Hi Nate, other then trying to tighten that bulkhead I have no other idea. Sorry this is happening.
Pat
So I need some advice. I have a 120 gal discus tank with a drilled bottom for my overflow. I caused a leak in the fitting for my overflow where the bulkhead screws together at the bottom of the tank. I tried everything I could think of to tighten the nut and although I slowed the leak there is still a drip. There isn't enough space where the bulkhead screws together to get good access for tightening any further. Does anyone have a proven method of sealing a leak like that that doesnt require breaking down the tank?
Hi Nate, other then trying to tighten that bulkhead I have no other idea. Sorry this is happening.
Pat
Your discus are talking to you....are you listening
Sorry to hear about that, Nate. Is the bulkhead behind a corner/tower overflow? If so, you should be able to work on it without having to drain the tank. I would not suggest tightening too much, as you risk breaking the bulkhead or the glass. If a 1/4 or 1/2 turn past hand tight doesn't stop the leak, something is wrong with the seal. Does the gasket seem okay?
Access to the nut is limited. I had to wedge an 18" pry bar between the wood hole cut in the stand and the nut while my 16 year old son twisted the 1.5" pvc pipe that is coming down from the threaded part of the bulkhead. My overflow is not the corner variety. It is a 1.5" pvc pipe. Im not worried it is too tight. Gasket is good I just cannot increase the pressure against it. Wondered about using epoxy that can be applied under water. Would that work? Anyone have experience applying a submersible epoxy?
Hello Nate454 -- What caused the leak in the first place? That may guide people to a solution. I have no experience with underwater epoxy.
Best of Luck.
Richard
The leak started because I tapped into the drain for another tank and the movement caused a break in the seal. For now I installed a 1 1/2" to 2" adapter under the drain to catch the drips, but would love to solve the problem. Thank you for posting.
120 Discus Show Tank / 125 Grow Out Tank / Fish Room (almost) Under Construction
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If that's the case it wasn't a very strong seal in the first place. You need to be able to get to the fitting easily enough to feel if it's correctly tightened. Please tell me again why this is not possible.
Mama Bear
Hi Liz - Not possible because the cabinet is half the width of the aquarium width due to the fact the cabinet is part of the foot board for the bed. The space is so tight it was hard to tighten even before I installed everything, and it has been leak free since I filled it 4 months ago until now. I realize what the issue is and have tightened it as tight as I can get it with the limited access. The good news it is only a single drip every 2-4 seconds (I know that isn't great, but it was pouring down initially after I jarred it). My thought was to try using a marine submersible epoxy on the bottom of the fitting to try and stop the leak totally, but at this point I may just leave it. The leak is dripping into the drain and I change 50% of the water daily anyway. I just wanted to reach out to you all on the forum to see if anyone has experience with any form of underwater epoxy. Thank you for all your help!
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You might be able to see how small the space is I have to work within by looking at the top of the picture. Just the front half is the cabinet space. The other half is part of the bed.
120 Discus Show Tank / 125 Grow Out Tank / Fish Room (almost) Under Construction
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I understand now. I sure do hope that it keeps to just a small drip.
Mama Bear
Can you take a pic of the bulkhead and attached plumbing?
Is the bulkhead slip or threaded?
Hi slickest - I'm at work today so can't get you a pic until tomorrow. The bulkhead is slip for the 1 1/2" pvc overflow and drain. The bulkhead itself is threaded so theoretically it can be tightened. Due to limited space that is difficult.
120 Discus Show Tank / 125 Grow Out Tank / Fish Room (almost) Under Construction
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If you can't get enough torque on the nut to turn it, can the pipe below be disconnected or cut so that you can turn the pipe and bulkhead? You'd still need to get a little pressure on the nut to keep it from turning but it usually only takes about 1/4 turn. Then you can reconnect or couple the cut pipe. I'd advise to do this gingerly as you are working with plastic.
I've learned to strap my drain to the cabinet to keep this from happening during maintenance or alterations.
Yes slicksta, the pipe was cut and the use of a crow bar was needed to keep the nut from turning...that's how I was able to diminish a significant leak down to a slow drip. But all the pressure and force my son and I could apply could not stop the leak completely. Tomorrow when I get off work I will check to see if the leak has subsided. My current band-aide using the 1 1/2" to 2" adapter may be the trick not only for catching any leaks, but also for making sure no pressure is applied to the fitting during the aforementioned maintenance or alterations. I may leave everything as is at this point...is there a downside to this as long as the leak is making it to the drain and it is a slow leak?
120 Discus Show Tank / 125 Grow Out Tank / Fish Room (almost) Under Construction
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If you have applied that much force, sounds like the gasket is deformed. For piece of mind you'll want to replace the bulkhead. There's also a chance that the bulkhead has a hairline crack, though that is usually a problem with threaded bulkheads.
In order to determine whether you can get by for a while, you really need to be sure what is the fault.
I've used flex glue with good results. It could be toxic but this is outside the tank. The guy on tv says all there products do anything possible. Wow!!! but i've had good luck.