Chad Hughes
05-24-2009, 03:49 PM
I figured I'd start a new thread to discuss how I formulate my water for the contest discus planted tank. Actually I do this with all my discus tanks. Some people are very fortunate to have perfect discus tap. The water here in San Diego is very hard. Tap water measures 8.4 Ph with a KH of 8 and a GH in the teens. TDS of the tap is well over 600 ppm. Although this would be doable grow out water, I still alter it through RO/DI.
My RO tank is a 120 gallon upright neoprene potable water tank. Attached to that is a 5 stage RO unit that produces 150 gallons of zero TDS water daily. I also have tap water plumbed to this tank through a carbon block filter. Having both sources plumbed to the tank allows me to mix the high TDS water with the zero TDS water. Final product is in the 145 to 200 ppm TDS with a Ph of about 7. For breeders, I use less tap in the mix for a TDS of 70.
That water is circulated with a spa pump and heated with a 1000 watt pond heater. The heater is attached to a temperature controller that keeps the tank at a comfortable 83 degrees. I add 15 ml of Seachem Prime to the tank just before I am ready to use the water. I have a garden hose attached to the tank so when it's time for a water change, I roll out the hose, turn on the pump and out comes that perfect discus water!
Once the water is in discus tank, I add the following plant fertilizers to the sump:
Potassium Nitrate
Potassium Monophosphate
Magnesium Sulphate
Potassium Sulphate
Chelated Copper
Chelated Iron
Chelated Zinc
Molybdenum
Boron
The water circulating through the sump carries the fertilizer to the tank for plant use. I repeat the fertilizer dose three days later. On day 7 to 10 about 50% of the water is changed and the fertilizers are added again.
The water parameters of this tank are maintained as follows:
TDS: 145 ppm
KH: 50 ppm
GH: 85 ppm
Ph: 6.8 (CO2 influenced)
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
Phosphate: .25 ppm
The tank temperature is typically 85 to 86 degrees farenheit and has a 280 watt photoperiod of 10 hours. The night lighting consists of 4 blue LED lights integrated in the light strip.
That's about all I can think of for now. If I missed something, let me know and I'll be happy to add it to the list!
Best wishes!
My RO tank is a 120 gallon upright neoprene potable water tank. Attached to that is a 5 stage RO unit that produces 150 gallons of zero TDS water daily. I also have tap water plumbed to this tank through a carbon block filter. Having both sources plumbed to the tank allows me to mix the high TDS water with the zero TDS water. Final product is in the 145 to 200 ppm TDS with a Ph of about 7. For breeders, I use less tap in the mix for a TDS of 70.
That water is circulated with a spa pump and heated with a 1000 watt pond heater. The heater is attached to a temperature controller that keeps the tank at a comfortable 83 degrees. I add 15 ml of Seachem Prime to the tank just before I am ready to use the water. I have a garden hose attached to the tank so when it's time for a water change, I roll out the hose, turn on the pump and out comes that perfect discus water!
Once the water is in discus tank, I add the following plant fertilizers to the sump:
Potassium Nitrate
Potassium Monophosphate
Magnesium Sulphate
Potassium Sulphate
Chelated Copper
Chelated Iron
Chelated Zinc
Molybdenum
Boron
The water circulating through the sump carries the fertilizer to the tank for plant use. I repeat the fertilizer dose three days later. On day 7 to 10 about 50% of the water is changed and the fertilizers are added again.
The water parameters of this tank are maintained as follows:
TDS: 145 ppm
KH: 50 ppm
GH: 85 ppm
Ph: 6.8 (CO2 influenced)
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
Phosphate: .25 ppm
The tank temperature is typically 85 to 86 degrees farenheit and has a 280 watt photoperiod of 10 hours. The night lighting consists of 4 blue LED lights integrated in the light strip.
That's about all I can think of for now. If I missed something, let me know and I'll be happy to add it to the list!
Best wishes!