New 300 gallon bare bottom discus community tank in work

[MKD]

I spent all this day working on the design to calculate the size of the cuttings. I will start a post by tomorrow or after for sure.

Can you upload a picture of this "compartment" your talking about, in the pictures of your sump I can see only the drip trays as the first stage!

You said you want to make spray bar, But I didn't get the point of why you want to do this what happens if the water returns with a fast flow with BH? and won't that cancel the Herbie design?

Tell me about, that 's a fun part and things bouncing around in the head . Here are some pics, each tray has filter pad. Currently I am using spray bar, trying to spread out waste over tray 12x 20. As you know Herbie style has 1 of pipes which handles at least 70% of water. This creates high water current rushing thru sponge and it pushes waste thru sponge or damage just that spot really quick. It will help filter pad last longer.


2 drain pipes go thru the lid with 2 holes and there is a compartment underneath.




this is a compartment right under the lid and water level will up about 1-1/2".

And yes, one more thing, what is the length of the braces? besides the euro bracing are there any center bracing?

Mine is not Euro bracing, there are 2 openings 18x28" each. I am trying to keep heat in and water evaporation; Since, i do wc often and rather move 2 pieces lids then 1 huge lid. Big lid more likely will be bend and heavy.

[Argentum]

Tell me about, that 's a fun part and things bouncing around in the head . Here are some pics, each tray has filter pad.

I am really mentally exhausted bouncing through ideas and editing the design. I want to come up with a design that will look nice, not noisy, requires minimal maintenance, can be used initially as a grow out then get turned to a display, auto water changing, huge and after all of this is still not very expensive.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SsWkEUsZR-c/VHkQ1Ke5gLI/AAAAAAAAISw/j-9aPJivty0/w374-h664-no/20141128_161340.jpg[/IMG]

Your sump design is very creative, I really like it. I think I am going to copy your design, I might leave the first chamber with no sponge and increase it's depth, this way it can handle the flow better and diffuse the flow coming from the return. This will retain the Herbie design and solve the issue you mentioned. I will follow that with a layer of sponge and might end that with a small 5- 50 micron sock filter

What do you think?

[MKD]

IME, Don't think it's good idea for grow out. Grow out needs to fed BH and will clog 5-50 micro socks really quick (it could be a day depends on how much you feed). It also take so much the vertical/height space in the stand, that's why i chose tray. With my current set up, i still rinse to tray every day and min 3x wc per week.

How is your stand?

If you'll go with socks, I would like to suggest a tray right under sock so it can catch anything pass thru sock or in case sock get clog. And if you wont like it you can turn the tray space to Han's set up (check out his interview). Everyone has different schedule and taste, so try to fit your.

[Argentum]

IME, Don't think it's good idea for grow out. Grow out needs to fed BH and will clog 5-50 micro socks really quick (it could be a day depends on how much you feed). It also take so much the vertical/height space in the stand, that's why i chose tray. With my current set up, i still rinse to tray every day and min 3x wc per week.

How is your stand?

If you'll go with socks, I would like to suggest a tray right under sock so it can catch anything pass thru sock or in case sock get clog. And if you wont like it you can turn the tray space to Han's set up (check out his interview). Everyone has different schedule and taste, so try to fit your.

The stand is exactly like yours (The framework at least) with cupboards on both sides, the one on the right will be higher than the aquarium. The one on the left will be flush with the level of the aquarium. All plumbing will be from the inside (water draining from the right into the sump and returning from the left.

The background will be frosted with some sort of light effect.

I know the socks can clog fast so I am not going to use it until the grow out phase is over, but I want it's place to be included in the design. I am thinking that the mechanical filtration should go from higher pore size to lower, otherwise the first stage will catch everything and clog fast.

Regarding the vertical position below the socks, I plan to expand it only a bit horizontally and use this space as a small Refugium. I am thinking of the socks as a polishing stage more than as a filtration stage and if I include it, if it gets clogged the water will overflow into the next stage but will have already goth filtered through the sponges.

Another alternative I just thought of right now is using a one stage HMA filter with a 5 micron cartridge connected to a power head in the area below the trays and connect it's output to the media stage (which will be K1 media).

[Argentum]

One more thing about the stand, initially I designed it with 6 cross bars at the top and 3 at the bottom, but when I saw yours I removed those. I will cover the top of the stand with 1/2" Plywood sheet the rest will be 3/4" plywood sheets

[MKD]

You'll be fine if you won't use it as grow out. Just wc and monitor the filter to see how fast it build up and rinse it. You don't need HMA or k1. Just put in couple sponges, you'll have crystal clear water. Easy to maintain and not worry things fail.

Ps regard to stand: because my tank is 30" wide, i still have 3 cross bars on top every 2 feet to avoid it bow the bottom and hold the top frame better.

[Argentum]

Tony!

I am now almost complete with the build, however I am stuck at a certain point!

The center 2 x 4 leg which is screwed to the guide behind it which eventually have a cross bar 2 x 4 above it.

I already have the leg screwed to the guides which are screwed from below to the lower frame. but I have no idea now how am I going to screw any of them to the top frame!

I can place the cross bars over them and screw these to the top frame , but the only thing holding the leg to the top frame will be the weight of the top frame pushing against it and no screws or anything, i am not sure if that's what you have done?

[Argentum]

Here are pictures to make it more clear .... what exactly did I do wrong?

[MKD]

You can just screw it from front and back of top frame. Plus you will screw it the front and top plywood too.

Hope this helps

[MKD]

I can place the cross bars over them and screw these to the top frame , but the only thing holding the leg to the top frame will be the weight of the top frame pushing against it and no screws or anything, i am not sure if that's what you have done?

you will screw it to front and back plywoods.

[Argentum]

I think you got me wrong, or I am still no getting it :
I explained it over the picture below

[MKD]

I crewed it to front and back plywood. other option is metal bracket. You'll be fine my way cause when tank sits on it most weight at corners.

[Argentum]

Thanks Tony, this means I am done with the frame. I am done for today as well maybe tommorow I will start with the plywood.

However something different I realised is you have spacing between the two center bracing, are they 2 x 4 ? what about what they are sitting on is it 2 x 8 or two 2 x 4's ?

[MKD]

they're sitting on 2x (2x4"). The reason i did that because I want more support for 2 front doors (at the end, i changed to 1 fold door). Also the top plywood was short couple inches so I cut it in half so i could flat both ends

[Argentum]

What I did is only one 2 x 4 in the center ... do you think the structure will hold this way?