Bad BAD NEWS!

[Thingsarefun]

Vinni,
Really sorry to hear about your tank!
I'm pretty sure the reason its cracking is because it's only 3/8" thick & 30 high (looked at your original thread).

I'll look for the height chart, but I think 3/8 is only good to 24".

[Thingsarefun]

Taken from this site
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ac...on-q-a.224773/

"Display Tank Material Thickness

This general guideline is what James relayed to me as his personal guideline. I believe these are based on Polycast, which is imperial thickness (1" = 1.00") so keep that in mind when using a metric-based material.

For a EUROBRACED tank:
24" high, use 1/2" minimum
30" high, use 3/4" minimum
36" high, use 1" minimum

Eurobrace minimums:
3" perimeter eurobrace on any tank.
6" wide crossbrace for every 24" of tank length.
1.5" radius for all interior corners of the eurobrace cutouts (3" diameter circle). This is very important.

For instance:
A 48" x 24" tank (footprint) will have 3" perimeter eurobrace and a single 6" crossbrace at 24".
A 72" x 24" tank will have 3" perimeter eurobrace and a two 6" crossbraces, one at 24" and one at 48"."

[Vinni Smith]

All that does make good sense, I agree,
All those specs do look good.


But the cracks were in the bottom sheet on the edge.
Very strange.

Also, I was mistaken.
They made my tank out of 1/2"
I had that part wrong.

[LizStreithorst]

Did anyone here think that they are speaking Greek except me? I know that you understand this stuff, Thingsarefun but there are way to many numbers involved for me to get a grasp on it. I know if I were shown I would get it, but numbers make me loose my mind. As long as you and Vinnie get it, that's all that matters.

[Vinni Smith]

Did anyone here think that they are speaking Greek except me? I know that you understand this stuff, Thingsarefun but there are way to many numbers involved for me to get a grasp on it. I know if I were shown I would get it, but numbers make me loose my mind. As long as you and Vinnie get it, that's all that matters.

Here Liz.
I promise no #s
This is the bottom side. The only place the tank cracked.
We are all scratching our heads. It just does not make sense where and how it cracked.
Sure makes me glad I went with a bare bottom!
I would have never seen it if it was covered with gravel.

cracks.jpg

BTW, I did just measure the material again to make sure I am not being stupid.
Yes, 1/2" material all the way around.
In this picture, the tank is turned upside down.
I think I posted that I changed my mind and only did 24" tall.

[peewee1]

All that does make good sense, I agree,
All those specs do look good.


But the cracks were in the bottom sheet on the edge.
Very strange.

Also, I was mistaken.
They made my tank out of 1/2"
I had that part wrong.

For 30 inch height then the thickness would be 3/4 inches. But would not there be more weight at the bottom because of the total pressure of the water as you go deeper?

[LizStreithorst]

That bottom piece must have been cut incorrectly. I've never had an acrylic tank but that is never where glass tanks crack. I guess when something is made to order there is always the chance of a screw up because of all the human work needed. Humans aren't perfect. I'm sure hot. Thanks for showing me rather than making my head spin with numbers.

[Vinni Smith]

For 30 inch height then the thickness would be 3/4 inches. But would not there be more weight at the bottom because of the total pressure of the water as you go deeper?

I decided to go with 24" and not 30".
I am just too short to clean a 30" tank.
Those plans were changed at the last minute.

Also, wouldn't you think it would crack on the side?
The bottom is being supported by the stand.
And the stand is one solid, very flat piece of 3/4" plywood.
Not hollow in the middle like most aquarium stands.

And my biggest question is why did it only crack in a very small area?

I am a bit nervous about trying it again.
However, I called a place that specializes in acrylic tanks and they quoted me $1,700
A bit more than I want to spend.

[Vinni Smith]

That bottom piece must have been cut incorrectly. I've never had an acrylic tank but that is never where glass tanks crack. I guess when something is made to order there is always the chance of a screw up because of all the human work needed. Humans aren't perfect. I'm sure hot. Thanks for showing me rather than making my head spin with numbers.

I agree Liz. It would not be so confusing if it bowed out in the middle and cracked at the top of the side, front or back.

[Thingsarefun]

I decided to go with 24" and not 30".
I am just too short to clean a 30" tank.
Those plans were changed at the last minute.

Also, wouldn't you think it would crack on the side?
The bottom is being supported by the stand.
And the stand is one solid, very flat piece of 3/4" plywood.
Not hollow in the middle like most aquarium stands.

And my biggest question is why did it only crack in a very small area?

I am a bit nervous about trying it again.
However, I called a place that specializes in acrylic tanks and they quoted me $1,700
A bit more than I want to spend.

I'm with you on the 30 inch height I was planning on doing that too, but every time I siphon my 24 I thank thank the stars I didn't do it either... lol

The bottom seams are under the most pressure, but they normally fail due to a bad weld.
Your seams are still intact, so I would think it has to do with either bad material or bowing?

$1700 seems crazy high for a tank that size, but it is custom.

If your up for it you could probably repair it with "Euro bracing" the bottom like this glass one.

euro.jpg

Just cut pieces to fit the edges and glue them in with Weldon 40.

[Vinni Smith]

I'm with you on the 30 inch height I was planning on doing that too, but every time I siphon my 24 I thank thank the stars I didn't do it either... lol

The bottom seams are under the most pressure, but they normally fail due to a bad weld.
Your seams are still intact, so I would think it has to do with either bad material or bowing?

$1700 seems crazy high for a tank that size, but it is custom.

If your up for it you could probably repair it with "Euro bracing" the bottom like this glass one.

euro.jpg

Just cut pieces to fit the edges and glue them in with Weldon 40.

Yeah, they think it was bad material.
The company has already reimbursed them for it.
Very fast with no hassle at all.
Hmmmmm

Good idea about the bracing.
I am probably going to just sell the tank to someone as a reptile home

I think $1,700 is nuts

[LizStreithorst]

Don't sell it. Repair it, test it and store it until you need it. If you are like me, you will become addicted and need it at some point. Just think...it would be 2 big fine tanks for the price of one. If I lived closer to you I would lie to you that I had reptiles and wanted to buy the tank for them and do the job myself. That tank is much to valuable so sell as a home for reptiles.

Mama Bear has spoken.

[peewee1]

Don't sell it. Repair it, test it and store it until you need it. If you are like me, you will become addicted and need it at some point. Just think...it would be 2 big fine tanks for the price of one. If I lived closer to you I would lie to you that I had reptiles and wanted to buy the tank for them and do the job myself. That tank is much to valuable so sell as a home for reptiles.

Mama Bear has spoken.

Vinni has so many fish he is bound to have many future breeding pairs. Keep the tank, section it off, fill it part way full, and use it for a breeding tanks, or even grow out tank or tanks.

[Vinni Smith]

Yeah, sounds like some good advise. I think a trim around the bottom could work too.

If he does not want it back, I just may keep it.

[Iminit]

How’s it going Vinni? When’s the new tank due? Not sure what euro bracing is? But my clear for life tanks are all 24” high and use 3/8 arcylic. 2 90s and a 125. If they let you keep it I would try that bracing. Mark the cracks so you can see if they get bigger. Than fill it up and leave it outside for a month or 2 to see what happens. You can never have enough tanks .