Discus & water changes..could it be what we're putting in rather than taking out?

[JenTN]

Okay, bear with me. I understand discus need tons of fresh, clean water. But after reading through some books and my own observations in a short time I got to thinking. I noticed that my discus seem to be affected by 2 missed wc, yet my nitrate reading was still 1-5. In reading, I learned that discus use up minerals in the water more quickly than other tropicals because of the shedding of mucous..minerals they need. I dont doubt they are sensitive to nitrates, but could the minerals be part of the equation? Could this be why planted tanks are bad for juvies, because plants use up the minerals as well? Or am I crazy lol?

[Chicago Discus]

Okay, bear with me. I understand discus need tons of fresh, clean water. But after reading through some books and my own observations in a short time I got to thinking. I noticed that my discus seem to be affected by 2 missed wc, yet my nitrate reading was still 1-5. In reading, I learned that discus use up minerals in the water more quickly than other tropicals because of the shedding of mucous..minerals they need. I dont doubt they are sensitive to nitrates, but could the minerals be part of the equation? Could this be why planted tanks are bad for juvies, because plants use up the minerals as well? Or am I crazy lol?

I think your on to something, The problem that I found with planted tanks is your always trying to keep the plants alive and to many water changes on a planted tank equals no plants and not enough water changes equals stunted discus. So no matter how you look at, the plants need one thing and the young discus need another. The only way it works in my opinion is to start off with large discus in a planed tank.
I have tried when I started keeping discus to grow young discus in a planted tank and all I ended up with where some really pretty stunted discus......Josie

[ExReefer]

I noticed that my discus seem to be affected by 2 missed wc, yet my nitrate reading was still 1-5.

I don't think that's it as I know some successful discus hobbyists keep discus in RO water or low TDS water.

Assuming low nitrates exist, I think discus are mostly affected by the build up of dissolved organic compounds (DOC's) in the water. DOC's can only be removed by WC's. I bet if many of us tested nitrates before and after a WC, the difference will be minimal. Even more so if you are siphoning out uneaten food and waste between WC's.

Try this if you have TDS meter. Test before and after a WC (after waiting 48-72 between WC's). You should notice a lower TDS reading after the WC. This is evidence of the reduction in DOC's and it's why I believe discus (and any fish) always respond favorably immediately after a WC.

[Orange Crush]

I don't think that's it as I know some successful discus hobbyists keep discus in RO water or low TDS water.

Assuming low nitrates exist, I think discus are mostly affected by the build up of dissolved organic compounds (DOC's) in the water. DOC's can only be removed by WC's. I bet if many of us tested nitrates before and after a WC, the difference will be minimal. Even more so if you are siphoning out uneaten food and waste between WC's.

Try this if you have TDS meter. Test before and after a WC (after waiting 48-72 between WC's). You should notice a lower TDS reading after the WC. This is evidence of the reduction in DOC's and it's why I believe discus (and any fish) always respond favorably immediately after a WC.
So if someone has really low TDS after a water change they would be able to go longer without doing a water change assuming everything else like nitrtes were ok?

[shoveltrash]

Try this if you have TDS meter. Test before and after a WC (after waiting 48-72 between WC's). You should notice a lower TDS reading after the WC. This is evidence of the reduction in DOC's and it's why I believe discus (and any fish) always respond favorably immediately after a WC.
I'm an obsessive TDS monitorer - I think this might very well be correct.

[ExReefer]

So if someone has really low TDS after a water change they would be able to go longer without doing a water change assuming everything else like nitrtes were ok?

It's impossible not see a rise in TDS if you are feeding your discus properly. It's not about keeping TDS low, it's about keeping it consistent. For example, if your TDS after a WC is 200, then you want to keep it as close to 200 as possible. The only way to accomplish that is to not feed your fish at all or perform regular WC's.

Keeping water parameters consistent is what makes discus thrive in captivity. If you go too long between WC's, you TDS will rise (normal). If you let it go too long, your fish will stress from the increase in TDS and quite possibly from high nitrates. When you finally perform the WC, you reset everything back to "normal". If you wait too long to do this, the large change in water chemisty can also stress the discus.

[discussmith]

Fish don't pee in the water, yet their normal respiration does the equivalent. Not to mention the byproducts you can see. Just because you have a low TDS does not mean that most of the TDS you measure is mineral. DOC's can be removed by other means than water change. It is more cost efficient for most however. Chad Hughs and some others have been able to reduce water changes by using ozone. It is very effective at removing DOC's but is not for the novice. It is a great solution for those who can afford it and who know how to use it.