Ideas needed for Fish Room

[pepetj]

I intend to build a fishroom in a neglected area in my office. It's a section of our internal patio that has one entry door (made of steel bars) and ends in a wall. Originally this alley went around the house structure but it was closed by hollow clay blocks. It has no roof over it.

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk3/pepe1965/P1080992.jpg
I will provide measurements as we move along this project.

My first question is: what would be a fairly good cost-effective roofing solution. We need to consider security (prevent brake ins) and weather (I live in the Caribbean were seasonal tropical storms -even hurricanes- eventually pay us a visit.

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk3/pepe1965/P1080993.jpg
So let's focus on the roofing first.

Any ideas?

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

[Skip]

you are better off getting a contractor to fix your roof issue? esp in islands.. since any roof would be hurricane rated.. however,.. i do not know if there are those kinds of building standards where you live..

are the two opposite walls the same height? one looks taller then the other..

[Yboat]

Whats the diffrence in the wall hieghts?


The pitch makes a huge diffrence on what I would recomend.

[Skip]

Whats the diffrence in the wall hieghts?


The pitch makes a huge diffrence on what I would recomend.

your walls hold up the roof.. are the walls level or not? .. it will impact the truss design..

yb.. you are looking at the design from top down.. i being a civil engineer.. can't help but start from foundation and work my way up..! :D

[Yboat]

I'm a general contractor. I look at whats easyest to build.
This is standard UBC/IBC stuff no engineering needed.


PS I was trained as a sturctural engineer... I don't miss it one bit.

[Altum Nut]

In my opinion, I would definitely go with a steel truss, the industrial engineered ones... and metal roof.
Your roof pitch seems sufficient but what is on the outside. Meaning, is it someone else’s patio?
Anything I would do first is a good cleaning on those concrete walls.
Is it mold or just weathered?

...Ralph

[Tito]

If you're a contractor I think you should be able to take care of this yourself. As well as the type of roofing structure.

I'm not sure what advice you are looking for here.

[Skip]

If you're a contractor I think you should be able to take care of this yourself. As well as the type of roofing structure.

I'm not sure what advice you are looking for here.

the OP is not the contractor.. that is yboat..

[Tito]

the OP is not the contractor.. that is yboat..

Got it!

I thought it was Yboat......Yboat -> no wonder all the ?????? LOL

Wall height looks the same - what is it 10'? Looks like the width of the space is about 6'. Why don't you provide a sketch of the plan in excel or something that could draw some simple lines with - put some dimensions in your drawing then hit the "Print Screen" key on your keyboard and post the pic here so we can have a look. Tadow.

[pepetj]

Hey thanks for your replies, I feel I have good company here to pull this off. I will need to measure the whole thing to answer your questions.

This I can give in advance:

The continuos concrete wall is adjacent to another house, and it limits our internal patios. It's possible that at some point that wall (at the entry area) is part of the outside wall of the other house (at least that happens in the front area, before the metallic door, so I will confirm that).

The height of the parallel (or quasi parallel) lateral walls may not be equal. I will address this question asap.

The walls likely have some mold in them. This space have been exposed to the tropical weather without any cleaning for a long time.

I will draw some sketches with more specific data.

Please keep coming by, I need your help here.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

[Tito]

So far I see the posibility of one long row of tanks against one wall.

[Yboat]

Got it!

I thought it was Yboat......Yboat -> no wonder all the ?????? LOL

Wall height looks the same - what is it 10'? Looks like the width of the space is about 6'. Why don't you provide a sketch of the plan in excel or something that could draw some simple lines with - put some dimensions in your drawing then hit the "Print Screen" key on your keyboard and post the pic here so we can have a look. Tadow.

Yeah I was wondering why you sent me that PM.

:)


A easy way to get rid of the mold is a mild bleach solution. spray it on, let it dry. then give it a good scrubing with TSP and a stiff nylon brush. Its easy, cheap and works. I do not recomend power washing in a small area like that or from some one that is inexperanced.


If the walls are pretty even, it really means your only cost effective choice is to slope the roof down to the far end. Where you will need some type of gutter and a way to direct the water away.

Whats around the corner?

[pepetj]

Around the corner is my internal patio (access through sliding glass doors from from both my associate's office-a psychiatrist- and my office).

I'm setting a 250gal glass tank there for my Polypterus species (endlicheri endlicheri and ornatipinnis). The alley we're going to turn into Fish room will be for keeping and breeding Discus, all in planted tanks. I got one small (25gpd) RO unit already.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

[Tito]

breeding Discus, all in planted tanks.

You might want to start another thread on Breeding Discus in planted tanks.

[pepetj]

You might want to start another thread on Breeding Discus in planted tanks.

Once I got the fishroom ready for tank set-up I'll probably will. At home I have three tanks (all planted) with young adult Discus (not the best specimens but it's my learning curve) as well as another in my office.

I'm likely going with either 25gal custom made or 80 to 100gal tanks divided in four segments as to provide 20 to 25gals for each pair. Filtration and heating will be individualized: one per tank (or tank division). But that's moving too far ahead.

I need to do something with the mold and whatever is attached to the wall and floor surfaces and to solve the roofing issue.

Someone suggested using Clear Hurrican Shutters for the roof... I'll look into that.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

[Tito]

Once I got the fishroom ready for tank set-up I'll probably will. At home I have three tanks (all planted) with young adult Discus (not the best specimens but it's my learning curve) as well as another in my office.

I'm likely going with either 25gal custom made or 80 to 100gal tanks divided in four segments as to provide 20 to 25gals for each pair. Filtration and heating will be individualized: one per tank (or tank division). But that's moving too far ahead.

I need to do something with the mold and whatever is attached to the wall and floor surfaces and to solve the roofing issue.

Someone suggested using Clear Hurrican Shutters for the roof... I'll look into that.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

It's best breed Discus in Bare Bottom tanks.

[Skip]

It's best breed Discus in Bare Bottom tanks.

tito.. i think he just wants help on his room.. seems to be set on the planted breeding tanks.. :confused:

[pepetj]

tito.. i think he just wants help on his room.. seems to be set on the planted breeding tanks.. :confused:

Yes I am set on planted breeding tanks. I'm not into large scale breeding, the local market ain't that big. I doubt any fish, and that includes Discus, enjoys living in a bare bottom tank and their well-being is a prioroty for me, even if that means putting up extra work. That's another type of discussion though.

Help me solve the technicalities of getting this abandoned area into a nice fishroom.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo0

[pepetj]

I have a sketch almost ready. Going to take measurements today to add it to the drawing and post it here. That way we all have a better look at the real space we are working on and figure out how the floor and walls conditions are.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

[AirCapital]

if you plan on breeding in planted tanks you will find it much much harder in your self- plants in pots with a bare bottom tank would be the best of both worlds.

[Skip]

if you plan on breeding in planted tanks you will find it much much harder in your self- plants in pots with a bare bottom tank would be the best of both worlds.

+1

[tcyiu]

Someone suggested using Clear Hurrican Shutters for the roof... I'll look into that.


I don't know what these are ... are they made of glass? If so, will you need to worry heat build up?

What's nice about using the alley way is that you do not need to worry about water spills. :-)

While I was visiting Hong Kong, I saw an 8ft long planted aquarium with a bed of grass like plants. i.e. very short plants. It had a school of what must be hundreds, if not over a thousand cardinal tetras. WOW what a beauty!

As soon as I saw your wall, that's what I immediately envisioned.

Tim

[pepetj]

I have some measurements to share: The length is 24', the width varies from 6' at the entry door area to 6'02" at the rear wall. The floor isn't leveled, any water spills will run from the rear dead end wall area to the entry door area and beyond. Thereks a U shaped channel withoin the concrete floor that runs paralell to the wall that limits the property so the floor not beeing leveled is a fact
I confirmed that when I measured the height of the walls.

We have, roughly speaking, a 24' long, 6' wide, 8' (rear wall) to 10'.(entry door) tall space to work with.

Ikm posting from my cell phone, once I get home I'll upload some pics and the sketch.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

[Tito]

Once I got the fishroom ready for tank set-up I'll probably will. At home I have three tanks (all planted) with young adult Discus (not the best specimens but it's my learning curve) as well as another in my office.

I'm likely going with either 25gal custom made or 80 to 100gal tanks divided in four segments as to provide 20 to 25gals for each pair. Filtration and heating will be individualized: one per tank (or tank division). But that's moving too far ahead.

I need to do something with the mold and whatever is attached to the wall and floor surfaces and to solve the roofing issue.

Someone suggested using Clear Hurrican Shutters for the roof... I'll look into that.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

I called it on the dimensions.

Look you'll never get any snow there so why not just place some corrugated tin metal roofing - it's cheap and keeps the water out.

[pepetj]

This sketch presents the left hand and right hand lateral walls of our Fishroom Project.

There's a 1' 06" sudden drop in the RH lateral wall height, when the decorative hollow clay brick wall begins.

Let's solve the roofing problem. I never have snow falling down here.

As for using undulated tin sheets... I don't think it is a reasonably good aesthetical solution. So I would need other options, even if the cost rises.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

[Yboat]

I called it on the dimensions.

Look you'll never get any snow there so why not just place some corrugated tin metal roofing - it's cheap and keeps the water out.

I can think of 2 good reason, both were in the OP


1. he wants to be able to secure it from theft.

2. hurrcanes.


Metal roofs that comply with both of those are not cost effective. Stick building and a membrain roof would be alot cheaper.

[pepetj]

I can think of 2 good reason, both were in the OP


1. he wants to be able to secure it from theft.

2. hurrcanes.


Metal roofs that comply with both of those are not cost effective. Stick building and a membrain roof would be alot cheaper.

English is my second language so I can get lost with some technical terms. Can you describe what "stick building and a membrain roof" means?

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

[Skip]

English is my second language so I can get lost with some technical terms. Can you describe what "stick building and a membrain roof" means?

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

pepe, que necesita un techo fuerte. que tiene capacidad para el viento del huracán. si no, su habitación se puede dañar bajo techo

ismael

[Altum Nut]

English is my second language so I can get lost with some technical terms. Can you describe what "stick building and a membrain roof" means?

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

Membrane roof is basically rubber sheathing normally used on flat roofs but this method involves a good structure and surface will require maintenance in the future.
My original suggestion was simple metal rafters and as Tito said top it off with corrugated tin metal roofing. Simply maintenance free.

...Ralph

[Tito]

Membrane roof is basically rubber sheathing normally used on flat roofs but this method involves a good structure and surface will require maintenance in the future.
My original suggestion was simple metal rafters and as Tito said top it off with corrugated tin metal roofing. Simply maintenance free.

...Ralph

:thumbsup:

[Yboat]

A metal roof is not maintence free, I can assure you. The maintance cycle is actually very simlar to a membrain. Trust me.


hurrcane codes change every thing.

[Pardal]

This sketch presents the left hand and right hand lateral walls of our Fishroom Project.

There's a 1' 06" sudden drop in the RH lateral wall height, when the decorative hollow clay brick wall begins.

Let's solve the roofing problem. I never have snow falling down here.

As for using undulated tin sheets... I don't think it is a reasonably good aesthetical solution. So I would need other options, even if the cost rises.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

I was born in an island in the caribe just like you, Cuba. and received the visit of huracanes. I recomend to use a concrete roof "placa" , resting in columns, just make it thin about 5" thick, the columns can be made out of 4" or 6" diameter aquaduct pipes use for sewage "new" of course cut to the appropiate high. this should be full with concrete and should have a 1/2" metal bar in the center the placa also should have metal bars across and longitudinal inside the concrete. al support by wood coffer construction.
You might have to invest more but it will be forever, Trust just hire an old masonary and tell what you want to do; to pour the concrete . we use to get a lot of beer and get all the friends neighbors and by noon we were done and then start to kill the cold ones.

[Tito]

I was born in an island in the caribe just like you, Cuba. and received the visit of huracanes. I recomend to use a concrete roof "placa" , resting in columns, just make it thin about 5" thick, the columns can be made out of 4" or 6" diameter aquaduct pipes use for sewage "new" of course cut to the appropiate high. this should be full with concrete and should have a 1/2" metal bar in the center the placa also should have metal bars across and longitudinal inside the concrete. al support by wood coffer construction.
You might have to invest more but it will be forever, Trust just hire an old masonary and tell what you want to do; to pour the concrete . we use to get a lot of beer and get all the friends neighbors and by noon we were done and then start to kill the cold ones.

Where are the columns going??

He's got SIX feet to work with. The width of six feet alone is restricting and yet at the same time actually helps out in getting away with a simple roofing solution.

This is a very simple project. A tin roof with some metal rafters firmly secured unto the supporting structure is all that would be needed. Unless a tornado or 80 mph burst of wind struck directly into this small enclosure - I don't see any force that would damage or blow the roof off.

Could just go with some flat sheets of tin right unto the rafters. You could always layer over the tin with something more aesthetic.

Needless to say this is a simple project with a simple solution.

[Jennie]

why can't steel framing/reinforcement be secured directly to the concrete wall from one wall to the other at the top??

[Tito]

why can't steel framing/reinforcement be secured directly to the concrete wall from one wall to the other at the top??

Actually - this is exactly where the project begins and ends. What areas and surfaces/material do you have to secure ANY roof structure?

The wall to the left of the photo is poured in concrete and what about the wall to the right of the photo?

Are you going to drill into the concrete? Not sure if that's a good idea.

Can you provide more details on teh surfaces the roof would sit on and be anchored to?

Edit: As I study the structures in your photo more and more - I see that you are going to have to spend quite a bit of money to place a true roof over that alley way. That area was not designed to have a roof. You will either have to modify the exsiting concrete walls to support the roof structure (not a DIY project IMO) or support the roof from below with columns (but you only have six feet to work with almost fruitless).

[Jennie]

My guess is the wall on the right is part of a building stucture and the wall on the left is freestanding so to speak. I'm sure that steel framing can be drilled into both walls however with the force of hurricanes coming through and guessing that he wants the roofing material that sits on the steel frame to be secure, the hurricane can compromise the freestanding wall on the left and send it crashing into his aquariums anyway. I would say it depends on the wall on the left and how sound it is??

[Tito]

My guess is the wall on the right is part of a building stucture and the wall on the left is freestanding so to speak. I'm sure that steel framing can be drilled into both walls however with the force of hurricanes coming through and guessing that he wants the roofing material that sits on the steel frame to be secure, the hurricane can compromise the freestanding wall on the left and send it crashing into his aquariums anyway. I would say it depends on the wall on the left and how sound it is??

That's just it - drilling into a poured concrete wall IMO is work for a structural engineer. I will assume that these walls have rebar. Now concrete can be "patched" but that area will be compromised structurally. The patching would be more of an aethetic solution to a wall that may have had some cracking or pieces fall away. But here - he will be intentionally drilling into the bearing wall and then after the roofing structure is in place he would do some patch rock to cclean up - but again - that is not a DIY job.

[Jennie]

In the end, the idea of this seems expensive and exhausting.

[Skip]

That's just it - drilling into a poured concrete wall IMO is work for a structural engineer. that is not a DIY job.

yep.. thats what i said in the second post.. this should NOT be Aggie-rigged.. it should be done by a professional.. BUT its his roof.. he can do it as he wants..

[pepetj]

Some pics of the working area for our Fishroom Project:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk3/pepe1965/OfficeFishroomDetail.jpg
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk3/pepe1965/IMG00263-20101021-1206.jpghttp://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk3/pepe1965/LHWallCorner.jpg

Thank you all for your interest and feedback.

I think tin roofing is the solution. I agree this may not be a DIY project (the roofing part at least) and I may need to hire someone with competence to do this.

Any way I could explore using 2x4's for the structure holding the roof instead of using metallic structure... don't you think? If I go with wood I could keep this within the DIY zone.

I'll get on the roof of the house to take pics of the surface we have to actually work with to place whatever structure we decide to use to hold the tin roof.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

[Tito]

Ok thanks for the pics!!!


Here's what I would do if I were you. I would build a frame of 2x4 around the enitire space. 24' x 6'. The 2x4's would be placed against the walls. you are basically just buidling a box frame within the enclosure. Then attach the roof to the frame.

If I have time tonight - I'll get on autocad and provide you with a rough draft.

If a hurricane were to strike near you - it would have to pull out the entire frame. you could anchor the frame with a couple of bolts or just leave it free standing.

Edit: When I'm done perhaps you can IM me your email adress and I will send you the drawings.

[Tito]

Pepetj


Is there is drain on the ground anywhere - there should be because this is your original patio area.

Let me know if there is and where at eactly. If I had to take a guess it should be over to the back corner by the bricks.

You should have a finish plan by tomorrow.

[pepetj]

There's a U shaped channel embedded within the concrete floor. It is located parallel to the Left Hand lateral wall (the one that is continuous, without the clay bricks). It needs to be cleaned. Here a couple of pics of this open-end drain channel.

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk3/pepe1965/LHWallandRearWallcorner.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk3/pepe1965/ObstructedwaterpathwayLHWalladjacent.jpg

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

[Pardal]

Where are the columns going??

He's got SIX feet to work with. The width of six feet alone is restricting and yet at the same time actually helps out in getting away with a simple roofing solution.

This is a very simple project. A tin roof with some metal rafters firmly secured unto the supporting structure is all that would be needed. Unless a tornado or 80 mph burst of wind struck directly into this small enclosure - I don't see any force that would damage or blow the roof off.

Could just go with some flat sheets of tin right unto the rafters. You could always layer over the tin with something more aesthetic.

Needless to say this is a simple project with a simple solution.

The columns could go touching the wall, or level with the wall its or inside the wall is a simple masonary procedure.
And 80mph lmo
A category 1 huricane is between 64-82 kts this is knots nautical miles per hour which is equal to 74-95 mph. category this consider the sustain winds only. when the winds get in this narrow space will create a funnel effect.
CAT 2 83- 95 knots or 96-110 mph.
CAT 3- 96- 113 knots or 111- 130 mph.
These categories keep going up but the first three are the most comon.
IME a tin roof will fly with the first storm , will be hot as an oven. easier for leaks and break in (this is third world country), and the6 feet width is irrelevant to the roof type.since the columns can go even with the wall.
just my two cents being cheap now, will become expensive in the long run.

[pepetj]

The columns could go touching the wall, or level with the wall its or inside the wall is a simple masonary procedure.
And 80mph lmo
A category 1 huricane is between 64-82 kts this is knots nautical miles per hour which is equal to 74-95 mph. category this consider the sustain winds only. when the winds get in this narrow space will create a funnel effect.
CAT 2 83- 95 knots or 96-110 mph.
CAT 3- 96- 113 knots or 111- 130 mph.
These categories keep going up but the first three are the most comon.
IME a tin roof will fly with the first storm , will be hot as an oven. easier for leaks and break in (this is third world country), and the6 feet width is irrelevant to the roof type.since the columns can go even with the wall.
just my two cents being cheap now, will become expensive in the long run.

I do live in a third world Country but I do have access to some pretty good construction materials. I've seen my share of tin roofs flying during hurricanes as well as some torn apart by tropical storms.

I have experienced the "Hot oven" effect of closed structures with tin roofs in the Caribbean so I know what you mean. Tin seems easy to handle for DIY, I will explore other options. Using columns to lay down a structural concrete roof is an idea I'm considering too. It can cost more than going with 2x4's wooden structure and whatever material in sheets I could place on it.

Hurricanes category IV and V are not that common but I do live in the middle of a "Hurricane Alley" and have experienced a couple of them. Somehow we've been spared from last decade's tougher ones.

Maybe turning the Fishroom Project Roof into a Green Roof will help with heat exchange (keeping room temp warm the rare not so hot days -temps falling to the lower 70s- and keeping it somewhat fresh during the hottest days when it reaches the upper 90s) complicating even more our solution options.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

[Tito]

Ok Pepe here you go.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z87/TitoTee_2007/Existing.jpg

[Tito]

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z87/TitoTee_2007/Frame.jpg

[Tito]

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z87/TitoTee_2007/Drainpipe.jpg

[Tito]

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z87/TitoTee_2007/Drainpipedetail.jpg

[Tito]

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z87/TitoTee_2007/Plywoodbase.jpg

[Tito]

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z87/TitoTee_2007/Roofing.jpg

[Tito]

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z87/TitoTee_2007/Sealant.jpg

[Tito]

I can't see how Hurricane winds can damage this roof since there is only one opening and that is the brick wall. The brick alone will create sufficient barrier to slow the wind drastically. According to how I am interpreting your pictures of your property - the camera shots taken from the gate are from the interior of the building. Also - there is an incline in this alley way and it slopes down towards the gate where ther is a drain waiting for the rain water. A wind tunnel cannot be created in this scenario. You have enough space to create one continous row of racks for fish tanks against the Neighbor's wall.

Some 2 x 4's, sheets of plywood, roofing material of your choice and and some tar and your done.

[zamboniMan]

I can't see how Hurricane winds can damage this roof since there is only one opening and that is the brick wall. The brick alone will create sufficient barrier to slow the wind drastically. According to how I am interpreting your pictures of your property - the camera shots taken from the gate are from the interior of the building. Also - there is an incline in this alley way and it slopes down towards the gate where ther is a drain waiting for the rain water. A wind tunnel cannot be created in this scenario. You have enough space to create one continous row of racks for fish tanks against the Neighbor's wall.

Some 2 x 4's, sheets of plywood, roofing material of your choice and and some tar and your done.

Unless something gets thrown into/through the wall but I don't see how you're going to get around that...

[Yboat]

you would be amazed what happens when winds start swirling around structures.

[Tito]

you would be amazed what happens when winds start swirling around structures.


Now if you think about it - if the Hurricane were that bad - then the enclosure is the least of Pepe's worries since a Cat 4 or 5 could rip the roof off of any of those houses. Mind you - this even rarely happens.

If you do a careful study of this layout - you will see that it is enclosed with two solid concrete walls as well as one end leads into the actual home and the other end is sealed off with yet another concrete wall. The only true opening has been enclosed with a hollow brick wall.

Now build a wood frame with a sealed roof on top and you pretty much have only one opening to the elements which would be the holes in teh hollow bricks.

If you don't mind could you explain where the wind would come in with this particular enclosure?

I choose not the draw the rest of the structures surrounding the space that Pepe wants to convert to a fish room since he is quite familiar with it. But study the pictures he provided and you will see that the frame and roofing would be quite adequate for his purpose.

Any engineers please feel free to opinion.

Yboat - I forgot to mention - I was trained as an Architect. And I do miss it! LOL

[pepetj]

you would be amazed what happens when winds start swirling around structures.


Honestly I doubt I would be surprised. At age 14 I happened to endure Hurricane David (1979 hurricane season). If a category S (enen 4) comes by I should have enough time to remove fish and valuable equipment inside my office, even take them home. I've seen rain falling upwards, huge tree parts flying, as well as a bunch of tin roof sheets over my time living in Santo Domingo.
Pepetj
Santo Domingo

[Yboat]

I would not drain the water into that channel, thats just asking for bad things.

3/4" ply is also over kill assuming you are installing some type cricket/ sloped roofing system( which I highly recomend,) 1/2" is fine.


Wind does strange things. There are many classic examples of this that I'm sure you were exposed too in school.

I don't miss working for a SE firm at all... Its nice to have all the skills to draw every thing up, then have a SE/PE go over them and stamp them.

[Tito]

Well - he's got a head start at least.

There really isn't anywhere for teh rain water to go. We have to h\keep in mind that his neighbor may not appreciate anything popping over that wall. Another idea would be to slope the roof towards those bricks and run the water down to that area but I don't know enough about it - like what back there? A drain pipe can easily be fitted to exit thru the hollow of the bricks.

Yes it it c\kind of nice to jump on autocad draw everything (money saver!) and the just pay for the stamping by a card carrying member LOL

Also - the rack system will be over a slope - that should be interesting!

[Yboat]

A easy solution is to have them core out a section of the wall at the far end( above the gate at the far end) and direct the water there.

I never like to have rain water discharge inside a structure.

For me being able to draw things out saves me lots of time.

[Tito]

A easy solution is to have them core out a section of the wall at the far end( above the gate at the far end) and direct the water there.

I never like to have rain water discharge inside a structure.

For me being able to draw things out saves me lots of time.

Tha's an excellent idea - just hope that the other side is not a property because that really is the best solution. I agree rainwater going straight down to that gutter not the best option.

[Yboat]

Even if it went into a discharge pipe, its still a bad idea. Thats creating a great place for a leak, which would be inside the structure.

[Tito]

Even if it went into a discharge pipe, its still a bad idea. Thats creating a great place for a leak, which would be inside the structure.

I dont' think this guy can build a roof that will overhang into the other property. His choices are well - not many if any at all.

[Yboat]

if you do a good job of coving it, then put a metal top cap on it, with a membrain or a paper and rock you will be ok.

The main reason why "flat roofs" leak is do to them not draining well.

[pepetj]

I feel like we do have a good starting point. Once I figure some details out (including costs) I will post on the roofing progress, likely asking questions as new problems surface.

I'm willing to hire someone qualified to do the job.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

[pepetj]

I've been having a lot of work lately (which is good).

I talked to my wife about moving the Planted Discus Breeding Tanks to this project, I even showed her some ideas from this thread. Her reaction took me by surprise: "Why are you going to take those beautiful fish out of our house? No way, I love the fish too you know?".

When I argued about keeping only the best looking tanks at home, for aesthetics, she looked at me and stated this: "Well we better get them nice looking tanks and stands but even if we don't it's our place so we keep our fish with us".

That means that I will keep the first stage of my "Planted Discus Breeding Project" at home (that means another fishroom thread) but I will need enough space to grow the offspring. This will be the purpose of the project we're working on this thread: Grow up tanks for Discus juveniles.

I may breed some Rainbowfish species there if the temperature allows it.

I expect to talk to a "maestro constructor" tomorrow. Once I have a quotation of the undulated tin roof I'll get back to you.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

[pepetj]

I talked to an architect friend of mine (specializes in environmentally friendly designs) who suggest using undulated tin roof and solving the heat problem with adequate ventilation design. He's going to check my solution for it.

We could use air extraction fans and also take advantage of the way air moves through this alley.

This will be a grow station for fish I will breed at home. That means we need to work on the planning stage of my new apartment's fishroom where the Planted Discus Breeding project will be set, thankfully to my dear wife.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo