Ozone in a Planted Discus Tank

[BlazeMalta]

Hi Guys and Gals,

I am not going to be specific about their product names not to break the forum rules (Admin -if I do, just delete this post and excuse me).

I have a 240 Litre planted Discus tank with no water quality problems as far as I know. I have a pressurized Co2 system which I set to dose the aquarium in a very minimum way. Currently there are 4 sub adult Discus, and I am planning to get 1 or 2 more.

Reading past posts I see how important feeding Beefheart is. In fact I do. Or because of one of my Discus I am forced too since it does not except granules. Even if or when it does start to except granules I will still feed beef heart but less often.

Anyway here is the question:

When I surf the net I am always coming across these Ozone Generators (without mentioning their names). There is a round steal plate you put in the aquarium, and a controller that hangs on the outside of the aquarium. There is a Chinese version that should prevent algae or fish disease and another version that has a brand name that is twice the price.

Since I feed BH in a planted tank I am considering getting one, but...

Is the Ozone dangerous to humans... My tank is in my living room?
Are they safe for the fish?
Prevent Algae?
Will it help prevent Discus Flukes if introduced by mistake?
And your overall opinions pls???

Regards to all,
-Kevin.

[rickztahone]

Hello Kevin and welcome to SimplyDiscus. Ozone is one thing I am honestly not familiar with. However, I will say that what you are saying it can do sounds somewhat far-fetched.

I can save you some time by telling you that the absolute easiest and cheapest way to keep your tank clean after a BH feeding, is water changes. This of course would mess with your EI (if you currently dry fert dose) weekly dosing cycle and co2.

This is one of the main reasons why you do not often see a fully planted tank w/ full co2 with discus in it. It is a difficult balance but one that can be done if you have a lot of experience. The alternatives are relatively straight forward. Either get adult discus that DON'T require heavy BH feedings, or grow out some juveniles in a bare bottom tank and transfer them over when they are adults.

[DJW]

It is hard to find information on the use of ozone in freshwater. I have looked into it as a way to sterilize water because I have access to good river water and would like to use it. As for ozone in a freshwater aquarium... I decided that it was not a good idea, but sorry I can't remember why I reached that conclusion.

Randy Holmes Farley has written a very detailed set of articles on ozone specifically for saltwater, which have plenty of information:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-05/rhf/index.php

[BlazeMalta]

Hello Kevin and welcome to SimplyDiscus. Ozone is one thing I am honestly not familiar with. However, I will say that what you are saying it can do sounds somewhat far-fetched.

I can save you some time by telling you that the absolute easiest and cheapest way to keep your tank clean after a BH feeding, is water changes. This of course would mess with your EI (if you currently dry fert dose) weekly dosing cycle and co2.

This is one of the main reasons why you do not often see a fully planted tank w/ full co2 with discus in it. It is a difficult balance but one that can be done if you have a lot of experience. The alternatives are relatively straight forward. Either get adult discus that DON'T require heavy BH feedings, or grow out some juveniles in a bare bottom tank and transfer them over when they are adults.

Thanks so much. Yes I have learned that from my years of experience.. its either one or the other, or a lot of sacrifices and hard work. I used to think that plants actually make the water better with less ammonia and nitrites for the Discus. Man was I wrong.

Although in the natural habitat of Discus there are not a lot of plants that's the way I prefer to display them. I do a water change on Saturday, and another one on Wednesday. The Saturday water change with a gravel vacuum to remove some of the mulm. I feed my Discus granules twice a day, and their last feed is BH using tongs. I can assure you that almost none of it makes it to the gravel cos they do not give it a chance.

There is one thing I have to change though.. as you mentioned.. to never buy small specimens that require a lot of feeding and BH. Thats what I have always done. Also it will be better if I witness the fish taking dried food before I take it so I can cut BH feeding to 3 times a week.

So re the Ozone thingy 'its to good to be true' thought so

[BlazeMalta]

It is hard to find information on the use of ozone in freshwater. I have looked into it as a way to sterilize water because I have access to good river water and would like to use it. As for ozone in a freshwater aquarium... I decided that it was not a good idea, but sorry I can't remember why I reached that conclusion.

Randy Holmes Farley has written a very detailed set of articles on ozone specifically for saltwater, which have plenty of information:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-05/rhf/index.php

tnx mate.. read some.. the conclusions are inconclusive.. Lol. Not scientifically proven.

What put me off buying one a few weeks before I wrote this post is the risk to humans. Another Black Hole that no one is sure about.

I'll leave it.. less hassles and wires.

I will continue to read those links cos they are interesting.

[BlazeMalta]

It is hard to find information on the use of ozone in freshwater. I have looked into it as a way to sterilize water because I have access to good river water and would like to use it. As for ozone in a freshwater aquarium... I decided that it was not a good idea, but sorry I can't remember why I reached that conclusion.

Randy Holmes Farley has written a very detailed set of articles on ozone specifically for saltwater, which have plenty of information:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-05/rhf/index.php

tnx mate.. read some.. the conclusions are inconclusive.. Lol. Not scientifically proven.

What put me off buying one a few weeks before I wrote this post is the risk to humans. Another Black Hole that no one is sure about.

I'll leave it.. less hassles and wires.

I will continue to read those links cos they are interesting.

[TheRedSpotted]

Hello Kevin and welcome to SimplyDiscus. Ozone is one thing I am honestly not familiar with. However, I will say that what you are saying it can do sounds somewhat far-fetched.

I can save you some time by telling you that the absolute easiest and cheapest way to keep your tank clean after a BH feeding, is water changes. This of course would mess with your EI (if you currently dry fert dose) weekly dosing cycle and co2.

This is one of the main reasons why you do not often see a fully planted tank w/ full co2 with discus in it. It is a difficult balance but one that can be done if you have a lot of experience. The alternatives are relatively straight forward. Either get adult discus that DON'T require heavy BH feedings, or grow out some juveniles in a bare bottom tank and transfer them over when they are adults.

I confirm also, the best way is doing water changes and choose adult or sub-adult who are less demanding.

You can reach good results without ozon, take a look to my planted tank : http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showth...no-Discus-Tank
No more CO2 just waterchanges and limited ferts.

I used ozon for a pond of 10m3 with some nishikigoi in it.
Even if everything was controled by ORP probes and regulator it ends in weaknessed fishes (auto immune defience) cause no more bacteria to fight due to sterilized water.
To avoid this kind of throwback you have to minimize the use of ozon and program some interruptions to force fishes developping immune system.
It is a bit violent cause you are modifying your parameters suddently which is not good for our pets.

It is also quite complex in terms of technic....shortly : you have to mix and disolve O2 and O3 via a protein skimmer placed in by-pass of your filter. break the remaining disolved O3 with UV lamps. air return need also to be filtered on active coal air filters.
The main risk is having a partial default of an element of your system which could results in non-disolved O3 in your tank. It will burn litteraly your fishes.

Ozon is also a source of cancers for humans. So if you are not experimented or coached by an expert get away.

I think you were talking about a Korean product but not an ozoniser.
I don't know the principle of this system.
But anyway, the highest is the redox potential the fewer water is acidic (increase of OH ions).

In conclusion not recommended for discus

Apologies if my wording is not perfect I'm not american.
kind regards,

[TheRedSpotted]

Sorry I forgot to mention : The results on water clarity is unbelievable. In my pond the water was crystal clear with 15 Nishikigoi of 80cm.
I was able to see a gravel at 2m deep

[BlazeMalta]

I confirm also, the best way is doing water changes and choose adult or sub-adult who are less demanding.

You can reach good results without ozon, take a look to my planted tank : http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showth...no-Discus-Tank
No more CO2 just waterchanges and limited ferts.

I used ozon for a pond of 10m3 with some nishikigoi in it.
Even if everything was controled by ORP probes and regulator it ends in weaknessed fishes (auto immune defience) cause no more bacteria to fight due to sterilized water.
To avoid this kind of throwback you have to minimize the use of ozon and program some interruptions to force fishes developping immune system.
It is a bit violent cause you are modifying your parameters suddently which is not good for our pets.

It is also quite complex in terms of technic....shortly : you have to mix and disolve O2 and O3 via a protein skimmer placed in by-pass of your filter. break the remaining disolved O3 with UV lamps. air return need also to be filtered on active coal air filters.
The main risk is having a partial default of an element of your system which could results in non-disolved O3 in your tank. It will burn litteraly your fishes.

Ozon is also a source of cancers for humans. So if you are not experimented or coached by an expert get away.

I think you were talking about a Korean product but not an ozoniser.
I don't know the principle of this system.
But anyway, the highest is the redox potential the fewer water is acidic (increase of OH ions).

In conclusion not recommended for discus

Apologies if my wording is not perfect I'm not american.
kind regards,

Speechless regarding your set-up. I personally think that nothing is nicer then a planted Discus tank and it is worth the challenge. I read the whole thread mate, from start to finish.

Since it is a risk to humans I will stay away from it.. I don't want anything happening to my wife and living the rest of my life blaming myself.

I will go through your thread again and see the plant species you have to get some for myself. I just upgraded from a 160L to ma 240L (the discus needed the extra height) and I am waiting for my plants to re-establish themselves again.

Im from Malta.. not that far from you.

Thanks for the O3 advice and helping such an amateur like me.. -Well done.
-Kev.

[BlazeMalta]

I confirm also, the best way is doing water changes and choose adult or sub-adult who are less demanding.

You can reach good results without ozon, take a look to my planted tank : http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showth...no-Discus-Tank
No more CO2 just waterchanges and limited ferts.

I used ozon for a pond of 10m3 with some nishikigoi in it.
Even if everything was controled by ORP probes and regulator it ends in weaknessed fishes (auto immune defience) cause no more bacteria to fight due to sterilized water.
To avoid this kind of throwback you have to minimize the use of ozon and program some interruptions to force fishes developping immune system.
It is a bit violent cause you are modifying your parameters suddently which is not good for our pets.

It is also quite complex in terms of technic....shortly : you have to mix and disolve O2 and O3 via a protein skimmer placed in by-pass of your filter. break the remaining disolved O3 with UV lamps. air return need also to be filtered on active coal air filters.
The main risk is having a partial default of an element of your system which could results in non-disolved O3 in your tank. It will burn litteraly your fishes.

Ozon is also a source of cancers for humans. So if you are not experimented or coached by an expert get away.

I think you were talking about a Korean product but not an ozoniser.
I don't know the principle of this system.
But anyway, the highest is the redox potential the fewer water is acidic (increase of OH ions).

In conclusion not recommended for discus

Apologies if my wording is not perfect I'm not american.
kind regards,

A big Well done for your set-up.. I'm speechless. You prove it can be done and that one done right it's beautiful.

I will not risk the ozone then, especially if a risk to humans... keep it up and I read that thread from start to finish.