Seems to be getting worse, getting worried

[fljones3]

I will do 2 capfuls as I know its safe to overdose to an extent.

But why the tank directly? And how specifically? Put 1 cap while water halfway and another once its full?

As Pat said. I add directly the whole dose just prior to filling the tank from my aging barrel. You are not even close to overdosing according to Seachem.

BTW, I dose the whole tank not just the water I am replacing.

[Shan_Evolved]

Update - bad news.

I just got home so this is all just fresh. I just did the WC.


__________


Got home and as I suspected, the cobalt with the spot that wasn't eating and losing color from last night was dead. This makes it 24h from having the spot to death. Attached are pictures for diagnosis or any sort of confirmation on the reason why.

85211235_628980061211864_3552284450278604800_n.jpg
87938623_570746356862807_8461157110095282176_n.jpg

Previous white spot 48h ago
metro2.jpg

I guess he must have been dead awhile because on his sores, it seemed like they became fungus. They had some fuzz on them that you can't really see out of water. On the second pic you can see how the white spot enlarged. What could it be? Still hex?

Also here is a short video of the rest of the group. I tried feeding them FDBW but they are ignoring it save for a select few that always take a bite or two.




_______

I did a 60% WC, dosed 2 caps prime, and added 400mg/gal metro. I will re dose later this evening.

I am happy the ones still alive seem to be doing well, but I am worried they might die within 24h like my silver pigeon yesterday.

[danotaylor]

That sucks mate. I'm sorry this is happening. I wish I knew how to correct what's happening for ya

[Sturiosoma]

Update - bad news.

I just got home so this is all just fresh. I just did the WC.


__________


Got home and as I suspected, the cobalt with the spot that wasn't eating and losing color from last night was dead. This makes it 24h from having the spot to death. Attached are pictures for diagnosis or any sort of confirmation on the reason why.

85211235_628980061211864_3552284450278604800_n.jpg
87938623_570746356862807_8461157110095282176_n.jpg

Previous white spot 48h ago
metro2.jpg

I guess he must have been dead awhile because on his sores, it seemed like they became fungus. They had some fuzz on them that you can't really see out of water. On the second pic you can see how the white spot enlarged. What could it be? Still hex?

Also here is a short video of the rest of the group. I tried feeding them FDBW but they are ignoring it save for a select few that always take a bite or two.




_______

I did a 60% WC, dosed 2 caps prime, and added 400mg/gal metro. I will re dose later this evening.

I am happy the ones still alive seem to be doing well, but I am worried they might die within 24h like my silver pigeon yesterday.

Just a few more thoughts here first off when you put in your new sponge was it already seeded and several things that can happen with a large water change would be a pH crash I'm seeing a difference from your aging barrel to your tank whether it's enough to cause a problem maybe and you can also lose your cycle which I believe you have and anytime you add meds to your tank they will also knock down your beneficial bacteria so I would cut back to a 50% change increase aeration since you've raised your temp and read your prime dosing instructions carefully as they do not recommend higher doses if you're temp are above 86* and lastly dose your prime for total tank volume as Willie said not just water replaced, you have to try and get your cycle back

Jeanne

[Shan_Evolved]

PH really isn't that much different from tap to barrel to tank from my eyesight. If anything ph is a bit higher after being in my tank for 24h. But negligable like 7.0-7.2.

Even if I had had a ph crash or Ammonia poisoning or something like that, isn't my previous daily huge water changes the solution to that??


My new sponge was not seeded, but the old one I haven't touched is still in there. Also they haven't been eating so barely any poop so barely any waste buildup

[Shan_Evolved]

PH really isn't that much different from tap to barrel to tank from my eyesight. If anything ph is a bit higher after being in my tank for 24h. But negligable like 7.0-7.2.

Even if I had had a ph crash or Ammonia poisoning or something like that, isn't my previous daily huge water changes the solution to that??


My new sponge was not seeded, but the old one I haven't touched is still in there. Also they haven't been eating so barely any poop so barely any waste buildup.

And thanks Dano. I'll be patient and hope they start eating after the metro and heat medication

[fljones3]

I am so sorry.

Someone can correct me but if it's bacteria then the temps should be lowered. I have had successful Metro at 86F before.
Maybe someone with more experience can comment but I still think a possible PH situation (as Jeanne). You could stop feeding for several days. Do a 50% every other day. If you do this, keep on top of your water parameters as I would speculate a ammonia increase (which you can keep under control with Prime). Stretching out the WC (no feeding, and much smaller WC) will hold off any PH crash situations.

[LizStreithorst]

I am so sorry.

Someone can correct me but if it's bacteria then the temps should be lowered. I have had successful Metro at 86F before.
Maybe someone with more experience can comment but I still think a possible PH situation (as Jeanne). You could stop feeding for several days. Do a 50% every other day. If you do this, keep on top of your water parameters as I would speculate a ammonia increase (which you can keep under control with Prime). Stretching out the WC (no feeding, and much smaller WC) will hold off any PH crash situations.

You have some good ideas here, Frank. The high temps are not needed. The Metro will still work. Go back to your normal dose. The blue started out as showing nothing but a little Discus pimple and that fat fish is now dead. It might be bacterial. But I would do as Pat suggested for WC.

[jeep]

I'm thinking the hex is a secondary issue. There's no way hex spreads this fast and is this lethal. I'm leaning towards a water relate issue. I'm wondering if filtering through a carbon block is in order???

[Shan_Evolved]

Ahh. So should I lower the temp from 92? To what 84? Are we sure about this?

I was able to take this video a second ago from my big silver pigeon.

How do I tackle this bacterial issue?

[TonySimm]

I may be wrong but the picture of the cobalt looks like a burn of some sort wit exposed meat. This could have happened after death but when the fish aren't eating I would doubt it was getting ate on. That seems pretty quick to lose that much outer skin.

I'm by no means a pro like some of the folks here are but just an observation.

[Shan_Evolved]

Burn as in tank is too hot? So is the consensus saying I should lower the temp back down to 84? It's been at 92 for almost four days

[abijitr]

I went through both your threads and I couldn’t find a thing that could contaminate your system or infect. It is so weird but true since it’s happening. Here’s a suggestion from Kenny that has worked wonders for me:
- get potassium permanganate (PP) from any hardware store. It’s usually crystal or powder form.
- get hydrogen peroxide and disposable gloves from a pharmacy store or Walmart
- wear gloves, Pour a spoon or two of PP into an empty water bottle, fill it with water and shake well. It will turn into a dark purple solution. This is your stock solution.
- remove yourself filtration system or stop the flow and lock it so PP doesn’t enter your filtration system
- turn the lights off
- pour the stock PP solution you prepared little by little into the tank. Water will start turning light purple to pinkish and then brown. Brown just means that it’s working
- wait for 30 mins. If you see fish acting weird, immediately pour 2-3 caps of hydrogen peroxide - it will instantly neutralize PP
- if not, repeat the process after 30 mins. You can carry this on up to 8 times or 4 hours in total as long as the water is turning brown. If the water stops turning brown you don’t need to add PP anymore. It’s time to add hydrogen peroxide to neutralize and change water

Keep in mind that, PP is extremely powerful and it works wonders but you have to take it slow, use caution and MUST have hydrogen peroxide to neutralize.

Hope this helps.

[TonySimm]

I would think more along the lines of a chemical burn or something in the water. Then again would more fish be affected if that was case? Or was the white spot where it was starting and expanded once it got through?

Hopefully someone can expand but that looks odd for regular fish decomposition in that period of time. I've never seen the outer skin removed to that level in that period of time.

[abijitr]

& yes, lower the temp to 85-86