AquaticSuppliers.com     Cafepress Store

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 37

Thread: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

  1. #1
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    633

    Default What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    Many people who are new to keeping discus assume that since the water parameters (Ph, TDS, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate) are all normal, and the water appears crystal clear, they make the mistake of thinking that the water is healthy. It may be for some other types of fish, but not discus unless the water is also biologically clean. How to keep the water biologically clean, and why this is critical for healthy discus is the purpose of this post.

    Assuming that the tank has a well established bio-filter (which maintains ammonia, and nitrite levels at zero), the next most important water quality consideration is bioload and biomass resulting from food fed to the fish. Food contains organic compounds that are not toxic to the fish, however two undesirable affects result. First, there are bacteria that feed on the organic compounds and this results in other compounds that are toxic. This process is called decomposition and is very common in nature as evident by the foul smell of a dead animal or decaying vegetation. Second, pathogens (bacteria, viruses, and parasites) feed on the organic compounds and this permits them to multiply greatly. Note that there are many different types of bacteria in the tank, some are beneficial and some are not.

    The recommendations I give in this post are mine alone. In some instances there is considerable differences on the SD Forum as to what these recommendations should be.

    What Is Bioload and Biomass and How To Control Them

    Bioload and biomass are affected greatly by the type of food and how it is fed to the fish. Food such as beef heart mix and unrinsed blood worms (and others) contribute more organic compounds than freeze dried or flake foods. When feeding the fish, do not overfeed and feed them more often with a little at a time, so that more of the food is actually eaten by the fish.

    Bioload and biomass both result from food placed in the tank. The fish eat a portion of the food and the remaining part either falls to the bottom of the tank, or becomes suspended or dissolved in the water column. The portion eaten by the fish is partly decomposed by the digestive tract of the fish and is eliminited as feces. The bioload/biomass exists in several forms: uneaten food and feces, suspended/dissolved organic material in the water column, food and feces existing in the substrate, and food that collects on all surfaces in the tank. These are controlled by water changes or by syphoning material from the tank bottom.

    Uneaten Food and Feces-- Feces contains food that is not completely decomposed and this usually collects with uneaten food on the bottom of the tank. If this material is neglected, it will collect into a very large biomass which will permit pathogens to multiply greatly as they feed on it. As further decomposition takes place, other undesirable compounds will be produced, and these will remain at the bottom or become suspended in the water column. The fish will ingest some of these pathogens when they feed at the bottom. Control of this is accomplished with tank maintenance by syphoning the bottom and this should be done on a regular basis. For adult discus, my recommendation is no less than twice a week. Juveniles require more frequent cleaning.

    Suspended or Dissolved Organic Compounds-- These organic compounds exist in the water column as bioload. They originate from uneaten food and feces containing partially decomposed food, which is suspended or dissolved in the water column. Some of these organic compounds decompose in the water column. Water circulation transports this bioload to the substrate (it one exists) and to all other surfaces with in the tank including the walls, bottom, and anything else in the tank. Control of these organic compounds in the water column is accomplished with water exchange. My recommendation is not less than 30% daily for adults and greater amounts for juveniles.

    Gravel or Sand Substrate-- Uneaten food and feces becomes trapped in gravel and this can accumulate into a huge biomass, even if one attempts to clean it regularly. Thats because much of the organic material will stick to the gravel thus making it impossible to remove it without also removing the gravel. Aslo, water circulation can be blocked in the gravel thus depriving the flow of oxygen which will stop the process of decomposition and this can result in even bigger problems. Thus my recommendation is to avoid gravel substrate completely. Sand is a better substrate than gravel because feces and food are less likely to become trapped. However the sand at the top still collects a biomass because food suspended in the water column will stick to the sand particles at the top and thus collect to form a biomass. This biomass will remain in the tank unless the sand is also removed. For these reasons, my recommendation is to go with a bare bottom tank, especially for anyone just beginning. A bare bottom tank is not only much cleaner, but also much easier to clean.

    Food Collecting on All Surfaces in the Tank-- Another form of biomass occurs when suspended organic material in the water column collects on everything in the tank including walls, bottom, decorative items (artificial plants, rocks, etc..) and everything else in the tank. This form of biomass is different than gravel substrate because water circulation is available to allow the organic material to decompose. Control of this biomass is accomplished by removing the decorative items and cleaning them outside the tank, and then wiping the sides and bottom of the tank clean. This loosens the biomass and places it in suspension where water changes remove it from the tank. A pretty good test for assessing this biomass on decorative items is what I call the "sniff" test. Remove the item from the tank and place it close to the nose, a biomass will exhibit a foul odor. This test can be used as a pretty good indication of how often it should be cleaned. My recommendation for cleaning decorative items is to place them in a bucket and add a 8 to 1 mixture of water and hydrogen peroxide (3%). Hydrogen peroxide can be purchased in the Wal-mart pharmacy for under $1 per quart. It is non toxic and can be rinsed off after letting it set overnight in the bucket. Does a wonderful job of removing algae. My recommendation is to clean this form of biomass not less ten days for adult discus, and more often for juveniles.

    Why Discus Require Biologically Clean Water

    Many of the strains of discus available today have evolved in water with a low Ph for thousands of years. As such their immune systems have adapted to the quantity and types of pathogens (bacteria, viruses, and parasites) that are common to their native habitat. It turns out that water with higher Ph has not only many more pathogens, but also a different type. Thus the fish are much more sensitive to attack from unfamiliar pathogens. Young discus are especially vulnerable because the immune system adapts somewhat as they age. This is a very serious problem to the extent that many discus keepers recommend that fish from different suppliers should not be mixed due to the possibility that bacteria from one supplier will be harmful to discus from a different supplier, even though they are not harmful to the first.

    Another important consideration results because discus are quite sensitive and become easily stressed. Stress can be caused by changes in water parameters (Ph, TDS, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate), temperature, lighting, motion outside the tank, pecking order, and other factors. Water that is not biologically clean also causes stress. In fact, whenever I notice that my fish are not acting normal, the first thing I do is to suspect something wrong with the water and immediately make a water change. The amount of aggression occurring between the fish can also be a sign of stress. My experience has shown that when I get all of the tank conditions correct and stabilized, that the aggression due to the pecking order is greatly reduced. When discus become stressed, they often become lethargic and refuse to eat. When this happens, their immune system becomes weakened and they are much more subject to attack from pathogens.

  2. #2
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    winnipeg
    Posts
    221
    Real Name
    sue

    Default Re: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    wow! I would like to say as a newbie that this is very informative!

  3. #3
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    3
    Real Name
    Jenn B.

    Default Re: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    This is extremely informative to the beginner. This takes on another level of consideration for my tank. It makes me wonder if I've been doing this all wrong. I am curious about what some of the other seasoned hobbyists think of this post.

  4. #4
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    Thanks a lot for all the information that makes me understand better why that extreme water concern with discus and not with Frontosas and Tropheus just to mention some.
    But I would like to ask the following. There are very good filtration this days like canisters filters or in my case I use sumps with plenty of mechanical filtartion. Based on what I read from you, even with some very good mechanical filtration and very diligent feeding and cleaning, this bioload/biomass has to be eliminated with water changes, right?

    Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
    Rodrigo.

  5. #5
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    633

    Default Re: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    Quote Originally Posted by rabascal View Post
    Thanks a lot for all the information that makes me understand better why that extreme water concern with discus and not with Frontosas and Tropheus just to mention some.
    But I would like to ask the following. There are very good filtration this days like canisters filters or in my case I use sumps with plenty of mechanical filtartion. Based on what I read from you, even with some very good mechanical filtration and very diligent feeding and cleaning, this bioload/biomass has to be eliminated with water changes, right?

    Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
    Rodrigo.
    The bottom line is that large water changes are necessary, especially for younger fish since the immune system is not as well developed. In my case, I have adult fish (6" +) and my water exchange is 30% daily. Tank cleaning and maintenance is also necessary.

    My filtration system:

    http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showth...tration-System

    The use of Purigen in a reactor improves water quality even more, but I would not recommend reducing water change when using it.

    Hope this is useful for you.

    Paul
    Last edited by afriend; 09-03-2015 at 07:52 PM.

  6. #6
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    11
    Real Name
    Alan

    Default Re: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    Recently set up a 225 discus aquarium, with a large wet/dry filter and refugium. My water specs are:
    Nitrates: 0
    Nitrites: 0
    Ammonia: 0
    Do I still have to make water changes with these readings? Thanks.

  7. #7
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    633

    Default Re: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    Quote Originally Posted by plantman3 View Post
    Recently set up a 225 discus aquarium, with a large wet/dry filter and refugium. My water specs are:
    Nitrates: 0
    Nitrites: 0
    Ammonia: 0
    Do I still have to make water changes with these readings? Thanks.
    plantman3,

    Somehow you missed the point of my post:

    Many people who are new to keeping discus assume that since the water parameters (Ph, TDS, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate) are all normal, and the water appears crystal clear, they make the mistake of thinking that the water is healthy. It may be for some other types of fish, but not discus unless the water is also biologically clean. How to keep the water biologically clean, and why this is critical for healthy discus is the purpose of this post.

    Assuming that the tank has a well established bio-filter (which maintains ammonia, and nitrite levels at zero), the next most important water quality consideration is bioload and biomass resulting from food fed to the fish. Food contains organic compounds that are not toxic to the fish, however two undesirable affects result. First, there are bacteria that feed on the organic compounds and this results in other compounds that are toxic. This process is called decomposition and is very common in nature as evident by the foul smell of a dead animal or decaying vegetation. Second, pathogens (bacteria, viruses, and parasites) feed on the organic compounds and this permits them to multiply greatly. Note that there are many different types of bacteria in the tank, some are beneficial and some are not.
    Please don't make the same mistake I made several years ago thinking that I could get by with small water changes. It just simply does not work this way with discus.

    Paul

  8. #8
    MVP Oct.2015 discuspaul's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Surrey, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    3,871

    Default Re: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    Paul, this is an excellent contribution to the Stickies in the Discus Basis for Beginners Section ! Well done.

    I believe the word 'bio-load' is usually considered, and used, by many to indicate solely the level of fish or invertebrates in an aquarium, as opposed to the entire family of living things, including pathogens and bacteria of all types, etc.

    As such, it may not be the proper wording ( i.e. a misnomer) to simply indicate the number & size of tank 'animals' for purposes of indicating &/or calculating a proper ratio of fishes to be kept within a given tank's water volume.

    Perhaps that indicator should be more appropriately referred to as the 'fauna-load', or something similar ?

  9. #9
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    633

    Default Re: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    Paul,

    Yea, after thinking about it and looking up the terms, I generally agree with what your getting at. Hopefully it's not too confusing.

    Thanks for your kind remarks.

    Paul

  10. #10
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    B'ham, Alabama
    Posts
    478

    Default Re: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    I liked it the way afriend had it. I knew what he meant. jmo

    Ron

  11. #11
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    633

    Default Re: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    Quote Originally Posted by alron2 View Post
    I liked it the way afriend had it. I knew what he meant. jmo

    Ron
    Ron,

    Glad you understood what I was driving at. Basically I took the liberty to define the terms bioload and biomass as follows: biomass refers to organic material that collects and accumulates into a mass until it is cleaned. For example the substrate, the bottom of the tank, or on the decorative items.

    In general biomass plays a more significant role because this is where the majority of pathogens multiply and most of the decomposition takes place (producing other compounds that are toxic.) Biomass remains in place until it is removed during tank maintenance.

    Bioload refers to the organic material suspended or dissolved in the water column and is removed during water changes.

    Hope this helps and that I didn't confuse the issue by redefining the terms.

    Paul

  12. #12
    MVP Oct.2015 discuspaul's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Surrey, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    3,871

    Default Re: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    Quote Originally Posted by alron2 View Post
    I liked it the way afriend had it. I knew what he meant. jmo

    Ron
    Perhaps I was misunderstood as to my meaning.
    I wasn't suggesting that afriend's (Paul's) name for his commentary (he called BioLoad or BioMass) be changed, I was suggesting that perhaps the word 'bio-load' was not a proper wording to be used to describe only the community of fish & invertebrates one refers to when speaking only of the number of 'animals' that should be kept or not kept in a given volume of water, which appears to be a commonly applied nomenclature for that situation.

  13. #13
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Sterling VA
    Posts
    67
    Real Name
    Tony

    Default Re: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    Great read as others have said, helped make up my mind to go with bare bottom tank. I followed the link to afriend (Paul's) filter pictures and I have serious case of filter envy now holly cow what a set up. Paul if you read this what would you say to putting a FluvalFX6 on my 75 gallon tank?

  14. #14
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    633

    Default Re: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony13 View Post
    Great read as others have said, helped make up my mind to go with bare bottom tank. I followed the link to afriend (Paul's) filter pictures and I have serious case of filter envy now holly cow what a set up. Paul if you read this what would you say to putting a FluvalFX6 on my 75 gallon tank?
    Your decision to go with a bare bottom tank is a wise choice. After a year or so, then you can experiment with a sand substrate. Knowing the importance of filtration is also wise.

    I don't know what your goals are, so I'm going to assume that you are intending to set up a filtration system similar to mine. Let me reiterate what I stated previously in the link that you are referring to. In order to duplicate the results that I have achieved, attention to detail is extremely important, and this means that you must have all of the elements accounted for including:

    mechanical filtration
    tank circulation
    purigen reactor
    water exchange
    biological filtration
    water TDS

    Not only must all of these elements be present, but they must be sized and implemented properly. I would strongly recommend that you thoroughly investigate and plan this out ahead of time before proceeding. This system is not cheap or easy to mechanize, but the results are truly spectacular. The filtration system will automatically remove feces, eliminate algae and biomass, and remain pristine clean for a minimum of one month without any tank maintenance.

    Here are my thoughts about the Fluval FX6:

    Have never seen or used it, so my evaluation is based only on looking at the specs.

    Pros: good flow rate, like the built in valves & pressure seal & pump & 10 ft head pressure. Extremely good reviews including how quiet it operates and the water change feature.

    Cons: Only 325 sq in of filter area. You will need at least 504 sq in for a 75 gal tank with 7 adult discus. Probably does not filter to 25 micron level. You will need to have a separate purigen reactor.

    Will be glad to assist you and answer questions if you go ahead with this project.

    Paul
    Last edited by afriend; 09-16-2015 at 10:35 AM.

  15. #15
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Sterling VA
    Posts
    67
    Real Name
    Tony

    Default Re: What Are Bioload and Biomass and Why They Are Important

    Thanks Paul, currently i am in a high rise condo but planning on getting into a real house soon as my alimony is over in feb then i can set up a fish room, for now just something to tinker with so i am hoping to get 10 babies and grow them out and learn all the tricks of the hobby.So i have picked out my tank already the combo from marineland at petsmart for 399 I am hoping to pick it up next weekend and get the cycle started, I am still doing a little reading on the canister filters. One other issue is I want different colored fish but cant seem to get all the colors from one place and then I would have the issue of mixing fish from different breeders or dealers which is not a good thing as i have red here.
    Tony

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Cafepress