To reseal or not to reseal...that is the question

[wiifish]

I have a 65 gallon that used to be my marine tank of yester-years...I am all grown up and have kids and moved away for mommy and daddy's place ...about 15 years now...time flys:p When the tank was shut down 15 years ago, I kepted it outside on my parents porch. I live in Toronto, so snow and summer months have come and gone. 15 years later I now have it in my garage. This tank has seen some extreme heat and cold weather. I just setup it up and had it as leveled as possible and filled it up with 65 gallons of water...right to the rim. Now some of the upper edge..since the trims deteriorated and broke from the move...I notice some chips on the edges. I assume it is not a big deal if I don't fill it all the way to the top...it is approx 1 cm from the top edge. Anyhow, I did fill it up and seems ok as no leaks are found...or that I can see. I was not thinking and was cleaning the tanks outside glas and not sure if I left a little puddle.....I dried it up and will check to see if there is a leak or not. In any case, let's say there is NO leak.

1) Should I reseal the whole thing due to the exposure to extreme heat and cold?

2) How long is an adequate time to leave it in the garage to assure it's integrity..ie not having the tank blow up on me when I fill it up with water in my living room... 1 week, 2 weeks or more?

3) Finally...I mentioned as it is sitting on some 2x4's with 2 flat pieces of plywood to keep it sturdy...it is slightly off level.....will this weaken the silicone/ tank?

4) Where in toronto or online can I buy the trim for my tank. I remember years ago most LFS sell them by the foot and you cut/silicone yourself as you need. I went today and my LFS says they come premade, but not in my size.:mad:

Thanks!

[jerbear]

I have resealed tanks before and I find it is just not worth the time, effort and peace of mind.. Many times you can purchase new tanks at a $1 per gallon or find a good deal on craiglist or local fish forum..By the time your purchase sealant and a new frame + plus shipping, you will be into for $20 to $30..Just my experience and .02 .......Please of mind is worth a little more to me..

[wiifish]

I hear you jerbear....I did exactly what you did and guess what? Always need a spare tank. 4 tanks later and "hey wonder if I should reseal or use that 65 gallon in the garage?"
AND THE MADNESS BEGINS AGAIN!:D

[wiifish]

Just checked after a few hours...the tank is 100% leak proof. I am going to leave it there for as long as I can...I'll see if it's still ok.

[ockyra215]

i bought discus off a guy years ago and he threw in a 55 gallon tank.Well he said if you fill it more than 3/4 of the way up it leaks.So i resealed it and gave it to my buddy who lived in a 3rd floor apartment well needless to say we leak tested it and it was fine he filled it up with live rock it lasted about 24 hours and his nieghbors were pissed to say the least anyway I got the tank back resealed it again and tested it and it was fine so i guess the moral of this storie is if you reseal it do a good job and use extra silicone dont scimp:D

[bettebulldog]

The key is to remove the old silicone completely. Use a light acetone to remove all traces of silicone from the glass. This way the new silicone will adhere without any leaks.

[mench]

I just resealed my 90Gal so far ok..the secret is to really clean out as much of the old sealer as ya can..I took it all out of my 90 and resealed the whole thing...after getting rid of the sealer clean with some alcohol let dry and reseal

mench

[LizStreithorst]

Been there. If a a tank has been up and running and then been in storage for a long time, reseal. Trust me. It's not that hard to do and way easier than removing the fish, hauling it off the stand, re-sealing, and putting it back in place, and re introducing the fish. A good razor blade or two and silicone with funguside is all you need.

[underwaterforest]

Liz I assume you meant silicone without fungicide?

[KEWX]

When you clean out all the old silicone, the glass is still connected but there is a fine crevice or void between the pieces. What's holding it together? Would it help or hurt to run a bead of "crazy glue" down between the glass before the final silicone sealer?

[KEWX]

How about using "crazy glue"?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When you clean out all the old silicone, the glass is still connected but there is a fine crevice or void between the pieces. What's holding it together? Would it help or hurt to run a bead of "crazy glue" down between the glass before the final silicone sealer?

[Ed13]

Silicone degrades overtime, even faster underwater, period. An old tank NEEDS to be re-sealed whether it sat dry or not.


Need to remove the old silicone(REALLY IMPORTANT). Prep the joint by wipping it with acetone or alcohol to remove oil and dirt. Then apply new silicone. Depending on the silicone and thickness of it you need to let it sit for 24-72hrs or more untouched and some types need to "cure" from days to weeks before being tested. All depends on the type, temp and humidity.
Def the worst part of the job is to remove the old silicone.

As cheap as comercially available tanks are in the states the only obvious answer to whether re-seal a tank or not lies with large and custom tanks.

How about using "crazy glue"?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When you clean out all the old silicone, the glass is still connected but there is a fine crevice or void between the pieces. What's holding it together? Would it help or hurt to run a bead of "crazy glue" down between the glass before the final silicone sealer?
NO. Use silicone to properly seal it.

[LizStreithorst]

Liz I assume you meant silicone without fungicide?

OMG, will you look at what I typed? Ofcourse I meant WITHOUT. I sure don't want to be responsible for some poor guy killing his fish. Very very sorry.....

[LizStreithorst]

When you clean out all the old silicone, the glass is still connected but there is a fine crevice or void between the pieces. What's holding it together? Would it help or hurt to run a bead of "crazy glue" down between the glass before the final silicone sealer?

Crazy glue is non-toxic but will not work in this application. With Crazy Glue the pieces need to be perfectly matched without any gaps. NON FUNGICIDAL Silicone is the stuff to use. When I did the job I broke the tank down into 5 separate pieces When I put it back together I put the trim back on to keep it square and then clamps to hold everything in place. Then I let it sit for a week. (mostly because I didn't have a strong guy available until then to help me put it back). Still, it won't hurt to give it several days to cure.

[Keith Perkins]

I'm usually a VERY resourceful guy and succeed at virtually ever home project. Having said that, I've tried to reseal a leaking 72 bow twice now and failed both times. I cleaned out the old silicone with an exacto knife and a single edged razor blade until my fingers were sore. I cleaned the glass with alcohol a half a dozen times making sure there was nothing left on the glass before I applied GE silicone 1. First time around I believe the tank leaked from the same place as it did originally on the bottom. Second time around it developed a leak on a side seam. I gave up temporarily and got a new tank, but I have to try once more and will probably tear the tank all the way down next time and use DAP aquarium safe silicone.

[Ed13]

I applied GE silicone 1.
GE 1 is not strong enough for the job, even less on a bow front. It's more of a sealant than an adhesive type.

[Keith Perkins]

GE 1 is not strong enough for the job, even less on a bow front. It's more of a sealant than an adhesive type.

I believe you, but it is the mostly commonly referenced product in various tank sealing threads here. Wish I had found the DAP product before I did the job twice and I got a new tank.

[wiifish]

Thanks for all the useful responses.... The tank held up to a few days of filling to the rim. I was curious as I wanted to resilicone a new trim on the tank...so I started picking off some silicone by rubbing on the old silicone and it came off without a problem. I thought if it is that easy then the seams should be just as easy..I tried and it held up...rubbed it a bit longer and harder and a small piece came off...I guess it would have given out eventually. I will reseal it in the summer. I bought the aquarium Silicone from my LFS... cost $20 CAD per tube. That is expensive stuff.

[Discus-Hans]

1) Let me ask you guys something, with "reseal" the tank do you mean clean out the corners of the glass, kit some new in and tank is "resealed"

or

2)take the glass apart in 5 pieces, clean everything very well, all old silicone gone, clean with trychlore, and put the tank together again????


1) hope you can sleep at night because I know I wouldn't, all what the kit in the corners does, is protect the kit BETWEEN the glass. The kit BETWEEN the glass is the ONLY kit that keeps the tank together.

2) Buy a calculator, put 1 + 1 together, good quality silicone kit, your time (if you do the job well) a 75 gallon .......... lets keep it low, 5..... 6 hours? the risk....... naahhhhh not for Hansie

Now if you want to play with glass and you live close to Baltimore, MD I think I've 5 or 6 tanks, cracked here or there. Cut them loose and from the 6 you can make at least 4 "new" 65 gallons. You can pick them up for free, I don't waste my time on them or the risk and.......... I know how to "glue" a tank, I made many, many tanks in my live, but cracked or leaking tanks........ use them to raise mice lol lol

Hans

[KEWX]

Hi Hans! I'll take them. Ken

[Keith Perkins]

Hi Hans! I'll take them. Ken

That took 3 or 4 hours longer than I expected. Apparently everyone isn't as busy shipping fish as Hans is.

[KEWX]

The Project Begins. We'll I got those tanks from Hans and I'm starting to strip out the old silicone to replace the broken panels. I now understand why Hans didn't want to waste his valuable time. It's not an easy job to remove "all" the silicone on a 65 gallon tank and it does take alot of time. The sweat equity will be worth it to me because I'll save enough money to be able to buy more discus from Hans! LOL

After checking out the prices of bulkheads and plugs to close off the drill holes (I'm not ready to set up a central filter system), I decided to check out the cost of replacing the glass panels. Almost all the glass companies I called wanted a ridiculous amount for a 48" X 16" glass panel!! You could almost buy a tank!

But I did find RG Collins Glass in Baltimore, Md that would supply the glass at a reasonable price so I decided to forget the bulkheads and buy fresh glass panels! Glen at RG Collins was great! I pick up the panels tomorrow and start re-sealing.

I'm still a little concerned about the silicone. Any thoughts are recommendations before I move forward? I read as much as I could from various forums about silicone and resealing tanks. Unless anyone has a better idea, I think I'm going to purchase either the DAP or the GE 100% silicone I, waterproof for window/door/attic/basement. It sounds like they are the same product as those labeled for aquariums and sold at twice the cost. It does have a FDA approval code, no sign of any mildew or fungus control. Drying time may be longer than other brands but it was recommended by someone to let it dry for 7 days before filling.

When I finish, I'll have 6 almost new 65 gallon tanks ready for fish! Oh NO!! I'll have to build racks/tables for 6 large tanks!!!! LOL! LOL! Maybe I'll get around to getting fish some day! Wish me luck!

[Discus-Hans]

Good luck lol

Hans

[Keith Perkins]

No surprise I suppose, I'd suggest trying the DAP product that says it can be used on aquariums. Or, if you decide to use the GE Silicone I, just do one tank and see how it holds up for you. It may work better for you than it did for me since your also doing the butt joints, I sure hope so. I'll be interested to see which product you use and how it works out.

[KEWX]

Since I'm doing several tanks, I might try several different products to see how they work. Sound like an ideal time for a product test?

What products/types should I test?

[Keith Perkins]

I'd like to see DAP Adhesive Sealant and GE Silicone I. Here's a link to the DAP product so you can see what the packaging looks like. IME it's much more difficult to find than GE Silicone I, which is available everywhere. Looked at 4 likely places before I found the DAP product at Home Depot.

http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=67&SubcatID=10

[KEWX]

I saw that produce at Home Depot but it's over $4 for 2.8 oz. in a small tube. That would make it $12 for the same amount ( tube) that's in a large tube which cost under $5. I wish it came in the large tube. Even the Prefecto brand sold at Dr Smith/Foster only costs $9.99. I can get tubes from GLASSCAGES for $6.

[JaredP]

I have a 45 tall that I got because it was leaking. I cut only the interior sealant out, leaving the frames on. Using the GE 1 I resealed just the interior seals. I water checked it for 3 days, and it's been holding water for a year.

I would not brave pulling panels off.. not yet at least. The key is take yor time.

[Keith Perkins]

I saw that produce at Home Depot but it's over $4 for 2.8 oz. in a small tube. That would make it $12 for the same amount ( tube) that's in a large tube which cost under $5. I wish it came in the large tube. Even the Prefecto brand sold at Dr Smith/Foster only costs $9.99. I can get tubes from GLASSCAGES for $6.

I concur with the size availability and pricing information you posted on the DAP and GE products. The thing is that at this point I've sunk a lot of time into trying to reseal my 72. Every project I do probably takes twice as long as it should because I'm really anal about the details. If I'm going to attempt it a third time and break the tank all the way down I'm not sure I'm willing to use the GE product again. I don't want to have to attempt to fix it a fourth time, so at this point spending $20 for 5 small tubes of DAP instead of $9 for 2 large tubes of GE I think is the route I'll be taking.

[KEWX]

Good luck! I bought some of the Dap you suggested. I'm going to use it to re-attached a new panel (between the glass) and then use the GE I to lay down a bead over the seams for one of the tanks. I'll do another with Prefecto Silicone from Dr. Foster/Smith and the 3rd I'll do all GE I.

P.S. How did you clean off all the old silicone? I've spent hours scraping with razor blades and Exacto knives. I started using the acetone to help find and soften the hidden silicone, so I could scrape it all off. A fine nylon scrubby and very fine steelwool also helps. If the seals fail, it won't be because I didn't get the old silicone off!

[Keith Perkins]

Good luck! I bought some of the Dap you suggested. I'm going to use it to re-attached a new panel (between the glass) and then use the GE I to lay down a bead over the seams for one of the tanks. I'll do another with Prefecto Silicone from Dr. Foster/Smith and the 3rd I'll do all GE I.

P.S. How did you clean off all the old silicone? I've spent hours scraping with razor blades and Exacto knives. I started using the acetone to help find and soften the hidden silicone, so I could scrape it all off. A fine nylon scrubby and very fine steelwool also helps. If the seals fail, it won't be because I didn't get the old silicone off!

I'll be really interested to see how you make out with each of the products. On my first attempt I primarily removed my old silicone by spending hours with an exacto knife and a single edged razor blade. I followed that by cleaning with a paper towel and rubbing alcohol while checking for any missed silicone. I did the alcohol process six times as I recall. The cleaning on the second attempt was the same as the first except after the initial silicone removal I applied a thin layer of a caulk remover product. I didn't do the steel wool, as I didn't disassemble the tank. I will be doing it on the third attempt when I do take the tank apart. That may be a few months, as the yard work etc will be calling for a while.

[TookayS2K]

I'm in the same boat. I'm trying to reseal a 80 gal bow front. In my situation, I can't find the source of the leak since it's at the bottom. It was leaking some where near the bottom rear edges.

For my first attempt, the rear sealed perfectly... but then the front corners started leaking. I think my mistakes were some of these:

1. only waited 24 hours to dry
2. bow front makes it hard using the scrapper tool properly to smooth the silicone. This is because the edges are not 90 degrees all the way around the take. The tool is ment for 90 degree angles. I used the size 16 on the tool.. since it provided to largest bead of silicone.
3. I used GE1. I shopped at home depot and really couldn't find anything else situable. There was DAP but none were suited for the job.

I'm currently stripping all the new silicone I just put on... what a pain!

[Fishandturtlejunkie]

I re-sealed my 190 display tank. It was a nightmare. Partly because I was a novice at the time, and also due to the glass euro-bracing that made it extremely difficult to maneuver around inside of the tank with a caulk gun, razor blades and lacquer thinner for days on end.

I highly recommend using GE RTV108 (clear) if you are going to do it, and mask everything off after cleaning the crap out of the glass before beginning with razor blades and chemicals. This task is not for faint of heart, but if you are meticulous it will pay off in the end. Good luck!

[rickztahone]

it might be a dumb question but do you use silicone on the outside of the tank when re-sealing? i've pretty much taken all of the inside silicone off which was a PITA, but i'm sure i got it all. i'm letting it dry now and i will be re-sealing it with the GE I clear silicone, is this strong enough to hold, or do i need something stronger for resealing a tank? TIA

[John_Nicholson]

Any 100% pure silicone is plenty strong to hold a tank together. When resealing a tank remember that glass can never touch glass. If it does then it will leak.

-john

[Apistomaster]

Regardless of what it is you are trying to seal any leaks, be it an aquarium or a concrete basement, all sealing must be done on the side opposite of where the leak(s) appear. All attempts to seal leak from the outside are doomed to failure. I have plenty of experience with sealing leaking aquariums, underground concrete structures of an industrial scale and I have written technical specifications for public agencies sealing projects so I have a very good idea of what is and isn't possible. I have worked with virtually every class of sealants. For aquariums use only plain silicone sealant containing no mold and mildew inhibiting chemicals.

Any aquarium which has a leak should be emptied and completely dried before ever beginning the work. This is an extremely important point.
Sealing a leaking aquarium is about the simplest case.
Identify the source of the leak if possible then use a razor blade to remove the bulk of the sealant some distance from where you are suspecting the leak's source. It is actually best to remove all the interior silicone and do the entire tank including inside the top rim.
Once you have removed all the sealant you can using a razor blade then use acetone to remove any residual silicone.
Use the blue masking tape sold at all hardware stores to mask off the limits of the sealant and to obtain straight sealed lines. Apply the silicone sealant then immediately remove the masking tape as soon as all the seams have been sealed. You only have about 10 to 15 minutes of working time depending on the ambient temperatures. But be careful as the tape will curl and be springy. this can spread sealant where it will have to be removed after it has cured and again, remove any traces with acetone.
By sealing the entire tank you will know that the job was as thorough as possible. Normally if the sealant is cured for 24 hours the tank may be used. By using masking tape and spreading the sealant thinly, the sealant cures well within 24 hours and this is a waterproofing seal not a structural one as when building a tank so 24 hours of curing time is sufficient.

Do not believe any claims that a leak may be successfully and permanently repaired by applying the sealant to the outside.

[David Rose]

In my research, I only came across removing the silicone on the inside only, and to be sure not to cut into the joint seams. I didn't have any visible silicone on the outside...just around the plastic framing.

[MikeF]

Quick question. When resealing a tank, what do you guys use to smooth out the silicone with? Was looking at doing mine next weekend, and was going to ask this question on another post. I have heard to use a spoon or guitar pick. Any better ideas?

[chaoslite]

This is one area on SD that I actually have experience in. Unless you see the sealant crumbling in the seams on the outside tank, leave them alone. Apistomaster has it right. You are going to notice a heavy vinegar smell, so make sure you are in a well ventilated area. Outside is best. I just resealed a 60g. Personally I wait 48 hours for it to dry although they say 24 is fine. Fill it up outside after it has dried and watch for leaks. If you cannot do it outside put a big tarp under it. I leave the tank full for 24 hours. If you see no leaks you are good to go. If you do find leaks, I always just remove it all and start over.

Mishka

[rickztahone]

thank you all for your replies. i think i might have not been too clear, i was asking if i had to take the silicone off of the outside and reseal the outside (it only had a small thin bead of silicone), this is on top of resealing the whole inside of tank. i already removed all the silicone from the inside and i'm letting it dry out. i saw that the outside had some silicone but i left if on until i heard back from fellow members. thank you all again for your replies. this tank will not be in use any time soon, it will be for my RCS fully planted tank. the tank had a small seal but i do not remember where it was so i decided to do the whole thing.

[Jhhnn]

I'll agree with Apistomaster. I've resealed a few tanks, and use silicone seal often in my line of work. It's hard to overemphasize the idea that the surfaces to be sealed need to be scrupulously clean, free of residual sealant, and absolutely oil free. Silicone seal doesn't stick to the dried product well at all, or to the slightest hint of oil, even fingerprints.

Dap 100% silicone seal is also a good product, as is perfecto aquarium sealant, if the GE isn't readily available.

The tape trick is a good one, as is sealing up under the rim. If you've never done it before, it's a good idea to practice a little immediately beforehand on the inside of a cardboard box, for example, just to improve your technique... have enough sealant on hand to do the whole thing in one session so that the seal is one continuous piece...

I like to let it cure more than 24 hrs, but my technique is kinda blobbish, not the best, and it takes longer for the sealant to de-gas and set up when it's thicker...

I had the opportunity to buy a really old school tank, one with a chrome steel frame and slate bottom. I could tell it needed to be resealed... with what, I didn't know, so I passed it up... It's still there, and I'm still thinking about it... It's older than silicone seal, and the original sealant is like tar, so it has some oil in it, and I figure I'd never get the slate clean enough to have confidence in using silicone seal on it... anybody know what to seal it with to restore it to original?

[chaoslite]

rickztahone - you do not have to take it off the outside.


Hey Jhhnn check out this link maybe it will work for you. If not it was worth the try.

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/oldetkrepairfaqs.htm

Mishka

[rickztahone]

rickztahone - you do not have to take it off the outside.


Hey Jhhnn check out this link maybe it will work for you. If not it was worth the try.

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/oldetkrepairfaqs.htm

Mishka

hey John that would great if you are able to just put hot water in that tank to fix the seal :D

[chaoslite]

Well that might be a good trick...lol but I was thinking he could try what was suggested lower on the page for the tank with the slate bottom. The post is listed as:

MetaFrame Aquariums 8/16/07

Steps 1 and 2

Mishka

[Jhhnn]

Thanks for the link, chaoslite... interesting. The tank in question is too big to fit in the sink- it *might* fit in the bathtub for the hot water treatment... it's big

Good luck with the reseal project, Rick... it's one of those situations where "Cleanliness is next to Godliness" actually means something...

[chaoslite]

Well good luck to you if you try the hot water treatment. If that doesn't work do the one I was really suggesting.:D

[Apistomaster]

To Jnnnn,

I recommend the basic interior sealant removal per my general description in my abovr post then proceed with an entire interior silicone seal.
The old putty used in the Metaframe(long time since I heard of that brand) still provides essential padding between glass and stainless steel frame even though it has lost it's adhesive and resilient qualities over time. A properly done interior seal should restore the tank to usability. The slate will clean up well enough by using acetone to get a good new silicone seal.

[Jhhnn]

Right now, it's just a passing fancy of sorts- I haven't figured out where to put some of the tanks I already have... along with the water changing apparatus I want...

I have space constraints, bad ones... I'd move to a place with a full open basement, but I'd be moving by myself...

[brewmaster15]

Hi all,
I'm digging this thread back up because I am re-sealing a tank...I've done many many tanks here and have had really good results over the years...I have always used "aquarium silicone"... now I got to comparing ingredients and both The aquarium silicones and GE silicone 1 (without additives) both are 100 % silicone. So I bought afew tubes to try....I just resealed a 45 hex and its curing now.. Kind of a test run for a 125 gal I need to seal. What I noticed was how fast it cured compared to "aquarium silicones"that I have used. Now I thought that was interesting so I called GE's tech support and asked what makes a silicone formulation suitable for use in Aquariums.

The answer from GE was ...the curing time...Aquarium silicones are designed to take much longer to cure....and that increases the bonding time and tensile strength of the bond....

So the take home message is depending on your particularly tank, regular old silicone may workfine.... but I think for my 125 gal tank....I'll be using "aqauarium silicone"...just in case!:)


hth,
al

[David Rose]

Interesting...I used 100% silicone from ACE on resealing my 125G that just went into operation. I'll cross my fingers and keep you posted.

[Keith Perkins]

Thanks for the information Al, and here I thought I'd lost my handimans touch. I've tried twice to reseal my 72 bow with GE Silicone I without success. I got a new leak on the last attempt, so once the fishroom is done I'm going to try to fix the leaking corning with more GE Silicone I, but if that doesn't work I'm going to strip it for the third time and invest in some aquarium silicone. As much work as it is to completely strip a 72 of its old silicone, I would have preferred spending more on silicone the first time than repeating the process, especially if it turns out to be twice.

[Apistomaster]

GE Silicone Type I is fine for resealing.
The only precautions that Al's information implies is that Type I may not be the best choice if one is constructing a large all glass aquarium. I understand the supposed differences between the properties between so-call aquarium grade silicone sealant and GE Type I but I am not convinced by the information provided to Al by the supplier.
Only testing according to ASTM Standard Tests for adhesion and tensile strength by an independent materials testing laboratory would carry any weight with me if they were to show there really is any difference between the two "brands". I have been building all glass aquariums since 1968 using Dow Corning Aquarium Silicone sealant which was later bought out by GE and to the best of my knowledge and experience, I have never found any difference between the two. Only a few have the rights to the proprietary formulae for various silicone sealants. I think GE is the one making the material and other companies re-brand material purchased from GE. I have built tanks as large as 100 gal.s out of both brands, the original Dow Corning and GE Type I and I cannot detect any difference in strength of the bond and durability.
I have some aquariums that are now 40+ years old and others built since then using GE Type I which are about 25 years old and still work. I am comparing the structural characteristics which are more demanding than just what is required for sealing. Any time a resealed aquarium still leaks that is because of improper preparation of the surfaces to be sealed or mistakes made in the application of the sealant. A reseal job done correctly will not leak nor is it dependent on any structural loads. It merely has to have a sufficient bond to the sealed surfaces. Any sealant like GE type I which can hold a large tank together for decades is certainly an adequate material to simply seal the inside well enough to prevent leaks.
Not only have I the practical experience but I have also had to write technical specifications for sealant use on an industrial scale and have many years of experience working in materials testing laboratories. I am very experienced at hearing the spiels made by product reps touting the superiority of their products, lots of whom brought "miracles in a can" to my attention and I had the freedom to let out small trial contracts for them to prove whether or not their products perform better than their competitors as most claimed. Few ever prove their materials are actually superior to any approved equal. Most turn out to be equivalent at best which is actually sufficient. It then only comes down to which product with equivalent properties is the better deal, ie, the least expensive equivalent.

[Darrell Ward]

I also have used regular aquarium sealant, and GE. In my experience, both did the job. The most important thing to remember, is the surfaces of the glass must be perfectly clean, or you'll get a weak seal that will give away and develop leaks. I learned the hard way to wipe the surface down with alcohol before sealing, as even the oils from your skin and fingers can mess up your attempt.

[Apistomaster]

I have found acetone to be a better solvent when it comes to removing residual silicone sealant than alcohol. Of course, if I could not obtain acetone then I would fall back on Isopropyl alcohol.

When one is resealing the interior joints of an aquarium after completing all the cleaning prep work, the areas to be sealed should be masked off with masking tape and as soon as the sealant has been spread, the masking tape should be immediately removed.
This allows the sealant to be spread evenly and under light pressure to help the sealant penetrate any avenues where leakage previously occurred. Be sure the tank has been allowed time for any residual water present in the previously leaking areas has completely evaporated and is completely dry. Direct exposure to the sun out doors can drive off the residual moisture pretty fast but a day or two of drying in the sun is a good idea.
Every step should be given all due attention and the repairs should not be rushed. A well done job should last an indefinitely long time.

[Skip]

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.... so lots more say its not worth it... i wonder if you can get a professional to caulk it :)

but who does that?!