methylene blue
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methylene blue
Update: I have got 5-10 wigglers, the rest got fungi over, many dark eggs, I guess methylene blue concentration was low.
Why did you add MB so late (12 hrs), usually add MB
right after spawning. By the time you notice the eggs
turning black all of the MB should be removed and
move to clean clear water, this might be one of the problem. Another thing to look for is weak spawning,
the wrigglers are too weak to even break thru their
own shell. One problem leads to another weak spawn including wrigglers falling off the
cone early.
Cliff
What concentration of MB do you suggest?
How hard is moderately hard to you? Most breeder use a tds ppm of 50-80 but my tap is only 135-145ppm tds
Your Welcome Albanets.Quote:
Update: I have got 5-10 wigglers, the rest got fungi over, many dark eggs, I guess methylene blue concentration was low.
Oh, never mind, you didn't say thank you.
Rick Mileski Sr.
Thank you Rick! :) better later than never
I was just joking, let me know if there is anything else I can help youQuote:
Thank you Rick! better later than never
with.
Rick Mileski Sr.
Yep. Eggs in the community tank. Maybe a couple wigglers? Good. Then you know. But even if no wigglers, it's worth switching to an isolation breeder tank with half RO.
Worked for me.
The conventional wisdom is that hard water makes it hard for the spermatozoa to penetrate the ova. That comports with my experience of 20 years.
I've managed to successfully get my pair raised a fry on tap water on a 29 gal tank for the first time ever.
My PH is around 7.2 - 7.8 Temp 86F and when I used the API GH/KH test I needed more than 10 drops for it to change color so I kinda just gave up on it
What I've tried and failed:
- Using 50% DI water
- Caging the eggs
- Changing water prior to egg laying
- Using MB
On Feb 1st they decided to lay eggs on the water that I haven't changed in 3 days, sides of tank we're slightly algae covered
prior to them laying eggs I then forgot to move my corner filter back to each side on the long side so they were both on the short sides of the tank
and the tubing on the air pumps were apparently loose so its barely making any bubbles...one side of the tank has somewhat of water movement and the other side where the cone was has minimal to no water movement.
All these were due to the hustle and bustle from the Ms. being 8 months pregnant between doing house chores/work/dr appt
2 days after eggs were laid I get to change 50% of their water (so 5 days no WC)
for whatever magical reason after about 40x spawning failure, the eggs gotten to the wriggler stage - free swimmer - attached to mom n dad without issues.
Here's a link to what it looks like (notice there's no filter on the right side of tank) hopefully the link works
https://goo.gl/photos/zDJgiYuEu5qRpSdAA
Now they're the size of quarters and there are about 50 of them and I'm not even sure what to do with them all....my 2 weeks old baby is keeping very busy xD
Attachment 108169
Hope this helps. It's worth a try
I have the same TDS from my tap water around 25-30. Do I still need the r/o or I can go for water change only?
Same scenario with my pair, eggs turn white next day. What should i test my water for, kh or gh? Ive ordered a tds meter so i can test my water
richard hao
richard hao is offline
I only test my breeders water with a tds meter and keep it around 75 for a good hatch rate and at times I've had it a lot lower with no problem. I never ever test my pH no need to. I used to measure my pH when I started in the 70's when I read all those books about raising and breeding discus. Many people still do it like the book says for years and years and it works, the problem is they still think there way is the only way because that's what the books say.Quote:
Same scenario with my pair, eggs turn white next day. What should i test my water for, kh or gh? Ive ordered a tds meter so i can test my water
Rick Mileski Sr