I don't have an answer, just a few thoughts.
When you put an extra filter into an established tank it gets seeded, so it has a head start over a sterile filter, but the number of beneficial bacteria won't be very high, at least in the short term. The main established filter will continue doing the bulk of the work. When you move the seeded filter to another tank it needs to build up capacity. But I would still expect the mini-cycle to spike nitrite at some point since the nitrite-consuming bacteria are said to multiply slower. I'm not sure why you didn't see it.
If there is chloramine in your tap water, Prime breaks it up and the ammonia component remains. You can test chloraminated tap water with an API ammonia test and it will show the ammonia. Its not a "false positive" unless you are expecting the Prime to up and make the ammonia vanish. It doesn't vanish, it just gets bound by the Prime into a non-toxic form, and the test still shows it, especially right after a big WC. Chloramine, if you have it, increases the amount of ammonia the filter has to handle - beyond what the fish produce. Same with any water that contains ammonia. Prime changes the nature of the ammonia, it doesn't change the testing of it when the test is a salicylate test like API.I finally assumed it was the Prime leading to the reading since I was using it to detoxify the ammonia between WC
The Seachem ammonia alert is really sluggish at your pH. It only registers NH3 and at pH 6.7 only 1/300th of the total ammonia is in the NH3 form. That means the alert won't show any hint of ammonia until the total ammonia gets to about 6 ppm, long after a cycle problem has started. The higher your pH, the more alert the alert becomes.I also have had a Seachem Ammonia Alert in for a couple weeks that never reads other than yellow. Either the Prime is doing it's job or the low pH is keeping the Ammonia in ionized form.