You should be fine if you age and do some from the tap. Any tank should be able to handle 25-30% WC from the tap. There is still enough O2 in the aerated water. Yes about the PH, depending on your water supply. Pumps make it a lot easier.
Hi Everyone - So in my 125g, I typically do at least a 50% (between 50%-75%) water change daily... Sometimes I will do every other day water changes of 75%, but mostly do daily water changes.
If I purchase an aging barrel, lets say 40-50 gallons and I start aging/aerating that water for 24 hours prior to doing my water change, does this mess with the pH of the water in the barrel at all? Does it change anything at all in that water aside from removing the gas bubbles?
Next, if I take out 70 gallons of water during my water change - add 40-50 gallons back from the aging barrel and then the other 20-30 gallons from my tap, does this defeat the purpose of an aging barrel? Or is adding 20-30 gallons from the tap perfectly fine?
This is my first time looking into it - so any helpful info that you think I should know would be greatly appreciated!
PS- I should also mention that my pH out of the tap is 6.8.
KH - 2
GH - 5
Last edited by Acerrato; 04-16-2020 at 09:11 AM.
You should be fine if you age and do some from the tap. Any tank should be able to handle 25-30% WC from the tap. There is still enough O2 in the aerated water. Yes about the PH, depending on your water supply. Pumps make it a lot easier.
Has there been a problem with the tap water? Best way to check the ph is test before and after. Did you put a air pump(bubbler) in the storage tank?
24 hours of aging does a few things. First it clears any supersaturated gasses which can happen as the system is under pressure. This avoids the risk of microbubbles. Also if there is over saturation of CO2 then that is also cleared raising the Ph of the stored water. Better the Ph should stabilize prior to being added to the tank. Occasionally the Ph will drop with aging, not sure what would cause that but regardless, you want to reach equilibrium prior to addition to the tank. Also tap water can be depleted of O2 which will be addressed with aging and aeration. Risks of the above all increase when more than 25-30% water changed is directly from tap so even if you are only aging part of your water that is a good thing. Even if you are having no problems at present that is no guarantee of no issues in the future.
Heating the water to tank temperature probably does a lot more for gas supersaturation than 24 hours of aging.
My tap water comes out at 120% oxygen saturation.
Different suppliers add different things to their water , Most are used two fold ; first to control bacteria [chlorine/ chloramine] ,next is to protect their pipes from the water they supply [CO2 or O2]
Planted tank keepers long ago proved that pH changes from the 'saturation ' of O2 or CO2 actually have no real effect on pH and thus there really is no 'swing' in pH regardless of you test reading ..
Normal planted tank keepers change their pH 1 whole point every morning and then again every evening with out having any adverse effect on fish by adding and then stopping the addition of CO2 .
So IMO aging water helps with micro bubbles which in my experience is a winter issue only where I am and helps those who can't accurately control the temp of water from their tap .
Now lets remember what works for one is not guaranteed to work for others and everyones water is different as I see it .Even your neighbor has different water as their plumbing may be different [copper pipes versus PEX or PVC] ..I use tap water for the most part but do age water also ..In the winter I am reluctant to use 100% tap on tanks as there is usually microbubbles ..In the summer there are no microbubbles so tap is fine and has never proven to cause on single issue in my grow out ,fry or breeding tanks .
My water does not need to age 24 hours as I am only looking to reduce /remove the microbubbles ..
I do think if you have only one tank that aging is better but also believe whole heartedly as a person with 60 tanks it is not needed in most cases .
The micro bubbles is what I was most concerned about... When I do those larger changes (75%), the tank is usually covered in them and the water filled with them... I wipe them away as best as I can but they usually all disappear within the hour... The fish are usually swimming around and eating just fine within minutes of me finishing a large water change.
Hi Amanda
You are spot on about doing large water changes straight from the tap, though its a bit of work to have it stored in a barrel on hand, especially if you're not getting ph swings from straight tap water. I was in a similar situation, but my biggest issues was the temp' change from doing large water changes straight from the tap, as i didn't like using hot water.
My situation here in Australia may be different to yours, but my local breeder advised me to only do smaller 30% water changes,to not alter the tank temp by more than 2 degrees C, which has worked out for me, and still achieved the desired results with my grow outs.
We're here for a good time...not a long time
"Planted tank keepers long ago proved that pH changes from the 'saturation ' of O2 or CO2 actually have no real effect on pH and thus there really is no 'swing' in pH regardless of you test reading ..
Normal planted tank keepers change their pH 1 whole point every morning and then again every evening with out having any adverse effect on fish by adding and then stopping the addition of CO2 ."
Not sure what you are trying to say here. Most using CO2 reduce or stop the flow of CO2 at night specifically to reduce the variance of pH, as plants become net CO2 producers rather than consumers in the dark, and to my understanding automatic CO2 flow controllers are specifically based on the measured pH. I have read that fish are less sensitive to H+ concentration variance due to CO2 concentration changes vs other acid sources but find this puzzling as why the conjugate base would make a difference (e.g. HCO3- vs Cl-) is beyond me. If anyone can explain, please do.
Since plants use oxygen at night and produce CO2: it would make senses to turn off the CO2 due to higher concentrations of CO2 at night due to the plants and injection both.