Low Light Low Tech First Time Planted 125 gal

[BABYJIZAY]

Hi all!! After visiting Hans and buying some awesome Discus and the healthiest cardinals I've ever had in ten years, I am upgrading from a 55 to a 125 gallon just so I can go back and get more. This time I'd like to have it planted vs the silk plants I usually use. I am going with pool sand and driftwood. I'd like to have a small amount of plants. I am thinking of going with some java fern, water sprite, and a couple swords. Am I good with those in the sand? Are they "beginner" enough that I do not have to do anything special? :confused: I want to plant the absolute easiest little to no care plants... advise would be super appreciated.

[aix1]

Not sure if you can grow Java fern in sand, I think it would be better off on a piece of wood.

[Apistomaster]

Fasten the Java Fern to wood.
I recommend putting the Amazon Swords in pots and use FloraBase as the potting material and place time release fertilizer tabs in the pots before adding some plant substrate then the roots of the plant then top off the pot with more potting substrate. I prefer to use GladWare containers rather than clay pots. They confine the potting material, fertilizer and roots. This makes it easy to rearrange the plants without disrupting their growth. Just bury the potting container in the substrate but fine sand should not be used in a very thick layer. 1 inch deep is easier to keep clean and oxygenated.

[BABYJIZAY]

Thank you. Another question is... low light vs moderate light.... I thought it just meant how long the light is on. :angel: I see now that I am just a moron and its all about how strong the bulb is. At least that is what I am thinking I just read. How long should the lights be on in these low light/moderate light planted tanks?

[aix1]

In planted low tech I think the most important is to find a balance between pH (CO2) level and light (also nutrients but they are easier to monitor and add). For example I have 4 t5 bulbs on my low tech tank and if I use just 2 I have no change in pH, I have no algae problem. If I switch on another 2 pH rises by 0,2 during the day and I get algae issues. Using just 2 lamps does not allow me to grow demanding plants but swords, Java fern- they are growing very well. What concerns the time of illumination then I have found it is best to have lights on ca 12 hours. Many aquarists use 1h brake during the day. They say that this does not harm plants but keeps algae under control. I have never had a reason to try this though. Take a look at this article also http://www.tropica.com/advising/types-of-aquaria/fish-aquaria/discus-aquaria.aspx

[BABYJIZAY]

Wow, that was a really good article thank you!! Totally changed my ideas. I love this forum. :)

[aix1]

Always glad to help :D Changed my thoughts also years ago...

Ailar

[Apistomaster]

Tropica is definitely an authority on plants.
One Echinodoras they were too humble to mention that complements the large E bleheri is the Echinodorus parviflorus Variety "Tropica". It is a very nice middle range sized specie/variety which looks like a 6 to 8 inch maximum sized version of the big Amazon Sword. It has the same requirements.

I recommend using a power head rated at about 600 lph/160 US gph out put with the intake connected to some pre-filter. Discus appreciate a gentle flow or circulation of water through your tank in addition to your primary filter. Only in some areas are Discus trapped in bodies of water without any flow at all. Much of the year they are a fish of the flooded forest and there is a broad but gentle flow of water.

Do not try to grow out Discus in a planted tank. Because it is always best to begin with young Discus if you are choosing domestic bred Discus and during the first 8 to 10 months it takes to grow them out to about 5 inches or so you have to feed them more often. Once they are around 5 inches in diameter they only need to be fed 2 or 3 times a day and only how much they can eat in about 5-10 minutes. During the main growth sequence you feed more food more frequently and a simpler set up will make maintenance easier.
You can still use potted plants and those attached to wood. Use a bare bottom or a thin sprinkling of sand on the bottom if you like the look. I happen to like a little sand but the idea is keep it simple until they are nearly full grown and need less feeding.

One or two common Bushy Nose "Pleco", Ancistrus cf. cirrhosus makes a good algae eating fish. I keep one adult male common bushy Nose in my 125 gal wild Discus tank.
This species is well behaved towards Discus. They recommended Otocinclus. Those are fine but they and Farlowella are not as good at eating most of the algae off the glass. They are better than Bushy Noses at cleaning algae from the leaves of plants.

[Apistomaster]

I use a low tech approach and my lights are left on continuously for 12 to 14 hours a day.
The exact photo period depends on your choices in plants and type and wattage of lights you use. Sometimes enough light enters the room to allow for a shorter photo period so that means you have to try different photo periods until you find one that works best for your plants. I prefer continuous photoperiods rather than 6 hours on, an hour off and 6 hours on, for an example.

[Herbicidal]

Take a look at this article also http://www.tropica.com/advising/types-of-aquaria/fish-aquaria/discus-aquaria.aspxThanks for the link. That was a good read. :) Personally, I need to work on obtaining a few more plants (just picked up some free Java Moss and Java Fern) and get going on a fertilizer routine.

Good luck with your project BABYJIZAY. :thumbsup: