Printable View
I have a 95 gal tank and I want it make my water changes easier. The tank is near a window I was thinking of placing a big plastic tank out side by the faucet. Then maybe just plastic tubing in and out of the window. Does anyone have videos of pictures of ideas like this. Am I right that if I take straight tap water and let it sit for 12 hours it will be fine to add back with no chemicals. Please help thanks
You need to heat the water to the same temperature as the tank. Check to see if your water company uses chlorine or chlorimides to treat the water. You may still need to use a water treatment to remove those chemicals. most use prime or safe from seachem. also, there may be micro-bubbles from CO2, if it is added by the company. we will need to out-gas this from your water barrel before placing it into the tank. using an air stone will help with this. most age their water for 24 hours before it is added to their tanks.
The water you are aging should still always be treated with a dechlorinator. I age for 24 hours and still use it. I have always used Sea Chem's Prime or Safe. The Safe is great for large volumes- you just need a tiny bit.
I am assuming you will be heating the water to the tank temperature before you use it as well. Have you done a ph test to make sure there is not a swing in the ph between your tap and the tank? Test your water out of the tap and then age some in a bucket with an air stone for 24 hours and test again. You would not need to age the water if it is the same.
I age the water even though I don't need to. My sink is not easily accessible -so I fill a large barrel on a dolly and heat it right next to the tank. I then drain the water out the window into a gutter that takes it from the house. Next year I would like to figure out a way to reuse the water in maybe some kind of automatic watering system for the flowers.
Sorry I had pics but can't find them. They are on a post somewhere on the forum. I will check later...
I have a 90g tank 3' from a window, first floor, rear. I cut a 2x4" to fit across the window and cut a semi circle out of the top edge to fit my hoses. I open the window, put the 2x4 across the bottom of the sash, pull the syphon into the room and close the window. The hose rests in the cutout and is not pintched. To refill the tank, I swap the syphon for the hose from a 60g pickle barell that is right outside the window. In the barell is a Finnex 300w heater with remote control, Eheim 1260 submersible pump, large air stone and thermometer. I had an electrician run a 20 amp outdoor outlet. IAttachment 111865Attachment 111866 cut a hole in a small plastic bin( with lid) to make a waterproof box. In the box is a surge protector, Finnex heater control, air pump and a remote control for the Eheim pump. The pickle barell was bought on Craig's List, Farm & Garden section, $ 19. The remote control was from Lowe's, used to turn onXmas lights in the yard.
Here are some additional pictures:Attachment 111868
This will depend alot on the water quality coming out of your tap, and how much you are allowed to mess with the area you tank is in. start by letting us know if there is chlorine or chlorimides in your water, also let us know the Nitrate, Nitrite and Ammonia levels out of tap. A drip system is the best idea for ease of water changes, however you would need access to water lines and the ability to make changes to the layout of the water lines, if you chose this route use PEX instead of trying to sweat pipes, just make sure you pay for push to connect fittings. If you go the route of large basin and pump be mindful of head height, depending on how far the run of pipe is and how much difference in elevation theres a good chance that the pump wont even get water to your tank. Finally regardless of how you do this you still need some way to drain water, ideally there is a gutter somewhere near your window, keep in mind however that you dont want your overflow to freeze in winter. start by answering those few questions in the beginning it will help us get an idea of what is possible in your situation. Also im guessing that you dont have a floor drain or any type of shower, toilet, or sink near by. If so it may be better to pipe overflow to that instead of out the window.
My city only uses chlorine.I don't use any dechlor when I age/aerate my water for a 24 hour period.However,I don't think 12 hours would be sufficient to gas of the chlorine.My water is a ph of 7.2-7.4 from tap depending on season.From the lake where the water comes from is about 6.4.Sodium hydroxide is used to increase ph by the city.
Also anyone have an idea on a way I could heat them? I'm thinking of filling both of them and just rotationing them every other day. Will this work even though there closed. With the clorine evaporate
Just curious. Is there a reason you don't want to use water dechlor when you fill the tank?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lewjo11
This ^ I don't understand why people are are opposed to treating their water??? You may be able to get away without it, but why? If you are spending hundreds or some cases thousands of dollars for fish , why would you even take the chance. For $13 you can get a 500ml bottle of Prime that will treat 5000 gallons of water. It's cheap insurance in my opinion.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan925
I'm not opposed and don't think anyone else is to treating water with a dechlor it's just not needed in some cases.I also use sodium thiosulfate when I need to dechlor water.You can't find anything cheaper that.Quote:
Originally Posted by EJ_B
Duh don't know why thiosulfate never crossed my mind. I get that wholesaleQuote:
Originally Posted by bluelagoon
I think that there is more in aquarium water conditioners than just dechlorisation I.e. sodium thiosulfate .
They are claimed to neutralise heavy metals and any other potential water pollutants , they help with potential ammonia , ammonium and nitrites in the water . Prime and some others even claim that they help in slime coat protection .
So i think that the range of action of water conditioners is much wider than just a plain sodium thiosulfate , although I think that s.thiosulfate is their main ingredient.
I think some use things like aloe plant in their conditioners for slime coat protection.Something else that is not needed IMO.