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Thread: Getting ready for a discus planted tank

  1. #16
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    Robert

    Default Re: Getting ready for a discus planted tank

    Thank you for sharing! This is very helpful for my setup!

    I actually thought about most of the points myself. With the experience I have gained from planted fresh water tank and reef tank, I can't stop thinking about the requirements for discus and something just connects. But everything was just theory in my head. Your post really gave me confidence about my plan. I will arrange my setup and schedules accordingly.

  2. #17
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    Default Re: Getting ready for a discus planted tank

    Quote Originally Posted by discuspaul View Post
    Your contribution is very worthwhile, SGDiscus. It should be very helpful to some hobbyists wanting to start off with a planted environment.
    I particularly like point #4 above, which I feel is very important.
    I'm a firm believer that careful planning of your total layout, in the way the plants are arranged, spaces allowed between them, and the spaces allowed between them and the sides and back of the tank, should be undertaken to readily allow you to do a proper substrate vacuuming job around and through all the plantings, so that your tank cleansing can be as thorough as possible.

    Thank you Paul. I have learnt lots from your posts too.

  3. #18
    MVP Oct.2015 discuspaul's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ready for a discus planted tank

    Thanks SG - nice of you to say so.

  4. #19
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    Default Re: Getting ready for a discus planted tank

    This is a great post i recently added 6 discus from chicago discus to my planted tank and have been thinking of redoing the substrate with pool filter sand. My question is i currently have the red eco complete substrate and how would i go about switching or would it be best to just add a cap. The plants have been doing well and have made a decent root system in the gravel. The fish seem to be doing well but the dark substrate seems to be making the discus show some darker peppering. All the fish seem to be acting normal and eating well. Last night i had one of them laying eggs on my driftwood while another ate them right away, im not sure if they paired off. The fish are about 4-4.5"

  5. #20
    MVP Oct.2015 discuspaul's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ready for a discus planted tank

    Adding a cap will not effectively accomplish what you think it will.
    Given the fish are acting normal, doing well, and eating just fine, this would seem to be a good time to switch to what you really want to do, and create a better environment for your discus with pool filter sand. (and lessen your peppering situation while you're at it.)
    Just go about it slowly, doing it in stages, as you do your wcs and tank cleansing routine, and it'll be just fine.
    As for the pairing off, if they're in the mood and comfortable, they'll continue to do just that.
    Go for it.

  6. #21
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    Default Re: Getting ready for a discus planted tank

    So just sections at a time then when the water is half full and less particles to float around or would it be better to keep the fish in a bucket for the time being until its done? Tank changes dont freak discus out or does it?
    Im sure the sand will be better for the corys also and protect their fins and barbs.

  7. #22
    Registered Member Ryan925's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ready for a discus planted tank

    Quote Originally Posted by Darb View Post
    So just sections at a time then when the water is half full and less particles to float around or would it be better to keep the fish in a bucket for the time being until its done? Tank changes dont freak discus out or does it?
    Im sure the sand will be better for the corys also and protect their fins and barbs.
    I switched from black eco to sand. I removed the fish and put them in a 30 gallon tote with heater and air stone. I drained the water then shop vacd out the gravel. It was insane how much crap was in it even though I feel vacd it often. I went from 120# eco to 50# sand. After adding the sand I let the filter run for a couple hours then added fish back in
    Im not illiterate...only my phone's auto correct is

  8. #23
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    Default Re: Getting ready for a discus planted tank

    Awesome and the dish and plants didnt mind much I added fert tabs the last time when i planted so figure the same thing applies after the substrate change.

  9. #24
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    Default Re: Getting ready for a discus planted tank

    Also did you notice a difference in your discus with the lighter sand

  10. #25
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    Default Re: Getting ready for a discus planted tank

    Quote Originally Posted by Darb View Post
    Also did you notice a difference in your discus with the lighter sand
    Almost instantly. Not just the PB strains but all of them. Was night and day. Take a look at my tank journal and you will see
    Im not illiterate...only my phone's auto correct is

  11. #26
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    Default Re: Getting ready for a discus planted tank

    Quote Originally Posted by SGDiscus View Post
    I also just started a planted tank with discus not long ago in Feb 2017. I read through Paul's advice - great stuff!

    Thought I share with you a few points from a fellow newbie's perspective when starting a discus tank with plants.

    1. Experience with planted tanks/hi-tech tanks. I have had planted tanks with CO2 for 10 years but never had discus. Planted tanks with CO2 increases the level of difficulty of maintaining a healthy tank for discus. It is possible to increase the safety factor if you are still going down that path but the path will take longer. For example, I started my discus tank with plants way back in Jun 2016 but I did not add in the discus until Feb 2017. The reason for this is for me to get the right balance of lighting, CO2 and fert regime for healthy plants with minimal algae. If you are inexperience with hi-tech setup, the potential of suffering from BBA infestation is very high and that will ruin your plants. (although it has been shown that BBA will also infest low-tech planted tanks for those who are inexperience.) The key point here is - don't introduce too many variables at the same time if you want to have discus.

    2. In my current tank (http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showth...=1#post1255994), I have gone through a deworming regime for my 10 discus. As part of that regime, I have added salt for 48hours to help them adjust. Salt will cause plants to dehydrate as the plants will lose water through osmosis. Plants like crypts and duckweeds did not take the salt very well and they wilted. Plants like amazon swords, anbuias, jungle vals and ferns were not affected. I dose salt at 2 gram per litre. The key point here is - at one point in time, you will need to treat the entire tank for either fluke infestation or fungi etc... you will need to select hardier plants or just be prepared to lose some plants.

    3. Put in the discus last. Think of it this way, the plants and the tankmates for discus are being quarantined in your main tank. You want to make sure that these are treated to your best of your ability and dewormed before introducing the discus.

    4. Think of planted tank as a tank with planted layout. For example, 80% of my plants are anbuias and ferns that are tied to wood and coconut husks that can be shifted easily without disturbing the substrate (I use inert sand). This allows me to do maintenance work (siphoning the sand for waste etc) and also inspect to crevices for BBA. The key point here is to make sure that you have a planted layout that makes it easy for you to carry out maintenance so that you can maintain pristine water quality for the discus.

    5. Sump tank. In the planted tank communities, many of them are of the view that sump tanks will lead to a loss in CO2 for hi-tech setup. In my humble opinion, this is a fine balance between healthy plants and management of wastage. Healthy plants will help to improve water quality (by reducing nitrates) but on the other hand, unhealthy plants will only worse water quality by contributing waste organics through dead/decaying plant matter. But for me a sump tank increases the safety margin for you due to a larger volume of water and contains BB that helps remove ammonia and nitrites. But there are some cons you have to take note of. Beside higher loss of CO2, one would also need to take care of medication regime that could wipe out the BB in the sump. If that happens, then you have to be prepared to do daily water changes until the BB establishes themselves back into the media. I like sump over canisters because I use beefheart which in turns create more organic waste. A sump tank allows me to change out the filter wool more easily than a canister and reduces the organic waste in the water.

    6. Use of duck weeds or similar floating plants. I like them because they absorb nitrates readily from the water through their roots and they also provide shade from the overhead lights. They also provide a source of food for the discus.... because my discus loves to nibble at them.

    7. Quarantine. This will save you heartache. Even plants need to be quarantine. They should be soaked in either hydrogen peroxide or potassium permangate to minimise fungi/algae spores.

    Hope this helps!
    Thank you very much for this post. I am in a similar position as the OP - I acquired an 80 gallon tank and have sterilized, cleaned, drilled, and am prepping it to be a planted show tank for some discus. I'm not in any rush, as acquiring all the equipment, getting the plumbing done, tank cleaned and prepped, etc. has cost a lot more than anticipated. So if I have to wait a few months before getting the fish, so be it.

    Based on your post, it looks like I should get my tank set up, plant it, and then get my CO2 and fertilization levels steady (will be using pressurized CO2 with an in-line atomizer) steady, then start cycling/growing the BB by adding ammonia, then add the fish? For filtration, I'll be running a Fluval FX4 (connected to a UV sterilizer) as well as the Eshopps RS-100 sump (growing Wisteria in the middle compartment) and the CO2 atomizer will be on the return line from the sump.

    I also appreciate Paul's advice - I'm jumping into the deep end, I realize, but am willing to take it slow. Any other suggestions? Thanks!

  12. #27
    Registered Member rightwinger59's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ready for a discus planted tank

    Quote Originally Posted by SGDiscus View Post
    I also just started a planted tank with discus not long ago in Feb 2017. I read through Paul's advice - great stuff!

    Thought I share with you a few points from a fellow newbie's perspective when starting a discus tank with plants.

    1. Experience with planted tanks/hi-tech tanks. I have had planted tanks with CO2 for 10 years but never had discus. Planted tanks with CO2 increases the level of difficulty of maintaining a healthy tank for discus. It is possible to increase the safety factor if you are still going down that path but the path will take longer. For example, I started my discus tank with plants way back in Jun 2016 but I did not add in the discus until Feb 2017. The reason for this is for me to get the right balance of lighting, CO2 and fert regime for healthy plants with minimal algae. If you are inexperience with hi-tech setup, the potential of suffering from BBA infestation is very high and that will ruin your plants. (although it has been shown that BBA will also infest low-tech planted tanks for those who are inexperience.) The key point here is - don't introduce too many variables at the same time if you want to have discus.

    2. In my current tank (http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showth...=1#post1255994), I have gone through a deworming regime for my 10 discus. As part of that regime, I have added salt for 48hours to help them adjust. Salt will cause plants to dehydrate as the plants will lose water through osmosis. Plants like crypts and duckweeds did not take the salt very well and they wilted. Plants like amazon swords, anbuias, jungle vals and ferns were not affected. I dose salt at 2 gram per litre. The key point here is - at one point in time, you will need to treat the entire tank for either fluke infestation or fungi etc... you will need to select hardier plants or just be prepared to lose some plants.

    3. Put in the discus last. Think of it this way, the plants and the tankmates for discus are being quarantined in your main tank. You want to make sure that these are treated to your best of your ability and dewormed before introducing the discus.

    4. Think of planted tank as a tank with planted layout. For example, 80% of my plants are anbuias and ferns that are tied to wood and coconut husks that can be shifted easily without disturbing the substrate (I use inert sand). This allows me to do maintenance work (siphoning the sand for waste etc) and also inspect to crevices for BBA. The key point here is to make sure that you have a planted layout that makes it easy for you to carry out maintenance so that you can maintain pristine water quality for the discus.

    5. Sump tank. In the planted tank communities, many of them are of the view that sump tanks will lead to a loss in CO2 for hi-tech setup. In my humble opinion, this is a fine balance between healthy plants and management of wastage. Healthy plants will help to improve water quality (by reducing nitrates) but on the other hand, unhealthy plants will only worse water quality by contributing waste organics through dead/decaying plant matter. But for me a sump tank increases the safety margin for you due to a larger volume of water and contains BB that helps remove ammonia and nitrites. But there are some cons you have to take note of. Beside higher loss of CO2, one would also need to take care of medication regime that could wipe out the BB in the sump. If that happens, then you have to be prepared to do daily water changes until the BB establishes themselves back into the media. I like sump over canisters because I use beefheart which in turns create more organic waste. A sump tank allows me to change out the filter wool more easily than a canister and reduces the organic waste in the water.

    6. Use of duck weeds or similar floating plants. I like them because they absorb nitrates readily from the water through their roots and they also provide shade from the overhead lights. They also provide a source of food for the discus.... because my discus loves to nibble at them.

    7. Quarantine. This will save you heartache. Even plants need to be quarantine. They should be soaked in either hydrogen peroxide or potassium permangate to minimise fungi/algae spores.

    Hope this helps!
    This was an extremely helpful post, as were Paul's posts above.

    I am in the same position as the OP - looking to set up a planted discus show tank in an 80 gallon tank that I recently acquired. I have spent the last few weeks cleaning the tank and the stand, drilling it, and plumbing and am almost ready to set it up. I will be using pool filter sand as a substrate, and have got some driftwood coming. No plants ordered yet. My filtration will be both a Fluval FX4 (splurged on this because I believe it is going to help me do water changes more smoothly) along with an Eshopps RS-100 sump, which will be growing wisteria in Miracle Mud 2 in the middle compartment (first compartment using 300 micron sock).

    Based on your advice, SGDiscus, sounds like I should plan on just playing around with my CO2 and fertilizer levels before starting to introduce fish into the tank. I'm fine with this - willing to spend as much time as needed to get the plants right and the biological filter set up properly before introducing any fish. I plan on using pressurized CO2 and an inline atomizer (installed in the return line from the sump, as that is plumbed 3/4" and the atomizer is 5/8"), so once I get the tank installed it sounds like I should just plan on growing plants for a while, get that all squared away, and then start cycling with ammonia and monitoring my ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels?

    Any other thoughts? Thanks!

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