water change tap water

[not so master reefer]

im getting water right from my kitchen faucet. i heard that it could be bad for my fishes because the city water have chlorine and chloramine. my question is do chlorine and chloramine evaporate if i leave my water in my 5 gallon bucket for 24 hours? if yes, do i still need to use water conditioner? what for?

[Eddie]

im getting water right from my kitchen faucet. i heard that it could be bad for my fishes because the city water have chlorine and chloramine. my question is do chlorine and chloramine evaporate if i leave my water in my 5 gallon bucket for 24 hours? if yes, do i still need to use water conditioner? what for?


Just put water conditioner in the tank before you fill the tank. All good.

Eddie

[srusso]

Is this really true? or is it only true for bare bottom tanks? Couldnt the tap do a lot of damage? I have read that you should never put tap into the tank

[Eddie]

Is this really true? or is it only true for bare bottom tanks? Couldnt the tap do a lot of damage? I have read that you should never put tap into the tank

Been doing it since I started keeping discus in 96. It boils down to your water source. Test your water. The most important aspect in water for discus is stability of PH. If you are working on breeding, then hardness comes into play but other than that, add a water conditioner and fill your tank. My PH doesn't move much over 24-48 and doing water changes every day keeps the PH constant.

Eddie

[csarkar001]

chlorine usually evaporates in still water but chloramine does not. if you contact your water company, you will be surprised by the level of detail they can give you as to how much of each your tap water has.

[srusso]

Yes, but the chlorine and stuff, doesnt this kill good bacteria in the gravel/sand, on drift wood even on the glass? Plus I have read that the chlorine burns the fish gills.... Have I doing extra work for nothing?

[csarkar001]

as eddie suggested, the water conditioner will neutralize both the chlorine and chloramine.

[Eddie]

Yes, but the chlorine and stuff, doesnt this kill good bacteria in the gravel/sand, on drift wood even on the glass? Plus I have read that the chlorine burns the fish gills.... Have I doing extra work for nothing?

If it did kill the good bacteria, my tanks would have always suffered. Establishing a good bacteria colony is essential. The conditioners do neutralize everything instantly. My fish have never been bothered because as stated, the conditioner instantly makes the water safe.


Eddie

[not so master reefer]

if tap water is bad, what water should i use? what kind of water conditioner are you using?do you prepare your water 24 hours before your water change? what are the other things i should worry on using tap water aside from chlorine and chloramine?

[Eddie]

if tap water is bad, what water should i use? what kind of water conditioner are you using?do you prepare your water 24 hours before your water change? what are the other things i should worry on using tap water aside from chlorine and chloramine?

Everybody's tap water is different. You will have to test your water to find out several important factors but some things may require a test or a talk with your local water company.

I do not age water, I used to before but since I do so frequent water changes my PH remains constant. My water has enough buffering capacity (KH) to avoid any swings in PH. An easy way for to test your water is to age it overnight in a container using an airstone. Check the PH and see what it does. Things such as Dissolved Organic Compounds (DOCs) can affect PH stability in an aquarium. So even after you do your test, you will need to run the test in your aquarium too. Add a water conditioner, fill it with tap and check your PH throughout the day, overnight, after 2 days or even more. You can see if your PH drops drastically from what it is from the tap. This will be your gauge for how you will need to perform water changes.


Eddie

[shawnhu]

Most people trust Prime as their water conditioner, as it does a lot, using a little. The company that makes this is Seachem.

What Eddie has said is true, the water conditioner will neutralize the bads for a period of 24 hrs, and prevent the disinfectants such as chlorine and chloramines killing your good bacteria, allowing them to continue doing their job.

Just make sure you add the conditioner to the tank first, and make sure you add the full amount required for the entire tank volume.

[calihawker]

There is no need to add enough de-chlorinator for the whole tank if you're only changing a small amount. If you change out 30 gallons then add enough de-chlor for 30 gallons. This time of the year you may want to add a bit more as the water companies up the amounts of chlorine or chloramines they add.

That's good to know Graham, Thanks! I was afraid I've not been adding enough.


Steve

[big mike 13]

i also had a question about water changes...
when i used to change my water and added water through the python, my whole tank would have bubbles and the fish would be extremely stressed out. since then, i now add water to a bucket and do the "bucket" method repeatedly, while splashing the water onto the python tube and into the tank, and the water and fish are fine..
is there anything i can do to the python to prevent the bubbles? im getting tired of running back and forth from the bathroom to the tank.

thanks

[robby ram]

im getting tired of running back and forth from the bathroom to the tank.




me too.

[Eddie]

i also had a question about water changes...
when i used to change my water and added water through the python, my whole tank would have bubbles and the fish would be extremely stressed out. since then, i now add water to a bucket and do the "bucket" method repeatedly, while splashing the water onto the python tube and into the tank, and the water and fish are fine..
is there anything i can do to the python to prevent the bubbles? im getting tired of running back and forth from the bathroom to the tank.

thanks

Man, that does not sound maintenance friendly. Why don't you just fill a huge tub near the tank and then run a pump/powerhead to pump the water up into the tank. Guess that would be alot like aging your water. :D

By the way, nice fish.

Eddie

[poconogal]

i also had a question about water changes...
when i used to change my water and added water through the python, my whole tank would have bubbles and the fish would be extremely stressed out. since then, i now add water to a bucket and do the "bucket" method repeatedly, while splashing the water onto the python tube and into the tank, and the water and fish are fine..
is there anything i can do to the python to prevent the bubbles? im getting tired of running back and forth from the bathroom to the tank.

thanks
There are a few things I do to eliminate almost all bubbles when refilling with my Python. I set my temp and run my water very, very slowly thru the Python. That helps to eliminate a good portion of the bubbles. I also have the Python's tube crammed into a tank corner at the tank bottom. That seems to help, the water coming out hits the glass first. Also, I have the tube half to two-thirds full in the tank. This part may sound confusing - when the water comes out of the hose into the tube section it then hits the line where the water in the tube starts. That also seems to help a lot.

Others put a nylon stocking over the end of the tube. I've tried that too and it did help.

[DiscusOnly]

I have a few ways to fill my tanks and the only part I use on the python is the hose.

Here is what I found helps:

1. If you are filling up the tank with a python, take out the large suction tube and fill the tank by putting the hose so that it's splashes on the side of the tank.

2. On my tank with a cannister filter, I added a valve before the filter intake. This is where I tap the python into to drain and fill the tank. When changing water, I close the eheim and have it unplugged. Turn on the ball valve and all the drain water is now going to the sink drain. When it's time to refill, the tank is actually refilled via the filter intake tube. I am going to add a 2nd ball valve so that I could re-fill using the return tube.

I find the temperature is very important as well. I use a thermostatic valve so that temperature out of the sink is about 84 degree.

I spend out 2 hours a day changing water so after a few weeks of practice, I get very little bubbles.

[AquatiCreations]

I have a question aswell, For those of us who don't have a fancy "Thermostatic Valve" How do you get the tap water to tank temperature before adding it? From what I understand,The copper plumbing that the hot water travels through can be harmfull to fish,and especially invertibrates.

[DiscusOnly]

I have a question aswell, For those of us who don't have a fancy "Thermostatic Valve" How do you get the tap water to tank temperature before adding it? From what I understand,The copper plumbing that the hot water travels through can be harmfull to fish,and especially invertibrates.


Never had had problem with using hot water that run through copper plumbing on my tanks. To get the correct temperature, just run your water a bit and test the temperature. I had to resort to using a valve because my temp flutuate too much when someone takes a shower or flush the toilet while I am doing my WC.

[AquatiCreations]

Awesome,Much appreciated vlam!

[big mike 13]

hmm.. just tried just the hose onto the glasss and it still seemed to bubble and my fish are behind the sponge filter hiding, with the slime coat coming off.. ill try the stocking next..

[Eddie]

hmm.. just tried just the hose onto the glasss and it still seemed to bubble and my fish are behind the sponge filter hiding, with the slime coat coming off.. ill try the stocking next..

If the slime coat is coming off, you may need to age your water.


Eddie

[big mike 13]

^but the slime coat only comes off when i use the python to add water.. when i add water with a bucket it doesnt come off and the fish are not hiding.

[freestylez_14]

when i change water i never have to use water conditioner unless im doing %100 water change. I changed %20 every second day and my fish are doing very fine. Saves me alot of money on water conditioner.

[Eddie]

when i change water i never have to use water conditioner unless im doing %100 water change. I changed %20 every second day and my fish are doing very fine. Saves me alot of money on water conditioner.

You may be saving your money but not your fish. I'd always add water conditioner if your water has chlorine/chloramines. Water conditioner also removes heavy metals depending on what brand. The small bit of stress from evidence of chemicals over time will take a toll and your fish can develop disease.

Eddie

[Daniella]

is it now? I have been doing this for 3 months and I have a shrimp that refuses to die. It went out of the aquarium twice. The last time I found it on the floor it was near death, all dried and was there probably for like 8 hours. I picked it up, put it back in the aquarium and it is as good as new, eating and everything.

I use a python and mix hot and cold water to the right temp by toutch. I verify often to make sure it is approximatly the same temp. To avoid air bubble, I tie a few coffee filter with a rubber band at the end of the tube and the water go through those 3 filters put up together.

I use non bleached filters biodegradable. There is not a trace of bubble that way and the water is filtered through the coffee filters and at the right temperature.

If there was any trace of copper my shrimp would be long gone. I have it for at least 2 months now. It has shed skin 3 times and it's big!






I have a question aswell, For those of us who don't have a fancy "Thermostatic Valve" How do you get the tap water to tank temperature before adding it? From what I understand,The copper plumbing that the hot water travels through can be harmfull to fish,and especially invertibrates.

[Daniella]

A good balance is to put half dosage of conditioner. I know my local petshop never use conditioner when they do their water change. they do it directly from tap but we don't have chloramine here, only a little chlorine. The water company said that within 3 hours the chlorine is gone. I would think it's not so strong here.




You may be saving your money but not your fish. I'd always add water conditioner if your water has chlorine/chloramines. Water conditioner also removes heavy metals depending on what brand. The small bit of stress from evidence of chemicals over time will take a toll and your fish can develop disease.

Eddie

[Eddie]

A good balance is to put half dosage of conditioner. I know my local petshop never use conditioner when they do their water change. they do it directly from tap but we don't have chloramine here, only a little chlorine. The water company said that within 3 hours the chlorine is gone. I would think it's not so strong here.

I guess you think the LFS is doing their fish a favor. Or are they just skimping on the conditioner to save money. LOL


A good balance is to use the recommended amount as stated on the bottle.

Good luck saving your cash on conditioner, but you'll need to spend it on new fish in time.

Eddie

[JimL]

This is just my personal preferance. I use the 5 gallon bucket method when doing WC. I change 20 % 3 times a week, Monday, Wedensday, Saturday. I clean filters on the first Saturday of the month, It's been working for me sense 1982.This just gives me a referance point to know what I'm suposed to do on what day. Yes I suffer from CRS. Today I have 5 tanks, 75gal, 55gal, 40gal, 12gal, 5gal. I like to age my water for my Discus tank (75 gallon tank, 20% wc = 15 gallons = 3 buckets) with heaters and powerheads. I test pH of aged water before use, and if needed I can make any adjustments. I'm lucky, my tap water is as such that I really only need to use de-clor, but I like to evaporate all colrine and cloramine that may be left, and I like to have the water temp the same as what is in the tank. I vacume the gravel when removing the water. I don't think BB tanks are for home use. Yes I can see a breaders need for it, having 500 fish in a 100 gallon tank, I just think that BB tanks look unnatural, and before I go BB I'll rip the grass out of my yard, so it's easier to pick up the dog poo, and as a bonus I won't have to mow it. It takes me less than 1 hour to change 20% of the water in all my tanks.

[Roxanne]

.before I go BB I'll rip the grass out of my yard, so it's easier to pick up the dog poo, and as a bonus I won't have to mow it. ...

lol :D

[KDodds]

Yes I can see a breaders need for it, having 500 fish in a 100 gallon tank, I just think that BB tanks look unnatural, and before I go BB I'll rip the grass out of my yard, so it's easier to pick up the dog poo, and as a bonus I won't have to mow it.

Double LOL... :D I hear ya, and that's one of the best analogies I've read re: bb. Mind if I reuse it?

[JimL]

Double LOL... :D I hear ya, and that's one of the best analogies I've read re: bb. Mind if I reuse it?

enjoy

[Don Trinko]

I age, airiate, and heat my wc water. The water is clorinated. I have a clorine test kit. Sometimes it takes 3 days before I can read zero clorine.
It's your money and your fish but I can not see skimping on declor for $50 to $150 fish. All of this IMO; Don T.

[bettebulldog]

If you age, airaite, and heat your water, do you need de-chlorinater?

[Roxanne]

..you do if the water contains chlorine/chloramine...

[KDodds]

Chlorine will dissipate on its own, usually, which is why most municpal water supplies are usaing it less and less, it's too unstable and doesn't stay around long enough to be as an effective a "purifier" as chloramine. Aging water was the old school way of dissipating chlorine. Nowadays, though, if you've a treated water supply, you'll need to use a chloramine neutralizer.

[Don Trinko]

I do not normaly use declor. Our village uses clorine only, no cloramines. If I need to make a wc before the clorine is gone I do use declor but normaly I do not do this. Don T.

[Roxanne]

How long does it take for your chlorine to dissipate Don, if you don't mind me asking?

Roxanne:)

[Don Trinko]

It takes 3 days before I get a zero reading for clorine. This is not a problem for me because I do two 50% wc per week. If I'm going out of town and I need to do an emmediate wc I use declore. ( Amaquel+)
I have 2 storage tanks; The upstairs is 33g and the basement is 64g. They are both heated and have an air stone. I should try a power head. It might eliminate the Cl quicker. I also keep my storage loosly covered. Taking the cover off might help. I recently got a carbon fiter that I can put inline if neccisary. It would eliminate the clorine before it gets into the storage container
I use a clorine test kit I got at Wallmart for testing pools and spas. I'm not sure how accurate it is but The level of Cl goes down each day and is zero after 3 days. It is possible that the level of Cl is low enough after 1 day but the kit is not accurate enough to tell how much clorine is in the water and I have not yet seen a "safe level" for clorine.
I have done wc after 2 days before I got the test kit with no ill effect.
Don T.

[JimL]

Chlorine will dissipate on its own, usually, which is why most municpal water supplies are usaing it less and less, it's too unstable and doesn't stay around long enough to be as an effective a "purifier" as chloramine. Aging water was the old school way of dissipating chlorine. Nowadays, though, if you've a treated water supply, you'll need to use a chloramine neutralizer.

The Chlorine bond to water is very weak. Thus the reason it only takes a few drops of a clorine remover, or letting the water age 24 hours to remove it. It may not be the greatest conditioner, but it's the best the PUD has. They have however found that Chlorine does bond better with Ammonia (chloramine) and Ammonia bonds better with water. But it is still being debated and not all PUD's share the belief it's better. The chlorine bond to Ammonia can also be broken, removing the chlorine, but leaving the Ammonia. This is why I do 20% WC three times a week rather than 50% once a week. With chloramine in my water I'm going to be adding the left over Ammonia in one strength or another to my tank, I prefer it to be less. The level of Ammonia however is low enough that 50% weekly WC is fine. For my Discus tank on the other hand, I use a Tap water Conditioner AND age water in 5 gallon buckets 48 hours, (I live alone so I get no static about them being in the bathroom) with heaters and powerheads. Yes I know this is over kill, and I know it comes from my old days when i had a Salt Water tank, none the less I sleep better at night knowing I've done my best to remove what chloramine I can.
Don't lose any sleep over copper from your pipes, it doesn't leach copper into the water in anyway near an ammount that would be hazordus to YOU or your fish.

[jesstray]

I have a 75 gallon which has been running for over 2 years. I change 50% of my water weekly and I never add any chemicals except a 1 Tablespoon of aquarium salt. I do however drain my water with a python and fill it very slowly. It usually takes about 10 hours to fill back up my tank.

[DiscusOnly]

I have a 75 gallon which has been running for over 2 years. I change 50% of my water weekly and I never add any chemicals except a 1 Tablespoon of aquarium salt. I do however drain my water with a python and fill it very slowly. It usually takes about 10 hours to fill back up my tank.

Not sure why you are adding aquarium salt. 10 hours to add 35 gallon is too long. Are you using an RO to fill the tank?

[jesstray]

Not sure why you are adding aquarium salt. 10 hours to add 35 gallon is too long. Are you using an RO to fill the tank?

I am adding aquarium salt as a prevention for pathogens (I also have 5 clown loaches which are vulnerable to ich) and for the electrolytes. I have very soft, alkaline water coming from my tap. My Rummy Noses seem to do a lot better with the salt also.

After a water change I fill my aquarium up very slowly from my tap. This is to avoid shocking my fish with too much chlorine and temperature deviation.