I bet its the KH test that is bad. Are you using a paper strip test for KH? They are notoriously inaccurate.
I bet its the KH test that is bad. Are you using a paper strip test for KH? They are notoriously inaccurate.
Last edited by fljones3; 02-01-2019 at 03:12 PM.
An occasional pinch of baking soda is one way to solve the problem. Its easier if you have a pinpoint pH monitor, but they aren't cheap. You glance at the pH and if its getting near 6 you add a pinch of baking soda at the back corner of the tank, and you can see the pH go up within 5 minutes. It doesn't seem to bother the fish but best to do it in small increments.
I have a 125 gal SA tank with 6 red shoulder serverums and 9 geophagus and are big eaters.In order for me to keep decent study ph about 6.4-6.8 in that tank I feed the tank once a day with 1/4 tsp. of backing soda when I do the first feeding.This seems a lot better than letting it drop out of sight with my kit.In another 75 gal tank I have 1/2 cup of crushed coral in a nylon bag in my filter and that works for that tank.My water is soft from the lake and the city uses sodium hydroxide to bring the ph up to 7.4.Not peroxide that was previously mentioned.I need to age my water for large WC's.It depletes quickly because of low carbon hardness (KH).Each time you feed you fish and waste is produced it's using up some of that carbon hardness;that's how you get ph crashes.
Thanks Mervin. I mentioned the peroxide. I probably remembered that wrong. NaOH makes sense. I think the peroxide is used as a disinfectant sometimes.
I filled a spare 20 gallon and put in a sponge filter for an acting airstone. Tap PH was 7.0. After 24 hours roughly PH 6.5. Same after roughly 48 hours.
My 75, I have been adding about 1/16 tsp of baking soda in the morning. Same after a 50% WC. PH has been constant at 6.5.
Question is, what's causing the PH drop? Does Ammonia, Nitrite, or Nitrates affect PH? My experience is, no. Prime doesn't. Sponge filters shouldn't. Poly filter pad shouldn't. At a loss here, but something is going on. I am very thankful that the PH is steady at 6.5. It's restoring my beneficial bacteria. WC stress has gone down a lot.
Your water was soft in KH and your water company may added something to bring the ph up so will not corrode metal pipes.KH and PH go hand in hand,so to speak.
Here's a good understanding of PH.https://extension.usu.edu/waterquali...cations/pH.pdf
Do you have city water?
This is from the City of Richmond public utilities website from 2016:
"Over the years, DPU has upgraded its systems to ensure proper chemical doses. There will also be a new calcium hydroxide system going into service in the next two months to better control the pH of the finished water. DPU monitors the pH of the water with online equipment that provides instantaneous results, and also runs tests twice a day to verify proper chemical dosage."
http://cordpu.blogspot.com/2016/02/d...-lead-out.html
Calcium hydroxide raises the pH above 7 and keeps the pH higher in the pipes. Then the pH goes down after the water is exposed to the atmosphere. Increasing pH to prevent lead contamination has become common in cities where they use surface water, which tends to have a lower pH than groundwater.
Thanks for taking the time to look. I am actually under Chesterfield water system. I am searching their webpage but so far empty. However, it would make sense for them to possibly follow the city of Richmond.
I did find this.
https://www.chesterfield.gov/Documen...ort-PDF?bidId=
Last edited by fljones3; 02-04-2019 at 11:47 AM.
OK. Finally found a statement.
"The natural water’s pH can vary, so the pH or acidity of the water is controlled at the treatment plant using lime to make sure that corrosion control treatment works properly and the water coming out of your tap is consistent. The pH in our distribution system ranges from 7.0 to 8.0 pH units, which is in the neutral range."
So, lime is added.
Slaked lime is calcium hydroxide, so its the same process as Richmond.