about infection. I will never be anal enough to use all different nets, sponge filters etc. When I work on my tanks the hands go in and out as quickly as possible. If I had to wipe down my hands and arms for every tank it would take me 8hrs to do my maintenacne instead of 6 hrs. Keep in mind that a sump system will also allow you to have more water volume in general. If you go central make sure the prefilter is easy to get too. You want to change that daily.

Ed

[Dkarc@Aol.com]

One problem with this method is that all tanks are in the same open loop. If one becomes infected, all become infected. Are you going with bare bottomed tanks in a breeding set up, or will you have more "community" tanks with substrate?

Disease issues are always a concern when using a recirculating system. Proper QT is always essential. But just as important is stress management when dealing with any fish system (static aquarium or a recirc system like this). IMO, if they are going to use a recirc system like this it would be best if they filled it with a single source of fish....from one supplier, or from their own spawns. To do a proper QT in a recirc system is almost impossible, even if the specific tank is taken offline of the main system. So yes, Kieron I agree with you....disease issues are a major concern with this system if they arent careful. Granted, recirculating systems most definetly have their place in the aquatic industry.

-Ryan

[KDodds]

Without a doubt, most fish shops couldn't stay in business without them either. ;) Nothing wrong with the system at all, other than that it's the same as having one larger tank, for all intents and purposes. My thinking here is that if this is a BB breeding rack, independent filters driven by a single large air pump would work very well and minimize risk of cross contamination. If using substrate, independent in-tank powerheads would work well on a reverse UGF system, or even without the UGF plate if bioload is low. As well, independent in-tank "canisters" are also an option. That all is, if the intent is to minimize risks from one tank to the next.

[MRQuad]

i'm gonna be doing all barebottom.. if you suggest about the sponge filter that run with the air pump.. how do i make the tubing to supply all the tanks?

guys, sorry about this.. but i just don't have any clue about this tubing thing.. thanks in advance..

[Graham]

Hi You can buy or make up gang valves similar to this to feed the individual filters if that's the way you go.

http://www.fototime.com/543687316FE8550/standard.jpg

[brewmaster15]

Hi,
My tanks are all very low tech so take this with a grain of salt....you've already got some good advice here...but If these Tanks are for Breeding pairs of Discus... Probably the best system for the money is the simple air-driven sponge ...gang valves like Graham shows can be bought preplumbed from online shops like Jehmco.com for very little Money......Its more than adequate for a pair of discus with fry, IMO. Tanks can be plumbed and drilled for draining and filling....my personal preference is keeping my pairs separate...not the only way to do...but I like it that way.

If this is a breeding rack , you may want to re-think the design and maybe have a Grow out 75 Gallon tank on the bottom rack, and a series of Breeders on the top... Growing out discus to any large size is easier in larger tanks for most .

The Grow out bottom can be run off a wetdry, aquaclears etc or even just sponges.. Ideally I think you need to first figure out whats going inthe tanks, and how much bioload you plan on ...it'll help when you determine the best filtration.

hth,
al