Need help from Tom

[LizStreithorst]

I hope you have the patience to help me with this, Tom. I got my RO upgrade kit yesterday and I was going to install it today, but my unit is different from the one in the BRS video and I'm confused.

I know that my product water is coming from the white tubing rather than the blue tubing that BRS uses. Why I'm confused is is that on the bottom I have a regurlar sediment filter, followed by a GAC filter, and finally a carbon filter. My DI filter that I have no use for and would love to just throw away is on the top in a small canister. I've only had the unit for a short time and you can see how much the damn worthless thing is exhausted.

For some reason RO systems, that are very straight forward and easy to figure out have confused me. Would you be kind and tell a person who feels stupid what color tubes go where?

Also, my water pressure which used to be over 65 has dropped to just over 60 so I may need to buy a booster pump. I don't know why the pressure dropped, it just did.

Here's a pic of my unit.

[RogueDiscus]

Maybe Tom can help, but I have found the BRS folks try to help pretty well if you email them. You bought their upgrade kit, I bet they'd help. I actually have the same upgrade kit and a pressure pump. Never taken the step to set it all up.

[LizStreithorst]

If Tom doesn't help, I'll email BRS. I hate to because I didn't buy the RO unit itself from them but your right, I bought the upgrade did from them.

[jeep]

That's strange. Usually the tap line is clear or black, the prefiltered water from the carbon block to the membrane is red, the exhaust line is black and the RO line is blue. I see you have an ASOV which may add to your confusion. It's not needed unless you are filling a storage tank for drinking water. Here's a basic diagram with the ASOV.

asov.jpg

[coralbandit]

Without getting complicated the waste line from your original TFC should get hooked up to the second TFC. Then the good from that should be connected with a Y to the first TFC good water and sent to the DI or storage .You are simply placing it in-between your first TFC and what ever is next .All waste comes out the second TFC now and waste from first TFC feeds the second TFC .
DI is the quickest media to be exhausted and often not needed in fresh water IMO.I don't use DI for my fresh water and my water goes from 350 TDS to 15-17TDS .Clearly it would be zero if I sent it through DI but since I just mix my RO with my tap to get the TDS level I want which is over 17 I don't need to waste it .Besides or because the DI media is exhausted the quickest it is the most expensive part of running an RO system.
Often pressure will drop in the unit as filters clog ,I have a built in pressure gauge after my third stage so I can see when the first sediment and carbon filters are eating my pressure and need changing.
Changing the cheapest filters [for me 5 and 1 micron sediments] make the more expensive filters [carbon and the TFC] last and perform better .
I would guess the drop in pressure if not the pump from your well is from a filter being clogged ?
To help me with this I added an extra canister to the front of my unit allow me to have 2 sediment filter before my carbon and TFC.
I know[ and many of you know ] I am overboard with everything but I added the extra canister in front of my 6 stage chloramine deluxe[which means it has 2 carbon filters ] .
So my unit goes 5 micron ,1 micron sediment , 5 micron carbon , 1 micron cat carbon then the two TFCs then dual DI. I installed a T before the DI and placed a shut off on it for the DI so I can skip it or use it [being fed to a separate storage barrel ] when I want for my salt water .So my unit makes 17TDS water for fresh in one barrel and 0 TDS water in another barrel .

[LizStreithorst]

I replaced my first sediment filter just the other day. It was filthy so I had to wait until my extra filters arrived. I'll try replacing the GAC filter next and see if that helps. The problem with my last RO is that I was going through filters so fast that maintaining the unit very costly. I have the same pressure gauge as you. I think that my water must be full of tiny particles. BTW, I'm not on my own well. I get my water from our small community water company.

[coralbandit]

I would start with a 5 micron then a 1 micron sediment .
A 10 inch canister is $16 and the 5 micron filters are $2.99 .
I am on municipal water and found that adding a extra sediment filter to the front end of my unit saved money in the long run .Replacing carbon and lower micron filters definitely adds up .
Even if you had to change the 5 micron monthly it is under $40 a year and could easily cut changing the 1 micron sediment in half if not better ..

[LizStreithorst]

Isn't the GAC filter the same thing as a 1 micron sediment filter? I just looked at my unit and your description of what to do again and it makes my head swim. I feel like a doofus. I've got more garden stuff to do tomorrow that will wear me slam out, but I'll look at it with fresh eyes. The ASOV is the round thing on mine that I never knew why it was there, right? Can I just take it out and throw it away? And the TFC is the membrane, right? At l have the pic I have of it as it is now so if I screw it up at least I'll know how to put it back to the way it is now. I'm sorry I seem like such a moron.

I can rebuild a lawn mower carburator. I've repaired my washing machine and dish washer. I've hard my fish room for both incoming water and air. I don't know why RO whups my arse like it does.

[coralbandit]

Sediment and carbon filters are separate. The sediment are white material placed before the carbon while the carbon may be in a white fabric but is basically carbon.
As I understand the ASOV stops water from running continuously .Without it water will just go out the waste never stopping even when the filter is off if you use a float valve on your storage and leave the unit under constant pressure.If water is not going out the ASOV it will not let water in .It is like a pressure valve opened by releasing the float valve .I will guess if you don't leave your unit under pressure meaning you turn it on and off by its water supply then you probably don't need it ,but don't throw it out keep it in the pile of fish stuff we all have ..
Even though carbon filters have a micron rating you don't want to use them for separating sediment ,that would be wasting the carbon and expensive . It is easier and cheaper to remove sediments before they reach the carbon.That is why I set my self up with 2 sediment before my carbons.
Yea the TFC is the membrane they call it 'Thin Film Composite' and it is really the secret of RO.It takes pressure to force water through it and particles [smaller then one micron] are rejected only allowing the pure water through .The higher the pressure [to a point like 80-90lbs] the cleaner the water you get faster.
I was very intimidated by RO in the beginning and had no clue how it worked [at all] .

[LizStreithorst]

Thanks. You make me feel less stupid. Once I get it done correctly I'll feel almost smart

[LizStreithorst]

This pic is for more help from Tom. I asked him about it in a PM but forgot that I couldn't attach a pic to a PM.

[coralbandit]

Go with the two sediment filters [ 5 micron first then 1 micron ] then a 5 micron carbon and see if your pressure goes back up .

[LizStreithorst]

I saw the canister you pointed me to, but that one has no bracket to attach it to the wall. Those little 1/4" connectors aren't strong enough to hold it, are they?

[coralbandit]

No the 1/4 inch is just to attach your water line to ..
You need to match either 1/4 or 1/2 to your set up .
I am pretty sure you are 1/4 inch ports .
I linked you a wall clip also ..

[LizStreithorst]

I'm 1/4". At least I'm smart enough to know the difference between 1/4 and 1/2". At least I have everything ordered now, but I'll be calling BRS to have them combine my orders