$20.00 Controller-how to wiring (easy)

[nc0gnet0]

I would assume you could turn the heater all the way up since the controller is going to shut is off at the desired temp.

Hey Rick,
Have you found that the controller is fairly accurate out of the box or have you had to calibrate them? I just completed my first two and the temp the controller shows is a little low compared to my infrared thermometer. Guess my thermometer could be off but wanted to find out what you have seen with yours.

I honestly don't know how to answer this, I have never found the infrared thermometers to be all that accurate myself, but I have only used a few to date, and the ones I used would measure up to 500 degrees +.That's not to say that the controllers could'nt use a calibration out of the box either. I have always struggled at what kind of thermometer one should use to get a precise reading, lately I have been using a digital oral thermometer.

[Larry Bugg]

That helps. I will try digital oral and compare it to the controller and the infrared.

[Larry Bugg]

I used the thermometer on my TDS meter and it was the same as my infrared so I calibrated the controller to that temp. Each one showed from .6 to 1.0 Celsius higher than my thermometers. Will still check with a oral digital. Everything about these controller is easy, from set up to calibration.

[Jbell]

I got my controller off amazon Docooler 10A 110V Digital Temperature Controller Thermocouple -58~194. $14. Wiring was just a little different but I have already ordered more for all my tanks I love the simplicity and controllability of it. Thanks so much for post this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rickztahone]

Hey Ricky, does the unit come with a probe? I didn't see pics of the probe in the OP and was just wondering. I am going to grab one of these and use it on my next build. It will be a 75g with a 40g sump (only partially filled). I was thinking of grabbing two 250w heaters, rather than one 300w one, possibly a Jager heater since Jehmco has them at $22 currently. Thoughts?

Additionally, I'm thinking of placing it in the stand since everything is going to be in the sump anyways, should I worry about the exposed backing in the tank stand at all? I don't see why it wouldn't be fine, but just asking here as I do not know much about electrical work.

[nc0gnet0]

Probe is right there. And that is what I have done in cabinet mounts, I just wrap the wires up in electrical tape for a little splash protection.......

[rickztahone]

oh cool. I thought that was part of the extension cord, lol. When you mention you can get the spare wire bits from the electrical cord, any will do so long as they are the same gauge correct?

[discussmith]

It's a little hard to tell from the pics in the sticky but I would recommend if using 2 wire cords you should use a polarized cord end. Even though it works in both directions plugging in reverse will make the controller switch the neutral connection as opposed to switching the in coming hot feed. If you have a three wire cord with a ground connection this will only come in to play if you have a 2 wire heater that is not polarized.

[nc0gnet0]

Never seen a heater with a three pronged plug yet. I know what your saying about the polarized end, but why would it make a difference?

[nc0gnet0]

oh cool. I thought that was part of the extension cord, lol. When you mention you can get the spare wire bits from the electrical cord, any will do so long as they are the same gauge correct?

as long as there are of sufficient gauge would be more correct.

[rickztahone]

Ok Rick. Bought the controller and bought 2 heaters. Do I simply buy an extension cord that has 2 female plugs and plug the heaters in to that? Please advise.

Additionally, on Amazon, I was only able to find 16gauge wire that had 2 prongs, all others had a ground prong as well. Can I use 16 gauge to run 2 200w heaters?

[nc0gnet0]

16 gauge should suffice for that application.

[rickztahone]

16 gauge should suffice for that application.

Thank you sir.

[rickztahone]

I went ahead and order some of these to get rid of the dongle-After I install two (so I can connect two heaters if I choose) I will no longer need the dongle.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281513383413...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

These will be flush mounted to the back of the hood.

Rick, I really am sorry to keep pestering you, but I really do not know much about electrical work and would love to not mess anything up. You seem very knowledgeable on the subject so I hope you don't mind me reaching out and hopefully others can benefit from the questions as well. Above, you mentioned that you bought the receptacles to make a more professional look. I am interested in purchasing a project box, and would love to add some of these receptacles HERE. How would I go about actually wiring each one of these in accordance to your tutorial? I'm assuming the linked item can be flush mounted to the project box?

[nc0gnet0]

You would hook the white and black wires up just like you hook the female plug side of the cord in picture 10. Aquarium heaters seldom have ground wires (green) and the controller is a plastic case, so the ground wire is not needed. If you have used a three wire plug to the controller you would tie the green wires together. If you are only using a two wire conductor to power your controller (this is what I used) just snip the green wire on that plug you pictured..