Hello from across the Pond - Need all the advise possible

[Caspian]

Hi Caspian, a few considerations for sumps. Plan on how you will get it into and out of the stand. Also ensure there is enough space between the bottom of the stand and the top of the sump so you can get into and out of the sump for working purposes. Since you are working with about 200 gallons of water I would suggest about 12 discus. I had 12 wilds in my 230 gallon but I do like to give wilds plenty of space.
Pat

Hi Pat

Thank you for advise, you are totally right. My stand will be 90cm high (35inches) and sump is 2/3 of the stand width wise which leaves me a room in front to use.

Discuss numbers, well I have been thinking 10 to 12 since day one just cant make my mind up with colours lol .. Question is what size would be considered adults and why there is so many variation in prices well this is what I am seeing in UK even though they are Stendker

[Caspian]

Ok your idea are good. Yes you can have a semi planted tank with shallow substrate. I’m am doing that now. I put my plants in planters. Makes them easy to remove if meds are needed. As to lighting something I’m using is the hyggar 957 led lights. Not to expensive and fully programable. Thing with your tank is the size. It’s an odd size. Will be very hard to find one light to cover so you will need 2. For 2 you’ll need a brace in the middle. I think your leant is around 78” so probably need 2 36” lights.
Your sump is only 40g? Is that 40g of water in a 75g tank? Or a 40g tank as the sump?
For your gravel/sand substrate black will show your discus darker and may pepper pigeon bloods. White will be brighter. Next sand is hard to clean where a fine gravel will be easier. When vacuuming less gravel than sand will be lost.

Here’s some pics of my flachen snakeskins and one of my tanks.Attachment 132295Attachment 132296Hi Attachment 132297

Hi Tom

Thank you for the heads up, I do like your Flachen Snakeskin blue with awesome patterns. Mate you have a very nice setup I love it, I love you aquascape too. Do you run CO2? do you feed your plant fertilisers?

I never knew about Hyggar thank you its very cool actually I can have 2 or 4 smaller ones and yes tank is an awkward size lol, looking at your lights I also came across these JOYHILL LED Full Spectrum Aquarium Lights, what do you think of them?

Sump is bigger but 40gal is the actual water volume, because water will be sitting 11.8 inches high

How often do you clean your gravel, does look clean I must say. I know what you mean by loosing sand but I really really want to have white sand and I know it will be hard for upkeep

[Caspian]

Question for everyone?

How do most keep their PH steady? What PH they run their tank at? PH rises as night so realistically you do need Co2 to regulate and maintain a balance of PH right?

I have been reading on water quality issues and have started to think of HMA filtering well see If I can get the landlord to agree to install a connection under the sink and I can connect one of these (https://www.finerfilters.co.uk/3-sta...-hozelock.html)

There are people who add a 4th canister with Nitrate remover but not sure how good this is?

Let me know what you think and what you do on your tanks please

[Iminit]

I clean the gravel at every water change. It does collect waste. So that’s twice a week.
As for ph mine is at 7.0. I don’t use co2 or worry about a ph rise at night. When changing water you won’t have to worry about nitrate.

[Caspian]

I clean the gravel at every water change. It does collect waste. So that’s twice a week.
As for ph mine is at 7.0. I don’t use co2 or worry about a ph rise at night. When changing water you won’t have to worry about nitrate.

Thank you, I guess I have to the gravel/sand cleaning on every water change too. Nitrate will be low with keeping the filters clean and water changes of course however I meant the nitrate that comes through the tap water which is around 10ppm

[Iminit]

Nitrate in the tap water can’t be fixed without ro. But 10ppm isn’t bad and with the water changes you should be fine.

[Caspian]

Nitrate in the tap water can’t be fixed without ro. But 10ppm isn’t bad and with the water changes you should be fine.

This is true however people in UK use a product called C3 Nitrate remover (https://countrysideaquaticsfiltratio...nformation.pdf) which some use in their tanks and some use in canister after a HMA Filter. I have seem some people use it in fluidised reactors and have been getting awesome results

[Iminit]

For me I don’t want to add anything into the tank but water. With 10ppm you’ll be fine. Why waste the money on something you don’t need. Nitrate chasing is overrated .

[Caspian]

For me I don’t want to add anything into the tank but water. With 10ppm you’ll be fine. Why waste the money on something you don’t need. Nitrate chasing is overrated .

sorry this is a habit from having a reef tank, I had to have near zero Nitrate to get the colours

[Caspian]

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[LizStreithorst]

We don't have that nitrate removal product in this country as far as I know. The nitrate in my tap water is 0 a problem that I've not had to face. If Discus people swear by it I'd try it. To me a nitrate level of 10 is too much. People say it's OK but I keep mine at 5. If it's not at least 5 it means that the tank is not cycled.

Caspian, I think that you will be a fun member because you are figuring out how to keep the fish happy before you dive in head long. I get depressed people just going for Discus thinking that they are just like other fish. Their first post is always in the disease section. I like watching people figured out what is necessary before they get the fish.

I can't imagine why the price of Stendkers of the same size varies so much. We have only one Stendker dealer in this country. I do know that most every dealer of Asian imports that sell Discus cheap send the worst quality fish you can imagine. I was a mod on BIDKA back years ago before BIDKA changed has. There was a guy there named Mark who was highly though of. I don't remember the name of his business.

[Caspian]

We don't have that nitrate removal product in this country as far as I know. The nitrate in my tap water is 0 a problem that I've not had to face. If Discus people swear by it I'd try it. To me a nitrate level of 10 is too much. People say it's OK but I keep mine at 5. If it's not at least 5 it means that the tank is not cycled.

Caspian, I think that you will be a fun member because you are figuring out how to keep the fish happy before you dive in head long. I get depressed people just going for Discus thinking that they are just like other fish. Their first post is always in the disease section. I like watching people figured out what is necessary before they get the fish.

I can't imagine why the price of Stendkers of the same size varies so much. We have only one Stendker dealer in this country. I do know that most every dealer of Asian imports that sell Discus cheap send the worst quality fish you can imagine. I was a mod on BIDKA back years ago before BIDKA changed has. There was a guy there named Mark who was highly though of. I don't remember the name of his business.

Hi

Thank you I can only try, Its only a real hobby when you learn everything there is about it. However with nature you might think you know it all but still it is not enough!

I do believe Nitrate is important to the health of the fish and plants specially if plan is to keep them up to their maximum life span. You are incredibly lucky not having Nitrate in your tap water, we do here which is annoying because without filtration you be adding hence the shock to the system and as resilient the fish might be it is a stock on every water change. I am planning to use a HMA filter if I get the tap connections done (Landlord is just being funny even though I offered to pay and purchased all the fittings )

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[Caspian]

We don't have that nitrate removal product in this country as far as I know. The nitrate in my tap water is 0 a problem that I've not had to face. If Discus people swear by it I'd try it. To me a nitrate level of 10 is too much. People say it's OK but I keep mine at 5. If it's not at least 5 it means that the tank is not cycled.

Caspian, I think that you will be a fun member because you are figuring out how to keep the fish happy before you dive in head long. I get depressed people just going for Discus thinking that they are just like other fish. Their first post is always in the disease section. I like watching people figured out what is necessary before they get the fish.

I can't imagine why the price of Stendkers of the same size varies so much. We have only one Stendker dealer in this country. I do know that most every dealer of Asian imports that sell Discus cheap send the worst quality fish you can imagine. I was a mod on BIDKA back years ago before BIDKA changed has. There was a guy there named Mark who was highly though of. I don't remember the name of his business.

I will post results or my findings as we go along. I believe it will work and plan to have it in a fluidised reactor , also planning to send email to the manufacturer in regards to fluidised reactor , if it works then I can easily feed the fish heavily. We do have Polyfilters that do more or less the same but C3 can be regenerated. I tried many methods on my reef tank to keep the nitrates near zero to keep all that fish with hard corals was a challenge with all being successful as its based on feeding beneficial bacteria. The best was having a nitrate reactor and feeding it vodka but not sure how it will work on freshwater!

IMG_0279.jpg

Apparently HMA filters all heavy metals, chlorine and chloramines as well as balances the PH ( need to find out what balancing PH means here lol)

Furthermore I will be using Sachem Purigen to clear the water column of any organic material and keep water clear and I see a lot of positive reviews on this product and helps specially when we can not use Carbon on our discus tanks. Purigen will also be fluidised but not sure if I can mix with the nitrate remover!

[Caspian]

I am still searching on PH balance on Discus tank and its proving hard to find the right info. in the nature they do not have PH fluctuation unless the have rain water which also promotes breeding that goes along with slight temp change however surely in our tanks we are faced with PH fluctuation, not so much with bare bottom tanks whom don't have any plants but planted tanks with substrate there will be, bacteria feed on oxygen that effects ph, plants photosynthesis effect the PH and also aeration rises the PH and then you have Drift wood in a big tank there would be a big chunk that would lower the PH. Hence why I think there must be a CO2 addition with controller to keep the PH in a balance level which I would keep it at 7 or 7.2

Need to find out what it means with HMA balancing PH as tap water does not have a balanced PH and fluctuate time to time and as recently learned due to winter also.

most of you would not have much issue as you do age your waters or even using a well water helps out immensely.