Is this a drain? Plumbing question: Can you ID these? It's in the baement

[ericatdallas]

66986

I'm hoping this is a drain and that's a water source. I don't know anything about plumbing so... This is in the basement. BtW, if this is a drain, how could I tap into it? Safest method?

Thanks in advance for the ID (if possible).

http://www.lamspot.com/basement/upload_basement_pvc2.jpg

http://www.lamspot.com/basement/IMGP0061.JPG

http://www.lamspot.com/basement/IMGP0062.JPG

http://www.lamspot.com/basement/IMGP0065.JPG

[ericatdallas]

Okay, I guess it's a cleanout. This is what I found... any ideas, suggestions, warnings, whatever about using this? Best practices? Cautionary tales?

Thanks,
Eric

http://www.homerepairforum.com/images/uploads/2006-1-15_clean_out_extension_w550.JPG

[Keith Perkins]

Well, sort of. The white PVC with the square nut looking thing on it is a clean out access. Roto Rooter type guys would use that as an access if you ever encountered a blockage of some sort. I wouldn't think it would have a trap in it so you'll have to be careful about using it so you don't get sewer gas in the house. With the right connections it definitely can be used though. Your local hardware store guy should be able to help you out.

The copper pipe is a water line, and conveniently has a great ball valve shut off on it.

[Skip]

yep.. clean out

[Keith Perkins]

If you take that diagram you posted to the local hardware store they can provide what you need or perhaps even a simpler cheaper version of basically the same thing. With that you should be good to go.

[ericatdallas]

How would I tap into the water? Do I need to cut copper pipe? I'm assuming cold water only right?

[Keith Perkins]

It's impossible to tell just looking at the picture, but I'm guessing by the ground that's attached to it that that's your supply line coming into the house which is obviously cold water if that's the case. Whether you have to cut the line of not sort of depends what you're intention is. If you're thinking of hooking an RO unit or something up to it, or even if you're not I guess, they do make "saddles" that you can attach to a water line that just tap into the line. Flow rate is slower than out of say a faucet then, but if you don't need the flow rate it would be the easier way for you to go.

[Bud Smith]

That is
Okay, I guess it's a cleanout. This is what I found... any ideas, suggestions, warnings, whatever about using this? Best practices? Cautionary tales?

Thanks,
Eric

that is a clean out for a storm or sanitary drain - the diagram looks ok - I would add a back flow preventor in the 1 1/2 inch drain line so if there is ever a back-up
you do not have nastys coming into your drain pipe - as was mentioned sewer gas is a concern do add the trap in the 1 1/2 inch pipe

the ball valve I presume is for your cold water feed for your house or something else - as was mentioned if you tap into this line what do you want to do?
looks like 3/4 inch - tell me what you want to do and maybe I can help
http://www.homerepairforum.com/images/uploads/2006-1-15_clean_out_extension_w550.JPG

[DonMD]

Eric,

The copper looks like a 3/4 inch cold water supply. You can tap into it, but I don't recommend a saddle, those can fail. You can turn off the water to the house with that valve, then cut the pipe (on the house side of the valve ! ! ! ! ! ! !, not the street side!), and sweat a 3/4 - 3/4 - 1/2 tee on, then put a 1/2 valve on the 1/2 side, turn the new valve closed, open the 3/4 valve, and your house has water again. Then at your leisure you can plumb whatever you want after the 1/2 valve. If you don't know how to sweat those copper fittings, you might have a plumber come in and put in the main tee and valve, and then an adaptor to pvc, which you can later run easily without having to sweat copper fittings. Just some thoughts. Good luck! -Don

[roundfishross]

Eric,

The copper looks like a 3/4 inch cold water supply. You can tap into it, but I don't recommend a saddle, those can fail. You can turn off the water to the house with that valve, then cut the pipe (on the house side of the valve ! ! ! ! ! ! !, not the street side!), and sweat a 3/4 - 3/4 - 1/2 tee on, then put a 1/2 valve on the 1/2 side, turn the new valve closed, open the 3/4 valve, and your house has water again. Then at your leisure you can plumb whatever you want after the 1/2 valve. If you don't know how to sweat those copper fittings, you might have a plumber come in and put in the main tee and valve, and then an adaptor to pvc, which you can later run easily without having to sweat copper fittings. Just some thoughts. Good luck! -Don

plus one Don! this can turn into a real mess of a nightmare if not done correctly. at least some plumbing experience is highly recomended!

[Bud Smith]

In reference to the cold water valve - if Eric is not used to sweating copper joints he can use shark bites (found at Lowes, ect.) - they are fittings that just snap on the water line and will hold fine (no leaks) - people who are not used to doing plumbing can use these to do a minor repair or upgrade

[morgs8u]

don't cut the copper without using a bridging strap ( jumper leads ) unless you want to get electrocuted

[ericatdallas]

I appreciate the help/input from everyone. I think I might ask a friend or a plumber for help on the water supply, but the drain I think I can do myself. The setup depicted above, is that how you would do it? All I want to do is something simple. Maybe a PVC with a GHT that I can just put a hose on it and pump water into it. I would also like to put a one-way valve just as a precaution from backflow (just in case?). I'm assuming any changes I make are easily reversible on that.

My main concern is sewer gas and backflow. I would hate to flood the basement with sewage, ESPECIALLY when it's not my house but either way I tihnk I would be quite upset.

Any ideas? Thanks!

[Al M.]

Hey erictdallas

As A lisc. Master pumber, your set up looks pretty good......do you have A floor drain on that level? if you do I would't use A back flow Preventer or anything, because if you haveA back up the first place you'll see it is from your floor drain......

The other thing is if you have A vent you can tie into I would vent that trap that you are putting in.....

As for A water supply just shut off that valve and cut in A tee for A branch an add another valve on your new supply branch....

[ericatdallas]

Hey erictdallas

As A lisc. Master pumber, your set up looks pretty good......do you have A floor drain on that level? if you do I would't use A back flow Preventer or anything, because if you haveA back up the first place you'll see it is from your floor drain......

The other thing is if you have A vent you can tie into I would vent that trap that you are putting in.....

As for A water supply just shut off that valve and cut in A tee for A branch an add another valve on your new supply branch....

Hey thanks for the reply!

Do I have to use a vent? It's on the other side of the basement. I read on another forum that I have to vent it. The basement is finished, so if there is a floor drain, I don't know where it is b/c the whole place is tiled or carpeted over. I've looked and I really wish there was b/c then I could just dump the water into the drain.

There is a "drain" but it's got a sump pump in it to pump water out. Not sure where it goes but I also don't think I want to mess with that one.

This isn't my house. I'm renting so I'm also going to be conservative in what I do (definitely to code and definitely as much preventative measures I can think of).

Another idea I've been toying with is somehow modify it or use it only for WC and then close/cap it. I don't need a continuous drain, just need it open for 30-60 minutes per day max.

[morgs8u]

you should have a org ( overflow relief gully ) out side your house which is lower then where your tapping into so you shouldnt have a sewage back up into your house as for a vent you could always use a air admittance valve

[ericatdallas]

What is a practical way for me to have an ORG outside that is lower than the cleanout in my basement? If my basement was ground level, I would have a different set of issues...

[Al M.]

Eric

If it were me and I was renting I would screw A female addaptor like it shows in your diagram and I would run a piece of pipe staight up to what ever height you need it and put A solid cap on it, do not glue it on, and when ever you make A water change pull off change your water and when you are done push it back on......If and when you are not gonna rent any more unscrew the female addaptor and screw your pug back in.....

[Jhhnn]

Okay, I guess it's a cleanout. This is what I found... any ideas, suggestions, warnings, whatever about using this? Best practices? Cautionary tales?

Thanks,
Eric

http://www.homerepairforum.com/images/uploads/2006-1-15_clean_out_extension_w550.JPG

You're on the right track. I'd approach the drain/trap a little differently, putting the cleanout cap on the side of the Y, turning it perpendicular to the wall, plumbing the new drain & trap straight out the top. I'd also step up to 2" schedule 40 pipe & trap- it costs little more.

At the top of the Y, use a bushing to reduce to 2", then a short length of pipe to a 2" Y. From the side of the Y, use a 2" street 45 to turn horizontally to the trap, which can be several feet away. The horizontal section should slope at 1/4"/foot towards the sewer. Put a standpipe on top of the trap- anything over 18" should be fine. On the top of the standpipe, install a a threaded adapter so that a plug can be screwed in lightly when the system is not in use. Back at the 2" Y, pipe vertically up to near the ceiling, install one of these vent valves at the top-

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100201861/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

The valve should prevent any backflow of gasses or sewage into the house, and putting it up as high as possible just makes it safer. The valve doesn't meet code in most locations, but are widely used anyway.

If you're completely inexperienced with soldering copper pipe, you'll want somebody who is experienced to do the job on the water supply.

Consider installing a free standing plastic utility sink rather than just a drain w/ standpipe- mighty handy for cleaning out filters & etc...

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100415928/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I'm pretty good at helping people spend money, huh?

[jeralar]

Really great info on this thread! I'm pretty terrible at the plumbing aspects relating to my tank. So I was wondering if just calling some San Jose plumbers in my area would suffice or would I need a specialist if and when I encounter a problem?

[ericatdallas]

I ended up saving a lot of trouble by tapping into existing pipes. I knew my maximum flow rate would never exceed the 2" pipes so I really think that's the way to go. PVC was much easier to work with than I even imagined and I'm already working on a more massive project. But yeah, it might be a good idea to have a friend or plumber's number ready to call for emergency.