Sasha
01-28-2012, 05:16 PM
I have 2 tanks: a 10 gal quarantine (one 5.5 inch discus) and a 39 gallon main tank (three 5.5-6.0 inch discus).
Well water, circulated and heated at least overnight if not longer, settles at a PH of 8.2. I've been using this water for my discus water changes with relatively few water issues.
Needed to dose QuickCure in quarantine tank every other day for 3 weeks to address external protozoa. QuickCure messed with the biological balance. So now I am going thru a mini cycle and need to keep quarantine water parameters in check via frequent water changes. I noticed that the quarantined discus began stressing with each large water change (60-70%), so I checked PH and was surprised to find it at 7.6. My main tank reads at 8.2, just like my aged clean water does.
I am wondering what is causing the PH in the quarantine tank to stay so low? Both tanks have dKH of 8, which should be enough to hold the PH stable. I do use Wonder Shells to ensure that I have enough buffering capacity in the water.
Water parameters in quarantine tank (3 week dosing of QuickCure):
Ammonia: 0.25-0.50 ppm
Nitrites: barely registering any (below 0.25)
Nitrates: I'm struggling to keep them low. They've been as high as 40 ppm.
dkh: 8
PH: 7.6
temp: 85-86 degrees
Water parameters in main tank (one time dose of QuickCure):
Ammonia: 0 - 0.25
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 10 ppm
dkh: 8
PH: 8.2
temp: 85-85 degrees
Given the ammonia and nitrate levels, I want to keep up with water changes in the quarantine tank, but I'm concerned about how to change enough water without causing osmotic shock. I've resorted to doing 2-3 mini water changes each day, each approx 20%. But I'm still struggling to keep the parameters in check with that approach. I have used PRIME to help offset the ammonia, but with the frequent water changes I'm not sure how much to dose and when. This fish does seem to have some gill issues - his respiration is rather fast, although he has never gasped for air. I turkey baste out the poop and leftover food 2-3 times per day, rinse the filter floss in cool well water each day. I have recently begin adding some salt to the water after each change at 1 Tbsp per 5 gallons of water
To complicate my water issues, I got a microscope for Christmas and I believe I have confirmed the presence of skin flukes (Gyrodactylus). I also have the presence of some Tetrahymena, which appear to have survived in relatively small numbers despite the QuickCure. I am new at all of this, so I am not 100% sure of my "diagnosis" based on the slide. I did not do a scraping, but have witnessed what I think are flukes when scoping some of the residue from the HOB filter. I've ordered Anti-Fluke Live Bearer and want to begin treating with that for the flukes when it arrives. I've never used that stuff before but Eddie and others on this site seem to indicate it is the best treatment.
So.... any idea why the PH in the quarantine tank is so dramatically different than the main tank? And should I continue with the mini water changes?
Thank you!
Well water, circulated and heated at least overnight if not longer, settles at a PH of 8.2. I've been using this water for my discus water changes with relatively few water issues.
Needed to dose QuickCure in quarantine tank every other day for 3 weeks to address external protozoa. QuickCure messed with the biological balance. So now I am going thru a mini cycle and need to keep quarantine water parameters in check via frequent water changes. I noticed that the quarantined discus began stressing with each large water change (60-70%), so I checked PH and was surprised to find it at 7.6. My main tank reads at 8.2, just like my aged clean water does.
I am wondering what is causing the PH in the quarantine tank to stay so low? Both tanks have dKH of 8, which should be enough to hold the PH stable. I do use Wonder Shells to ensure that I have enough buffering capacity in the water.
Water parameters in quarantine tank (3 week dosing of QuickCure):
Ammonia: 0.25-0.50 ppm
Nitrites: barely registering any (below 0.25)
Nitrates: I'm struggling to keep them low. They've been as high as 40 ppm.
dkh: 8
PH: 7.6
temp: 85-86 degrees
Water parameters in main tank (one time dose of QuickCure):
Ammonia: 0 - 0.25
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 10 ppm
dkh: 8
PH: 8.2
temp: 85-85 degrees
Given the ammonia and nitrate levels, I want to keep up with water changes in the quarantine tank, but I'm concerned about how to change enough water without causing osmotic shock. I've resorted to doing 2-3 mini water changes each day, each approx 20%. But I'm still struggling to keep the parameters in check with that approach. I have used PRIME to help offset the ammonia, but with the frequent water changes I'm not sure how much to dose and when. This fish does seem to have some gill issues - his respiration is rather fast, although he has never gasped for air. I turkey baste out the poop and leftover food 2-3 times per day, rinse the filter floss in cool well water each day. I have recently begin adding some salt to the water after each change at 1 Tbsp per 5 gallons of water
To complicate my water issues, I got a microscope for Christmas and I believe I have confirmed the presence of skin flukes (Gyrodactylus). I also have the presence of some Tetrahymena, which appear to have survived in relatively small numbers despite the QuickCure. I am new at all of this, so I am not 100% sure of my "diagnosis" based on the slide. I did not do a scraping, but have witnessed what I think are flukes when scoping some of the residue from the HOB filter. I've ordered Anti-Fluke Live Bearer and want to begin treating with that for the flukes when it arrives. I've never used that stuff before but Eddie and others on this site seem to indicate it is the best treatment.
So.... any idea why the PH in the quarantine tank is so dramatically different than the main tank? And should I continue with the mini water changes?
Thank you!