building 2x4 tank racks

[limige]

posted a question in mike wells post but i figure we might as well open a seperate post to discuss rack construction!!

now my question was, is i necessary to double up the front and rear boards of a 2x4x10? it will have two feet located 3.5 feet apart.

[Smokey]

Limige:
To answer your question, I will share some personal expierences.
* 1 - DO NOT SCRIMP ON THE 2 X 4'S .
* 2 - build the verticale ends and centre supports, and let the shelfs be supported by them.
* 3 - Cover the shelves with 3/8 or 1/2" plywood. This will give you extra strength and capacity.
* 4 - the shelves should have stringers every 12 - 16" on center.
* 5 - use High quality wood screws and bolts.
Sure the rack may cost $60.00 to $75.00; however; just remember what it is SUPPORTING.
GOOD LUCK
keep track of the number of fingers on each hand !

Smokey

[midnight1]

limige - if it is the same question as on daah - here is my answer.

#1 - the top needs to be roughly 13" wide - not 12" (my 55's are 12 3/4" wide).

#2 - the vertical 2x4's need to be directly under your top 2x4-10ft. not bolted through the side. this is easiest done by using 2 - 2x4's vertical one below and one on the side or by notching 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" out of the vertical 2x4 for the horizontal 2x4 to rest in/on.

#3 - the corners of the tank are where the weight is so yes 1- 2x4 would be adequate as long as your vertical is very close to the edge of the tank. i'm guessing you need at least 48 1/2" clear down below for the 65 gallon to fit.

#4 - with a 10 ft rack you would get 2-48 1/2" spaces and one 17" space clear on the bottom. (120" - (4 x 1.2" + 2 x 48.5&quot = 17" and 120" of tank space on the top

#5 - this stand should be on concrete and not on a floor unless you can verify where the verticals will rest in relation to your floor joists and what size and span the floor joists have so that they can be verified to be able to support that point load from the stand.

good luck

paul meier - p.e.

[Chris-C]

Paul can you post a picture if its not to much trouble

Chris

[midnight1]

chris - i haven't built my stands yet but just know the mechanics behind building one. i'll try to download a tankstand diagram i drew up of what this rack would look like - hopefully i do this right

paul

[midnight1]

image quality sucked on the last one - lets try this again

paul

[midnight1]

sorry guys - i think i have it right this time

paul

[Jason]

try converting the pic to a jpg. file first

[midnight1]

not sure how to convert a BMG file to a JPG file. i did get it to work all you have to do is click on "tankstand2.bmg" at the bottom of my last post and a picture/drawing should come up.

paul

[Denny]

paul

the design looks good, the 65 g tanks are 36 1/2" so if you were to split the lower area into 3 equal openings, you should be righ on the money

denny

[midnight1]

actually my design i'm going to use will be slightly different since my rack will hold 4 - 55 gallons on the top and 12-29's on the bottom - but basically the same principle. i'm also going to use a solid member across the bottom that will rest directly on the floor since i don't want point loads from the rack directly on my floor but instead spread out.

paul

[Smokey]

midnight1; Howdy, I hope you do not mind if I suggest a few ideas .
I have had the pleasure of building tanks racks for quite a few of my customers; both steel and wood !

First -

. i'm also going to use a solid member across the bottom that will rest directly on the floor since i don't want point loads from the rack directly on my floor but instead spread ou

I do not think that this will be necessary. However, it is a good idea if you unsure of the floor . BE sure to seal all wood/floor contact surfaces.. otherwise moisture may accumulate..= " ROT".

From your draft.. I see you are only running timber on the perimeter (120 inch lenghts). Might I suggest running a third timber , on center. This third timber will help carry the weight load, and dramactlly strenthin / stabilize the entire rack. ...just a suggestion; Rather than building " 1 " extremely long tank rack; 4 x 36"( 55G.L.=36), = 144 inches plus trim spacing. What do you think of building 2, (two) seperate racks ? Benifit- ease of moving, stabilizing, positioning.

I would also suggest 3/8 or 1/2 inch plywood., as a shelf material. The plywood, fastened to the timbers will give you a nice flat, smooth secure surface; and strengthen the entire rack.

JMO...

Smokey

[midnight1]

hi smokey - i should have clarified what i was doing. this whole rack is actually going to be fastened to the rear wall of my future fish room - thus mobility is of no concern and my wall will brace this whole contraption (yes i will have horizontals @ the end of the tank locations on the top rack - i should have drawn some in on that picture). my previous rack that i had at my duplex i left the 2x4's without a plywood cap and just ran cork around the perimeter - i'll probably do that again. the solid front is because i framed up my concrete basement floor with 2x4 floor framing because my house was built in 1906 and the basement floor wasn't poured at one time and thus didn't line up in height with one another and actually i still had some dirt floor. the wood floor made it warmer and level. i'm not worried about rotting because i'll use a micro-lam and even though it isn't treated it'll last my life time in this house and thus my fish rooms lifetime - this isn't my final house. my house i want to build will have a fish room on the first floor or second floor (not the basement). my dream is to have a precast concrete floor and then build in a fish tank wall that would be 15 ft +/- long by 3 ft wide by 2 ft deep at about 3 ft off the floor level with smaller tanks below - i know a dream but i think this one will happen (it might actually look like a solarium once i'm done with the design). i'm actually thinking of scaling my room now down to only 2 walls of tanks and take out the double middle island - i'll lose 8 - 55's and 24 - 29's but oh well - it'll give me more room to watch my fish and then i'll be able to see all my tanks at once. you and anyone else is always welcome to "butt in" as you say. i'll post my final floor plan to my room before i build it - the room is only 2 1/2 years under construction right now buuuuut the engineer/builders house is always the last to be worked on -thanks.

paul

[Smokey]

midnight1;
Thank you for the detailed reply. It explains exaxtly what will develop.
Yes; being a fabricator, I understand the need for lots of thinking and drafts. and rethinking !!!!!!!!.
Like you mentioned, the tank racks are to be built to last for a very long time; a very long time.
Remember the old saying.... measure twice, then think of what you are doing; then measure again ... lol.
Mos of my fabrication, design, and building has been primiarly with steel and glass; I studied Architectual Tech. in college;....... B.C.... before computers!!!!!
Sounds like you have been giving this setup alot of thought.

Good Luck
get me posted..( I love new ideas!)

Smokey

[hunterbeav]

Made this stand out of 2x4's no plans just slaped it together.