Best algy eaters.

[a.person61]

So I have a algy problem and was wondering what's the best fish or snail to help. I have live plants so nothing that will harm them, ph is around 7.5 to 7.8 tank is still cycling so there is a bit of animoina, 140 gallon tankmates are 2 adult angles 4 rams 4 corys 4 gouramis and a army of tetras. I need something hardy as I'm not going to be home to often the temp is set to 27.
thanks for the help!

[Len]

Others may reply differently, but instead of adding a particular algae eater, I'd suggest getting the tank parameters in check, make sure your nutrients are balanced, ensure proper lighting. This should help eliminate the algae to begin with instead of managing it.

[jmf3460]

while I am a fan of ancistrus species algae eaters. others will disagree because some ancistrus can turn on the discus and begin feeding off their slime coats. I have tons of nerite snails in all my tanks. they can handle the temps, they are cheap and they cannot bread in fresh water so you don't have to worry about the overpopulating the tank.

[a.person61]

while I am a fan of ancistrus species algae eaters. others will disagree because some ancistrus can turn on the discus and begin feeding off their slime coats. I have tons of nerite snails in all my tanks. they can handle the temps, they are cheap and they cannot bread in fresh water so you don't have to worry about the overpopulating the tank.

The nerite snail sounds great. I had mystery snails about a year ago and they pooped everywhere, will nerite snails do the same? Thanks

[a.person61]

Others may reply differently, but instead of adding a particular algae eater, I'd suggest getting the tank parameters in check, make sure your nutrients are balanced, ensure proper lighting. This should help eliminate the algae to begin with instead of managing it.

I will do a water change today, add a timer for the lights and hopefully the tank is finnished cycling. How do I check the nutrients I only have a ph animoina nitrite and nitrate test kit. Thanks

[Len]

once the tank is finished cycling you'll want to check that the nitrates are within reason for a planted tank. Also you may want to consider checking iron and phosphate. When I mentioned proper lighting, I meant the duration of light, but that the proper spectrum which is just as important.

[a.person61]

once the tank is finished cycling you'll want to check that the nitrates are within reason for a planted tank. Also you may want to consider checking iron and phosphate. When I mentioned proper lighting, I meant the duration of light, but that the proper spectrum which is just as important.

Just tested animoina nitrite and nitrates are all 0... yes I did test correctly. How do I check iron and phosphate? Is there a test kit for them or? The light will get 10 hours a day as that works for my other 2 tanks the lighting is not the brightest about medium but it gets some natural light aswell.

[Len]

There are test kits for iron and phosphate as well. It isn't only about how bright the light looks, but rather the colour spectrum. Too much in the blue spectrum will cause algae and the plants will grow more spindly. Plants require more in the red. The bulbs will have the spectrum written on them. A quick google will help you find more detailed information regarding this but in general aim for 5000k - 6000k if memory serves me. In terms of nutrients a general guideline is:

Nitrates 10-20 ppm
Iron 0.1-1.0 ppm
Phosphates 1-2 ppm
Potassium 10-20 ppm

[a.person61]

There are test kits for iron and phosphate as well. It isn't only about how bright the light looks, but rather the colour spectrum. Too much in the blue spectrum will cause algae and the plants will grow more spindly. Plants require more in the red. The bulbs will have the spectrum written on them. A quick google will help you find more detailed information regarding this but in general aim for 5000k - 6000k if memory serves me. In terms of nutrients a general guideline is:

Nitrates 10-20 ppm
Iron 0.1-1.0 ppm
Phosphates 1-2 ppm
Potassium 10-20 ppm

I'm luckey that 1 of the 3 lights that came with the tank is red the other 2 are just led

[Len]

I don't seem to be explaining light very well. You can't just look at it and go by what your eye thinks it looks like. Each bulb has a colour spectrum or temperature and will be written in K (kelvin). Most likely the LED lights that came with the tank are not suited for plants. I'm not sure how important the plants are to you, but maybe some research on lighting in a planted tank would be your best option if the plants are an important feature to you.

[a.person61]

I don't seem to be explaining light very well. You can't just look at it and go by what your eye thinks it looks like. Each bulb has a colour spectrum or temperature and will be written in K (kelvin). Most likely the LED lights that came with the tank are not suited for plants. I'm not sure how important the plants are to you, but maybe some research on lighting in a planted tank would be your best option if the plants are an important feature to you.

They are since it's a planted tank but all it is is anubis and java fern both hardy plants. I'll ask my lfs what the lights are I have trouble with the aquaone website.

[jmf3460]

nerite snails dont create a huge bioload of poop but they do lay eggs . you will have little tiny white dots on your wood and intake tubes. I don't mind them, my dwarf acara species even pick at them and eat them

[bluelagoon]

Some algae is healthy,so to speak.Rubber nose plecos do an excellent job in keeping algae in check.The SAE is another great algae eater,which eats all types of algae,even hair algae.I keep then and they don't seem to harass or go after the slim coat as much as folks seem to think..After they get 3" or so I remove them and get smaller ones.The smaller guys do a good job whereas the older SAE's get lazy and wait for hand outs.Bristle nose pleco are also good with discus.

[jmf3460]

OP,

Allow me to elaborate on my earlier posts. Nerite snails are a type of fresh water snail that in the wild lay their eggs in salt water. They are a good addition to a freshwater tank because you do not have to worry about baby snails overpopulating and taking over your tank. This is often the case with other types of snails. While a nerite requires salt water for the eggs to hatch, this does not stop them from laying eggs all over the place. Many people find the nerite eggs to be a nuisance and an eye sore but it is my experience that some fish will eat the unfertilized eggs, also the white polka dots on my wood does not bother me.

Another option for you is the ancistrus pleco (otherwise known as the bristlenose pleco.) I myself own several types of ancistrus plecos. I have three albino ancistrus, a calico ancistrus, a super red ancistrus and one really rare ancistrus rio Tocantins. A quick google search on these names will lend you all types of pictures and information regarding each individual species. as a whole, the genus ancistrus stays small and is therefore a good option for a discus tank or a small tank. You can buy common bristlenose or albino bristlenosed pleco's at most local pet stores. the more rare ones like the super reds, green dragons and calicos are found online or through breeders. Ancistrus is known for staying small and for its bristles on the noses of the fish, longer and more dominant bristles will be seen among the males.

In my opinion, both the ancistrus (bristlenose) and the nerite snail are good options for algae control. I am not a fan of the SAE because once they get big, they stop eating algae and just eat fish food like a regular fish. I hope this helps and good luck.

[5ZVP]

I agree with Len. That is the best way to keep algae under control. I never found algae eaters to be all that effective in removing algae.