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fdlacy
06-14-2012, 02:06 AM
I would like some feedback on this filtration layout. Please understand, my thought & goals are (1) to use what I have, (2) to keep as much solid food/waste as possible out of my canister, (3) to be able to move my heater out of my main tank which is only a 55 gallon, (4) add a minimal amount of extra water volume to the setup due to addition of sump volume. The picture below show what I have in mind.

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Basic idea is to plumb an overflow into a sock filter to catch all the junk, and then attach my canister intake to the "strained" water before it returns as normal to my tank. I will use a standard ball valve on the plumbed line to balance flow rate as needed.

My tank has a very thin layer of PFS, perfect water parameters, and acceptable bio load. I perform a 70% WC every 1-2 days using aged tap from a 55 gallon storage barrel that is aerated, circulated and heated. Currently, my spray bar causes adequate surface agitation over about 60% of the surface and I have a bubble disk on the far side which I plan to replace with a Hydro Sponge (I have one cycled in another tank) to accomplish the same thing but with added bio filtration.

I would greatly appreciate any feedback, ideas, considerations I may have overlooked within or outside of the goals I outlined above. I currently have 5 discus (4.5" - 5+") , 2 Cories and 1 BN Pleco in this tank with the Fluval 305 alone, but I was hoping this approach would serve to keep the tank even cleaner and further avoid the debris buildup disaster in the canister that can plague such filters.

Your feedback is greatly appreciated.

Darren

foreese
06-14-2012, 07:04 AM
Darren,

I wouldn't try and control the flow from the overflow (plumb) line, that can cause a flood. Typically, the flow is controlled via the return line. So, I would suggest adding the ball valve after the Fluval filter. Other than that it sounds like a fine plan. I had a similar setup on a 55 that ran for several years with very little filter maintenance.

Frank

fdlacy
06-14-2012, 08:07 AM
Darren,

I wouldn't try and control the flow from the overflow (plumb) line, that can cause a flood. Typically, the flow is controlled via the return line. So, I would suggest adding the ball valve after the Fluval filter. Other than that it sounds like a fine plan. I had a similar setup on a 55 that ran for several years with very little filter maintenance.

Frank

Frank:

Thanks for the follow-up. Do you think I would really need one after the Fluval, I would think I could control flow on that side with the built in power output control if it became necessary.

Darren

fdlacy
06-14-2012, 08:11 AM
Is there a chance the Fluval would not prime in this setup? Normally the intake side is about 2-3' above the floor where the canister sits which lets it take advantage of gravity fall. In this setup, the sump where the intake will be fed is on the same level as the Fluval. I know the water does not have to come up the strainer tube over the lip and then down, but I was wondering if this nearly side by side intake setup would be an issue. I need to look at the Fluval documentation. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated as manufacturers are usually not interested in creative solutions.

Thanks,

Darren

fdlacy
06-14-2012, 08:16 AM
Just Googled this setup, and my concerns about priming while Fluval and sump on same level may be well founded.

Link from Ultimate Reef (http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?t=463129)

Will I have the same problem, if so nice idea, but no go.

Darren