RO/DI - Install question

[Larry Bugg]

Even though Atlanta has great water I been considering RO/DI to help in my quest to start breeding my Wilds. I have done a ton of reading and have about narrowed down my selection to this system. http://www.purewaterclub.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=288. The RO/DI system will feed into my 330 gallon storage tote. I don't use the total 330 gallons daily but 2 to 3 days a week I do use it all so that is the reason for a 300GPD unit. I have read some good reviews here about PureWaterClub and the price is excellent. I sent them a email with my question but haven't received an answer so I thought I would post it here and see if anyone has the answer for me. This system is listed as dual outlet so it has one outlet for the aquarium and the other is for drinking water. In order to get the 300 gallon output would I just run the tubing from both outlets to my stroage tank? Is there any drawback to doing this? I'm not interested in drinking water from the unit. One other question. In the specifications for the different filters it list the average replacement time and most are months or years but the DI filter shows 500 gallons. Would this be correct? That would mean I would be replacing the filter about ever other use. That doesn't seem right?

[TURQ64]

I buy and change prefilters in bulk. But I have two different DI styles at present..The refillable ones aren't good for many gallons, but the color changing, mixed bed spendier ones go farther for me..I am able to switch out of the DI's and just make product water from the RO, so the bulk of my gallons comes that way, with the DI water in smaller quantity..saves a little replacement time..

[Larry Bugg]

Thanks for the reply Gary. That is a thought to keep in mind. I don't know that the DI is really a complete necessity in my case anyway. I would like to have a feel for how the two outputs work before making the decision.

[JamesHe]

Get a TDS meter, monitor the reading, and you know the time to change filters.

There is some in-line type to monitor the tap water and RO/DI water at same time, but pay a little more.

[TURQ64]

I'm not sure regarding the unit you are looking at, but with the slip fit connections, you can step in and out of many DI's..otherwise, aftermarket, they aren't too spendy to add on..In my case, just my RO starts around the TDS I begin with..saves a lot of adding back stuff in my wild tanks..

[shoveltrash]

interesting link.....I was under the impression that >150gpd required more pressure, say, a booster pump.
the pressure on my RO unit is 50, so I'm glad I got a 100gpd.
however I got home last night from work to find leaks & standing water under my sink (!). <sigh>
but I had a 55g container full of RO water! :)

why do you want DI?

the 2 outputs might indeed increase your end product volume, that's a question I'd want to ask the company. do they have a phone #?
I'm kind of funny re customer service.......I depend on it, and if the company doesn't respond, I don't buy.

[Larry Bugg]

interesting link.....I was under the impression that >150gpd required more pressure, say, a booster pump.
the pressure on my RO unit is 50, so I'm glad I got a 100gpd.
however I got home last night from work to find leaks & standing water under my sink (!). <sigh>
but I had a 55g container full of RO water! :)

why do you want DI?

the 2 outputs might indeed increase your end product volume, that's a question I'd want to ask the company. do they have a phone #?
I'm kind of funny re customer service.......I depend on it, and if the company doesn't respond, I don't buy.

I don't have to have DI but with all my searching this is the best unit for the price that does give me what I want and the DI happens to be on it. I believe I read that they will consider taking components off of a system if desired. Since I'm not interested in the dirinking water output I will also contact them and see about deleting the drinking water storage tank and related items for either a reduced price or for some other items I could use like a additional cutoff valve and float valve. Will see. There were several positive reviews here on Simply for them and that is what led me to their site in the first place.

[Discus Origins]

Sent you a pm Larry.

[jimg]

I would just go with this http://www.purewaterclub.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=371,you can always add a piggy back membrane to get more gpd but as far as I know, you'll need 70 psi for 2 membranes piggy backed.
I had set up mine with 2 membranes and went back top using 2 separate 100 gpd units. (actually I think i have a 75 gpd and a 100gpd) I would question their 2:1 ratio too.

I would lose the di though

[Larry Bugg]

I would just go with this http://www.purewaterclub.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=371,you can always add a piggy back membrane to get more gpd but as far as I know, you'll need 70 psi for 2 membranes piggy backed.
I had set up mine with 2 membranes and went back top using 2 separate 100 gpd units. (actually I think i have a 75 gpd and a 100gpd) I would question their 2:1 ratio too.

I would lose the di though

Thanks Jim. I had wondered if I might be better off to just get two 150GPD units to get my desired 300GPD. The price point would be about the same.

[jimg]

Thanks Jim. I had wondered if I might be better off to just get two 150GPD units to get my desired 300GPD. The price point would be about the same.I think so, it just seems your being made to buy things you don't need. just check into the 150 gpd membranes, last I knew, if I remember right a lot of companies stopped selling the 150gpd membranes. I think the amount of removal wasn't as high as a 100 or a 75gpd membrane. do you think 2 100 gpd units would serve you?

[jimfur]

Larry,
Don't you need the DI to remove the phosphates from the water. Our water here in Atlanta is already soft so the filters are going to last a long time compared to other areas with hard water. I had a tap water purifier last me 6 months on water changes but it is because our water is at 60ppm already but it did remove the phosphates which our water is heavy in. (bearded algae issue). I may be wrong but I thought that was the case.

Jim
Dacula GA

[Larry Bugg]

I think so, it just seems your being made to buy things you don't need. just check into the 150 gpd membranes, last I knew, if I remember right a lot of companies stopped selling the 150gpd membranes. I think the amount of removal wasn't as high as a 100 or a 75gpd membrane. do you think 2 100 gpd units would serve you?

I would have to really think about it but I would rather have more capacity than I need than not enough.

[Discus Origins]

Larry, you saw the monster 300gpd RO/DI unit at my warehouse...we thought a pump was needed but ended up our tap pressure was more than enough to keep it running. My tap TDS is around 200ppm and in 3 months of keeping that big reservoir full at all times we've only had to change the DI resin once so far.

Very simple setup and def produces enough product water.

[Larry Bugg]

Larry,
Don't you need the DI to remove the phosphates from the water. Our water here in Atlanta is already soft so the filters are going to last a long time compared to other areas with hard water. I had a tap water purifier last me 6 months on water changes but it is because our water is at 60ppm already but it did remove the phosphates which our water is heavy in. (bearded algae issue). I may be wrong but I thought that was the case.

Jim

Dacula GA

I think from what I have read a standard R/O unit doesn't do much for Phosphates and you are right a DI will remove them but I'm just trying to remember what I have read so I'm really not sure. I haven't worried to much about algae since all my tanks except for the 125 wild tanks are bare bottom and they get wiped down. I do have a little bit of algae in one of my 125's but that is because I have too much light over it. Something else to consider. Isn't it great to have a place like Simply where great questions get bounced off of your before you make the decisions. Keep the thoughts coming..................