ChicagoDiscus.com     Cafepress Store

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 54

Thread: DIY automatic water changing system

  1. #16
    Registered Member nc0gnet0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Posts
    8,054
    Real Name
    Rick

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    Quote Originally Posted by LoGeek View Post
    You have some good points but I wonder if it brings the safety level down, which is of great concern to me, without seriously cutting costs or complexity. Questions:
    - Why don't you like timers on fill side but consider them ok for drain side?
    For the drain side, you have no other options really.


    - If only float switches control the filling solenoids, then the filling will start as soon as the water level starts sinking? Not very efficient use of water.
    Not true, depends on how you set up the float, and what kind of float it is.


    - Your set up gives me four solenoids instead of two in order to get rid of a pump?
    your setup does not take into account the pump might fail. Gravity never fails, not unless you plan on launching your fish tank into space. It also sits on the bottom of the tank, so if you have a malfunction, it could technically drain the tank nearly dry. A drain line/hole in the middle of the tank will insure the water volume never drops below the drain hole.


    - My biggest concern is limeting the amount of water that can leak into the house. With your set up the filling will always open when there's a low water level. That means that a leak for example in the drain bulk heads or the tank will cause the filling to start. The amount of water that will enter my house if I'm not home is then unlimited! With my proposed set up the filling amount is set by two independent timers that need to open at the same time, and filling can never occur if not. The chance of a large water leak in the drain is also limited since I have no drilled hole other than at the maximum water level.
    overflow tube prevents tank overfill. Granted, a cracked or leaking tank would be a potential problem. Both systems are equally subject to leaky fill lines. I am not sure if I agree with your assessment of one being more prone to water damage then the other, as with all autofill systems, they do carry more risk. I would prefer not only to design a system on making it the least likely to flood the place as possible, but rather design it in such a way that if/when such a leak occurs, the leaked water is dealt with. This might require different tank placement and a different water source.

    Thanks for helping me out and challenging my ideas! That's what hopefully will give me a reliable system in time!
    Just an fyi, I don't own such a system, but I do have an automated RO system that fills 450 gallons of water to storage vessels (and is heated) before it is shut off. The insulated storage tote is outside, and the ro system in in my basement.
    Ex-President-North American Discus Association-NADA
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  2. #17
    Registered Member LoGeek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    374
    Real Name
    Jörgen

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    Thanks for your involvment! You've made me think twice about some things which is great!

    Quote Originally Posted by nc0gnet0 View Post
    Not true, depends on how you set up the float, and what kind of float it is.
    True enough!

    Quote Originally Posted by nc0gnet0 View Post
    your setup does not take into account the pump might fail. Gravity never fails, not unless you plan on launching your fish tank into space. It also sits on the bottom of the tank, so if you have a malfunction, it could technically drain the tank nearly dry. A drain line/hole in the middle of the tank will insure the water volume never drops below the drain hole.
    You're right about gravity
    A malfunction will almost every time mean that the timer or pump stops working. The solenoids will open and fill for some minutes and it will just overflow. But if the pump/timer, against all odds, would run crazy and not stop pumping then the tank would drain completely and the fish die. Sad of course, but still no water in my house.

    Quote Originally Posted by nc0gnet0 View Post
    Both systems are equally subject to leaky fill lines. I am not sure if I agree with your assessment of one being more prone to water damage then the other, as with all autofill systems, they do carry more risk.
    Ok, I don't think we agree on this one. The water volume in the tank is a risk coupled with every aquarium. The big difference with an automatic system is that you have the possibility of an unlimited water volume flowing into the house (as with all other water pipes in the house, except the insurance company don't like DIYs). Since this unlimited volume is solely in the fill line, then I think that's where the reduntant safety measures should be. In my set up that's two normally closed solenoids very close to the water source, plus the float valve. Even if a fitting in the fill line blows off it will most likely be behind closed solenoids except during filling.

  3. #18
    Registered Member LoGeek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    374
    Real Name
    Jörgen

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    Can someone recommend a reliable hose as fill line for the tank? The pressure will be fairly low since I'll have pressure regulating valves installed.

    All PVC hoses I can find here that are glueable have too large diameter. Is reinforced PVC pressure tubing for compressed air ok? They are sold in the right sizes.

    Another option is soft copper tubing preinsulated with thin plastic. Seems flexible enough for my application.
    Last edited by LoGeek; 10-17-2016 at 06:36 PM.

  4. #19
    Homesteader Altum Nut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario
    Posts
    3,139
    Real Name
    Ralph

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    You can use PVC electrical conduit pipe that come in various dia....http://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrica...vZbohlZ1z0usnc

    ...Ralph
    "Success comes from knowing that you did your best to become the best that you are capable of becoming."
    -John Wooden

  5. #20
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    290

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    [QUOTE=LoGeek;1235072]Can someone recommend a reliable hose as fill line for the tank? The pressure will be fairly low since I'll have pressure regulating valves installed.

    All PVC hoses I can find here that are glueable have too large diameter. Is reinforced PVC pressure tubing for compressed air ok? They are sold in the right sizes.


    Low pressure line? Have you considered using typical aquarium/pond clear {or black} vinyl tubing generally used for canister filters,sumps,etc? It is relatively inexpensive,easy to terminate, flexible,and seamless end to end.Here in the USA LEE's is a popular high quality brand sold at most local stores and Amazon.Good luck with the project.

  6. #21
    Registered Member LoGeek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    374
    Real Name
    Jörgen

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    Yes I've considered vinyl tubing, and it's an option. It just seems easier to kink and have less durable fittings in case the pressure would increase by accident.

    I only need a 10 mm tubing so right now I'm considering just going with regular RO-tubing. But I'm not sure which fitting to go with for plastic tubing.

    What's the most reliable one?
    - Push fit?
    - Brass compression fitting?
    - Barbed fit with clamp?

    imagesR2WNTDD3.jpguntitled.pnguntitled2.png

  7. #22
    Registered Member nc0gnet0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Posts
    8,054
    Real Name
    Rick

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    compression, but get the inserts for the tubing that go into the hose so it doesn't get crushed. RO tubing comes in different sizes than your typical 1/4" too, might want to try 3/8".
    Ex-President-North American Discus Association-NADA
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  8. #23
    Registered Member LoGeek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    374
    Real Name
    Jörgen

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    Quote Originally Posted by nc0gnet0 View Post
    compression, but get the inserts for the tubing that go into the hose so it doesn't get crushed. RO tubing comes in different sizes than your typical 1/4" too, might want to try 3/8".
    Yes, 3/8 would be perfect.

    Just to be sure, do you mean regular copper pipe compression fittings with olive and pipe insert? Like this:
    2h0RM.jpg

    Copper or plastic olive?

    I've been reading on a renowned tubing manufacturer's website (John Guest) and they recommend plastic push fit "speed fittings" for their tubes (LLDPE tubing). Maybe they are right or maybe they just want to sell their own fittings...
    Last edited by LoGeek; 10-19-2016 at 02:02 PM.

  9. #24
    Registered Member LoGeek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    374
    Real Name
    Jörgen

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    All parts have been ordered except the bulkhead and pvc pipes.

    I need some help understanding bulkhead installation. I would like a bulkhead with a pipe thread on the outside of the tank, so that the pipes outside can be easily removed if necessary.

    The most common over here are these, but I can't figure out what side goes in the tank and if there's a thread on the outside. Or are both threads for the nuts only?

    http://www.aquaristikshop.com/aquari...thread/190430/

    http://www.aquaristikshop.com/aquari...spigot/190420/

    http://www.aquaristikshop.com/aquari...ng-nut/190410/

  10. #25
    Registered Member Hart24601's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    500

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    This thread explains it well. You can install bulkheads either way, but the rubber gasket is the key. Always on the water side (inside the tank). Threaded fittings thread internally on bulkheads, the big threaded part is for the bulkhead nut. It's a bit hard to tell with those linked, never used them before, but the idea is the same.


    http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ins...ad-tips.34973/
    Last edited by Hart24601; 10-29-2016 at 10:16 AM.

  11. #26
    Registered Member LoGeek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    374
    Real Name
    Jörgen

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    Thanks.

    I understand the basics but all sites here have such lacking information that I can't figure out if they have a female thread or not. I've contacted a few now however.

    But you are saying that the orientation does not matter as long as the gasket is on the proper side? In that case it's enough if I can find a bulkhead with one female thread, and I'll just orient it to the dry side of the tank?

    This also looks really convenient. I guess it's a pvc compression fitting? But are they as reliable as threaded?

    http://www.aquaristikshop.com/aquari...ng-nut/190410/

  12. #27
    Registered Member Hart24601's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    500

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    Correct, bulkheads can go either side, just make sure rubber gasket is never on the nut side even if that is outside of the tank.

    I have only used threaded bulkheads with non hardening thread sealant. Other than that I use PVC glue and slip fittings.

  13. #28
    Registered Member LoGeek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    374
    Real Name
    Jörgen

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    Most of the parts I need for this project have arrived and finally all the fun can begin. I picked up a new Juwel Rio 400 yesterday, which my discus will probably love. The 10 of them have stayed in a Juwel Lido 120 way too long now, even though they are healthy and growing.

    Today I've rebuilt a wall that was too narrow for the tank, and have assembled the Rio 400 SBX stand. Boy is it a sturdy piece of furniture! By far the best quality stand I've owned so far. Max load is 1200 kg.

    The feet/pads are not adjustable however. What do you guys use under them to get the tank leveled?

  14. #29
    Registered Member LoGeek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    374
    Real Name
    Jörgen

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    Today I started working on my new Juwel Rio 400.

    Here's my 5 year old boy removing the Juwel filter box with some fishing line:
    2016-12-10 22.49.08.jpg

    My practice attempt with the hole saw was not very successfull. Obviously the glass I tried to drill was tempered...
    2016-12-10 22.48.30.jpg
    Hopefully I'll have better luck with my tank!
    Last edited by LoGeek; 12-10-2016 at 05:58 PM.

  15. #30
    Registered Member LoGeek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    374
    Real Name
    Jörgen

    Default Re: DIY automatic water changing system

    Now I have drilled my first hole. Success! I'm very satisfied with the result.

    I used some tack-it to hold water while drilling. It took about 20 minutes.

    2016-12-10 23.00.28.jpg

    2016-12-10 23.01.10.jpg

    2016-12-10 23.02.14.jpg
    Last edited by LoGeek; 12-10-2016 at 06:35 PM.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Cafepress