Need some help with my KH

[Charlyc11]

I use water directly from my well.
API Test Kit
TDS 190
PH No aging = 5.5
PH after 24 Hrs. aging = 7.3
Ca =20 PPM
Ammonia = 0
Phosphate = 0
Iron = 0
GH = 6
KH = 0 one drop light yellow second test Kit same

I have a Nutrafin Master Test Kit that I will confirm all later today. Then again I been testing my well water a zillion times.

[bluelagoon]

I wonder if your well water is cold and when it warms up to the air it releases the CO2 and increases the PH.

[Charlyc11]

I though I had the problem solved with crushed coral in the tanks but here comes an emergency like treating the marlboros for HEXA. I did a large water change after the first dose of metro and a few hours later I looked at them saw that the were breathing heavy so I checked the ph and it was crashing. Needless to say the ph was ok in the holding tank 7.40 and 7.3 in the fish tank. I slowly added some baking soda to stop the downfall got it up a little and hopefully it will continue to adjust as the crushed coral does the job. Smaller water changes on the other tanks no problem so far but a 75% water change for the metro treatment not so good. I added some coral to the holding tanks in the hope the starting low 5.4 ph will dissolve enough to stabilize. Last resort would be to go RO and remineralize. If anybody has a go way to do that please let me know or a proven recipe of the shelf or DIY.

Just looked at the and they are still breathing heavy maybe some epson salt would help?

Update:
Just ran a full workup of the water and it seems I lastly cycle on that tank after the water change and adding metro or when the PH crashed. High on nitrites that why they where in distress. I added some prime and I have some nitrite pads but I don't know if that will interfere with the metro or cycle even more. Any suggestions?

[bluelagoon]

Just one thing, if you think it's a nitrite issue. Sodium chloride for nitrite poisoning would be better than magnesium sulfate.

[Charlyc11]

I did a water change this morning and the nitrites when down to almost zero along with the ammonia and nitrate. It went back up some later on. I been dosing with prime to detoxify and I been adding stability and waiting for my delivery of Fritz turbo start to get a real boost on the cycle. So far they started eating and I saw some normal poop. I am into the third day of metro so tomorrow they will get another large water change.

[Charlyc11]

Just one thing, if you think it's a nitrite issue. Sodium chloride for nitrite poisoning would be better than magnesium sulfate.

I don't think it was nitrite poisonings since I was starting to treat for Hexa when the PH crashed and went into a mini cycle and the nitrites shot up. It looks like it's recovering from the mini cycle almost no nitrites and 0 ammonia yesterday but still dosing with prime. Today I should receive my order of FrizZime Turbo Start so I can make an add and make sure the tank gets cycled. We will see I never used the product but heard good things about it.

[Charlyc11]

Today I got my FritzZime turbo start and after a 70% water change I added the 2 oz needed for my tank. I hope it does what it's suppose to do that stuff is very concentrated. It clouded my tank for at least an hour but now it's clearing up. They look happy

[Charlyc11]

I kinda resolved the KH issue by doing a few things. Crushed coral in the tanks and in the aging barrels. But beside that I buffer the aging barrel when I fill with Seachem alkaline buffer and after aging with acid buffer to zero in on 7.3 and a KH of 3-4. So far so good but time will tell. That's with water from my well no RO. I did try RO but that's more work for the same results.

[bluelagoon]

Not sure if I'm reading your post correctly. Are you using both alkaline and acid buffers?

[Charlyc11]

Not sure if I'm reading your post correctly. Are you using both alkaline and acid buffers?

Yes that's how you can target the PH you want I am trying to achieve in the area of 7.3ish with a KH of at least 3 and after aging with the Alkaline buffers it sits on 7.9ish . That's per Seachem instructions. I haven't been able to just use the Alkaline alone but still trying. If I don't buffer my water the PH will crash at the tank.
I am going for that PH target so I don't deviate to much from what they been exposed to. Might eventfully leave it at that higher PH but will need to raise it slowly. Just time will tell how consistent the alkaline only buffer is.

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[LizStreithorst]

Does it list the ingredients?

[bluelagoon]

Get rid of the acid puffer if using an alkaline buffer. You won't get it stable that way. It's bouncing around too much. Does the containers say to use both; if so I've just learned something new after 50 years of fish keeping.

[Charlyc11]

Does it list the ingredients?

Just what you see

[jeep]

Get rid of the acid puffer if using an alkaline buffer. You won't get it stable that way. It's bouncing around too much. Does the containers say to use both; if so I've just learned something new after 50 years of fish keeping.

I agree with this. The goal is ph stability, not a certain number. I know discus keepers who have stabile ph in the mid 6's. Mine is 8.3.

[Charlyc11]

I agree with this. The goal is ph stability, not a certain number. I know discus keepers who have stabile ph in the mid 6's. Mine is 8.3.

My problem is KH not PH I have zero. Am I better of with a KH+ product instead of a alkaline buffer? Suggestions?