Lets see those sumps

[Loosir]

Twistofer,
You're right about volume, but the Specific Gravity (SG) is a non issue.
No salt ie. no SG, means the bubbles of a protein skimmer wont cause Ammonia or nitrates (not sure which) to foam at the surface and thus nothing to skim. Foam Refractionators will break up the proteins via trauma but they're 4x the size of a skimmer, doable but not common. This is why water changes are huge, they keep the Nitrate low, as well as TDS, trace elements are kept high and other intangibles like the Discus's preference for that "fresh mountain due aroma" in the water.
The sump IMO is basically the biggest filter available, think of it as housing your live rock under the tank, as FW has only Poret (foam), K1 (floating ceramic-esk media) or other filter media to use as a bacteria host they way SW uses live rock.

Since you're planning a planted tank (ie. refuge) the need for n03 is greater and you have moved past my pay grade.

Fresh water, fertilizers + Co2 seems to be the way 80% of discus keepers make it happen. I'll pass you on to the more knowledgeable one's. Read everything from Paul, avatar PCSB23.
Good luck

[rickztahone]

I'm a newbie to this forum and Discus keeping, so please forgive my ignorance/stupidity.

I have 20 yrs with reef keeping/salt water. My understanding was that a sump not only increased the total volume to dilute waste and equalize the specific gravity, but also to remove nutrients which would otherwise create algae, etc problems. Essentially SW is "nutrient free" as compared with FW. With fresh water and discus systems, water quality is high, but there is need for a nutrient rich system to feed your planted aquarium.

Are those of you running a sump with protein skimmer bare-bottom tanks, where the excess nutrient load causes poorer water quality?

I am in the planning stages of a 125 gal planted discus tank, after dismantling my reef system (and cleaning/sterilizing it). In my reef system NO3 was kept at zero. My understanding is that I want around 3-5 NO3 in my new set-up. Thanks

Have you kept discus and/or planted tanks in the past? SW tanks require a high level of attention so I am sure you wouldn't have a problem raising discus so long as you follow some of the advice on this forum. As far as planted tanks go though, that is an entirely different beast and I would encourage you to read up heavily on it. It is very easy for a planted tank to become unbalanced and you lose a battle real quick in a planted tank, especially in a HO planted tank.

Sumps in FW tanks are helpful for:
-more volume
-hide equipment
-more media=more BB

[Ken]

From a reefing back ground also, generally it is recommended to master the planted portion high tech vs. low tech, before going on to Discus. In the lighted planted setup you will be limiting light and providing a carbon source for the plants, Co2, dosing, etc.

For the Discus, most will recommend the largest fish you can afford, or at least 4.5”. As for sumps I use mine the same as in a reef setup to hide equipment and nutrient export.

For me (180g+sump)water changes are a Minimum of 80% once a week sometimes more depending on how the Discus look and act.

Then you will have to decide of what you are going to feed your fish, some methods are dirtier than others which effects water changes.

[Twistofer]

"Tanks" for the clarification. Since I'm still in the planning stage, I'll look into the option to keep my sump. Discus will only be added when the tank is up and running for 3-6 months. PS. Are fresh water shrimp OK with discus?

[rickztahone]

"Tanks" for the clarification. Since I'm still in the planning stage, I'll look into the option to keep my sump. Discus will only be added when the tank is up and running for 3-6 months. PS. Are fresh water shrimp OK with discus?

They are excellent with discus because discus LOVE to eat shrimp . Seriously though, the only shrimp I have had success with discus is ghost shrimp, and that is because they were so large. I have kept RCS but because I had a colony of hundreds upon hundreds and I kept dumping some in with the discus to thin out the herd. They eventually end up in filters and/or discus stomach.

[stpierre]

IMG_20150324_210025_017.jpgIMG_20150324_210100_589.jpgIMG_20150324_210042_651.jpg Tide pool 200 all of the drawers are filled with bio balls except for the top one has a filter. A corner overflow. looking for a way to add a sock with no luck.

[rickztahone]

Good looking sump. Was it DIY?

[stpierre]

Good looking sump. Was it DIY?

No look up (Tide pool sump). Very happy with it.

[stpierre]

Lets see if I can get a little more traffic here on my possible sump setup. I am worried that C & D baffles may be incorrectly oriented. Please let me know if this design would work or not. I am planning on putting ceramic media in panty hose in the middle chamber.

Attachment 85352
Attachment 85354

Edit: I didn't draw it in, but in the side view shot, right in the middle of B baffle and B-2 Baffle, there will be a black sponge there as well.

Looks good love the 2 socks! do you think you're going to have enough media? But then again I've noticed the discuss forum does a ton of water changes. I have been only doing 30 gal a week for a 90 gal.

[rickztahone]

Looks good love the 2 socks! do you think you're going to have enough media? But then again I've noticed the discuss forum does a ton of water changes. I have been only doing 30 gal a week for a 90 gal.

Yeah hopefully the 2 socks will do a fine job. I will be installing a center 1" lift pvc tube just in case they ever get blocked up for some reason as a refief. I believe I should have plenty of room for media. I am planning on doing ceramic media but now I am also thinking I could do poret foam but horizontally and have the media bags under that. It would be a similar setup as a canister filter, just on a much larger scale.

With frequent WC's (I typically do a 100% WC a day) I do not plan on BB being a huge concern.

[Mgus]

I'm planning on a pump in he 3-400 gph range. The overflows I was looking at on kensfish.com go from 300 to 800 gph rating the price differance is only a few dollars would I be better off with the 800

[rickztahone]

I'm planning on a pump in he 3-400 gph range. The overflows I was looking at on kensfish.com go from 300 to 800 gph rating the price differance is only a few dollars would I be better off with the 800

It really depends what your end game is. If you do not need the larger turn over, then I would suggest going with the lower overflow. However, you must keep in mind that if you get a pump in the 3-400 range, you will not be at that range if that stat is at static head loss and depending on how many elbows and such you have through out your system.

[Mgus]

Ok thanks Ricardo. I'm going to be pumping the water through a uv I'll probably lose a bit of flow I was looking at a magflo 350. That should be under 300 Thanks for the info. How's your sump coming along?

[rickztahone]

Ok thanks Ricardo. I'm going to be pumping the water through a uv I'll probably lose a bit of flow I was looking at a magflo 350. That should be under 300 Thanks for the info. How's your sump coming along?

I'm at a screeching hault right now. I have have to sell a lot of tanks/equipment to get this project started and I haven't got around to it. Also, this time of year I am always low on hobby funds because of so many bday parties for my kids. I did buy all the bulkheads I needed though, and although the pump I am getting, the Waveline DC 4000 pump is currently backstocked (and has been for over 2 months), I already paid for it and am only waiting for the order to fulfill. Hopefully that happens some time soon. Other than that, I need plumping parts and acrylic for C2C and baffles

[zchauvin]

Not sure if it was mentioned but if looking for ideas on FW sumps monsterfishkeepers have tons of sump ideas that lots of the members use for Arowana and the such.