Another CO2 Question

[DiscusLoverJeff]

Hello friends,

I have a 95 gallon planted discus tank that I am running pressurized CO2 in. The water parameters are TDS 100, ph 6.5, kh at 2, temp at 85 and using 80/20 RO/Tap.

Here is the problem. Before co2 I had plants that were not growing very well even though according to experts from this website I had plenty of light (4 6700k 55 watt bulbs). Since my introduction of co2 about 6 months ago, my plants started getting greener and were growing at a good rate. I had very little green algae and no brown. Now, 6 months later, I appear to be getting more green algae and all my water parameters are the same. I use Excel to supplement the nutrients. Same routine on the Excel as I have since the beginning.

I am using a "super diffuser" for co2 and I have a drop checker that shows green every week that I change the solution.

I think I may be injecting too much co2? I show on my bubble counter 2/3 bubbles per second and 35psi which was need to operate the super diffuser properly according to the company. I installed the diffuser about 2 months ago.

How do you really know if you are injecting too much co2 or too little?

Thanks again for all your help.

[2wheelsx2]

Is the algae hard green spots? You're not dosing any fertilizers? Have you checked the nitrate and phosphate levels? It's likely that with the increased health of the plants due to the CO2 injection that the plants are outstripping the nutrients being supplied by the fish waste and that you'll have to start dosing ferts to keep the plants growing. If your drop checker is green and your fish do not appear distressed then you're not injecting too much.

[DiscusLoverJeff]

I did forget to mention that the nitrate/nitrites and phosphates are all good. As far as ferts, I had these capsules I picked up that you plant every few inches in the substrate and they were to last 6 months, but can't remember the name. The green algae is in spots and some fine hairs growing now.

[jcardona1]

I know several people here will disagree with me, but I say you have too much light. 98% of algae problems are caused by too much light and/or not enough co2. Cut back on your lighting, and you'll eliminate your algae problems. These tanks here both had only 2x T5HO bulbs, and they were considered high light. People here would say that 4x T5HO bulbs is high light, I say it's overkill.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/5122602308_2e968122a7_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5125/5225003283_2aeb938840_b.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l55/jcardona1/Aquarium/DSC03574-2.jpg?t=1306432355

[2wheelsx2]

Green spot algae means low phosphates and fine hair algae suggests insufficient CO2. Your plant mass has exceeded what's available.

[jcardona1]

I think I may be injecting too much co2?

Too much Co2 doesn't cause algae problems, your light does.

[2wheelsx2]

I agree with Jose. Lowering your light would lower the nutrient (CO2, N, P, K) demand. You might want to consider raising the lights and/or reducing the photoperiod.

[DiscusLoverJeff]

Thanks friends for the good advice. I will lower my light duration first and see how that effects the algae. I am running my CF about 10 hours for 4 bulbs and 12 hours for 2 bulbs.

So if I switch to T5 then I will only need 2 bulbs instead of the 4; that makes sense. I figure with my tank depth of 24" I needed the extra light to pentrate the bottom of the 4" substrate.

Should I stick with the lower 6500k bulbs or one of each 6500k and 10000k?

Thanks again for the great advice.

Also, I mentioned I am using Seachem Excel but I am also using Flourish as well.

[jcardona1]

Thanks friends for the good advice. I will lower my light duration first and see how that effects the algae. I am running my CF about 10 hours for 4 bulbs and 12 hours for 2 bulbs.

So if I switch to T5 then I will only need 2 bulbs instead of the 4; that makes sense. I figure with my tank depth of 24" I needed the extra light to pentrate the bottom of the 4" substrate.

Should I stick with the lower 6500k bulbs or one of each 6500k and 10000k?

Thanks again for the great advice.

Sorry, didn't realize your were using PC bulbs, I thought you had T5HO. Switching to T5HO would mean even more light. On all my tanks, I always ran 7-8hr photoperiods. In the first tank, the light fixture was 8-10" off the tank. I'd start by switching to 8hrs, and raising the light fixture 5-6". PAR decreases rapidly when raising the light fixture.

Another thing you can do, is increase your co2. My drop checker was bright yellow all day. Add more surface agitation and crank up the co2. More surface agitation means more dissolved oxygen in the water, which means you can run higher co2 levels in the tank without affecting the fish. If you have low levels of oxygen (very little surface agitation) and your drop checker is already green, trying to increase your co2 may send your fish up to the surface gasping for air.

[DiscusLoverJeff]

Great tanks Jose! You really have a green thumb and a very creative mind. Your arrangement is beautiful. Damn wish I could do that in my 95 gallon tank.

[DiscusLoverJeff]

I do have good water movement with my AquaClear 110 on one end and my Fluval 405 on the other. I also have a 3 foot bubble bar on the bottom/back of the tank. I have my co2 coming out right under the movement of the AQ filter to help force the co2 throughout the tank.

I did increase the co2 about a month ago, but did notice the discus starting to freak out, so I back it down.

The light I can raise on the compact florescent, it is now about 6" above the water. Just have to figure out how to hang the fixture instead, it has no hanging attachments.

Thanks for the advice.

[DiscusLoverJeff]

What are the best dry fertilizers for a planted tank and good source? Any SD venders selling?

[jcardona1]

What are the best dry fertilizers for a planted tank and good source? Any SD venders selling?

Thanks for the feedback :)

As for dry ferts, you really should be adding all the required ferts on a regular schedule. You have the light and the co2, you also need the ferts to keep everything balance. A complete fert routine should consist of macro nutrients (N, P, K) and micros (CSM+B to supply trace minerals). I buy mine here: http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizers-supplements/micro-macro-fertilizers.html

I also add iron, which is optional.

[2wheelsx2]

If you have a hydroponics store nearby (they're a dime a dozen around here), then you can pick most of it up there. There's where I got mine.