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Thank you for the nice comments!
About the lotus, they will stay compact if u trim the leaves that reach to the top but i am trying to do the opposite actually. I have seen a clip from the amazon river where fishes were swiming through very long lotus plants and it was amazing. I also want to create a nice atmosphere in the tank when all the leaves will reach the top.
There are two ways to get rid of cyano. First method would be an antibiotic like erythromycin. I would not take that route. I wouldn't be able to anyway because antibiotics are not sold without a prescription here. The second way is to blacken out your tank for 3-4 days with a blanket to kill the algae that the bacteria have in it to produce food for the bacteria. It'll take a long time to get rid of it with just clean water and siphoning.
When the tank becomes more established the primitive cyano and diatoms will be taken over by the more advanced life form like algae. That has been my experience with cyano.
Thank you for your advice. I looked on the internet and i will test the Easy life Blue exit as it has good reviews. I will keep you updated.
Great news!!! 12 discus are arriving next week, wednesday :guitarist: :drummer: very excited :D
I finished the diy food for them, hope they will like it...
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The only problem that remains is the cyano.... its still coming back. I have 20ppm No3, low light and a 900gal return pump thats making everything move gently in the aquarium.
The only thing that would give this bacteria a chance to come back would be my dose of Ammonia that keeps the filter alive. Would this make sense? I am very confused about this ... I have ordered a bottle of Easy Life Blue Exit to give it a shot...
Seems like Easy Life Exit ingredient is salicylic acid. A aspirin substance like compound found in the willow tree. A week is not enough time for it to work. You need to dose it for up to 14 days without a WC. A black out would be the best way to go IMO. It worked for me a few times. If the plants a hardy they can go without light that long easy. I get it sometime when the days start getting longer and the extra light seems to bring it on in my case. Your tank is near a light source plus lighting. The light treatment is a 3-4 day total black and no peaking to let light in. It's clean, safe for the environment and it works. There is also H2O2 but your'll need the correct amount.
Right now for its impossible to do a 3,4 day black out as i dont have enough materials to cover the entire tank. I do have plenty H2O2 3% and 6% but i have a lot of Vals in the background that dont like it. I have had some cyano in my older tanks but it dissapeared on its own. I hope it will dissapear after the ATS gets matured. I will do a big water change 1 day before the fishes arrive. Will it be toxic for them if it starts growing while the fishes are in the tank?Quote:
Originally Posted by bluelagoon
The type of cynao that I get here is not that toxic, per say. It stinks. It does use up O2 in the dark(at night) and when it breaks down. But I have never heard of a case in a fish tank where it suffocated fish.
You're correct about the vals not liking H2O2. They also melt if you use liquid CO2 supplements like Excel.
This may not make any sense, however, I used to have diatom in my tank and I tried blacking it out and it always came back. I've been diatom free for about a year now. However, two weeks ago I took away the LED light in my sump and used it for my shrimp tank as it was stronger than the Aqueon bulbs. After 2 days, I noticed my main tank getting diatom again. I normally run my sump light for 6-8 hours each night as the main tank light is off. I also keep plants in my sump and I used to keep shrimps. I put the light back in last week and no more diatom in main tank.
does this make any sense? The filter socks captures all the feces/food and I replace the filter socks once a week, and not even the sump has diatom.
Cannot wait to see pictures of your new arrivals! grats on everything. The tank looks spectacular.
Yes, it makes sense if you put a dimmer light on. Diatoms quickly react to changeing light. It does not seem to grow well in bright lights; usually a higher form of algae will take it's place.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mando
The thing is that i managed to clean the substrate well enought that you dont see any of it left and will continue to do so during the w/c. I will start dosing the Easy Life Blue Exit after one week to let the fish settle. I would prefer not to use anything and let the tank mature on it's own... The only thing that worries me are the discus as i dont have any experience with them and i dont want to panic and add everything at once :bomb:Quote:
Originally Posted by bluelagoon
Thank you for your kind words. I strongly believe that the cyano will go away by itself as the tank matures and other algae will compete for it especially when the ATS will start to produce more. Today i was really happy to see the first green growth on the screen. yaaay :heart2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mando
Babies arrived !!! :balloon: :balloon: :balloon:
I checked the bags and everyone is alive. I added some aquarium water around their bags to help them adapt to the temperature and then i will open the bags and start adding water from the aquarium. I've set the overall temp to 27*C (80.6 F) as to what they recommend on their site and will slowly adjust to @ 29*C (84.2 F) in the following days. Is it ok to skip food for the first day?
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The best way to put new discus in the tank is to plop and drop after you bring them to temp in bags in the tank. Some folks will never open the bag and put water in it and wait to accliminate. Once the bag is opened the the outside air quickly makes the PH rise and ammonia toxic. You might get some ammonia burns doing the acclimation method with opened bags.
I see no reason why you can't feed the first day, They're hurry.