@Adam i have a RO/DI unit that i could possibly bypass the DI !!
Would that work ?
Doesn't really matter, but most of us put conditioner in before/as the new water is going in.
For inline chlorine treatment, you need something like this (https://www.amazon.com/iSpring-WGB21.../dp/B01F9A4UVU). The one I linked is ridiculously overpriced, but it's the only picture I could find. You may have to buy the parts and put it together yourself.
@Adam i have a RO/DI unit that i could possibly bypass the DI !!
Would that work ?
Definitely, but bypass the RO filter too. You just want the sediment filter and carbon block.
The only advantage to buying or building a separate one is getting to use 1/2" tubing and fittings instead of 1/4". In your case, it's not really an advantage if you're setting it up for drip.
Happy with that ......now thinking
1/ remove RO Media from the cannister
2/ remove DI media.
so water will still pass through the cannister without media, assuming the pressure will increase dramitically ?
thinking TDS meter will now show higher numbers ?
drain water to desired level
turn tap on walk away ! (have tap working on float for auto stop)
NO conditioner required ??
is my thinking out of wack ?
Hi Lou
When I did water changes I would add the chlorine water conditioner first, then add the tap water. If you get a python it's easy to add a thermometer to the hose and get the temp just right as you add water to the tank. I've done 80% changes with no issue using that method.
That said I haven't done a water change in years since converting to a drip. And yes my drip passes thru a pre-filter, the previously mentioned sediment and carbon block. The kind used in a kitchen application for ice and drinking water.
Mama Bear
Lou, make sure you have a trap on the drain line.
Hi Harry,
Yes already done !!
Brother inlaw is a plumber so that helped lol